fiestaturbo.com

[jdfiesta]

looking good ian, thats the inlet that i'm looking for, can i ask where you got it from, for how much, and what model it's off.
thanks
JJ

[Captain Tightpants]

Looks good mate,

Glad you decided against welding that cast manifold.

Interpro are my local 'tuners', god bless those prices!!

Steve

[heeman10]

I wish you very good luck with the turbo-to-radiator clearance using that adaptor plate Ian, it's huge Hope all goes ok when you offer it all up, fingers crossed for ya

[ianFRST]

I wish you very good luck with the turbo-to-radiator clearance using that adaptor plate Ian, it's huge Hope all goes ok when you offer it all up, fingers crossed for ya

gona have a trial fit later. yeah wish me look, been looking at a fair few t3 converted pics, even on my old fiesta, and it looks as tho the standard rad can go back alot further than i have pushed this rad back. and this is as far as mine will go not looking forward to it.

if it donw work, then a custom slam panel like s1's i reckon

[Dazza]

Ian if it helps, remove the bonnet latch as this should give you more room (Use bonnet pins) - This is what am going to do, any extra mm counts!

[Mikee_RS]

i have a stage 3 t3 turbo on my zetec and i have cut away the bonnet latch so my pace rad sits as far forward as poss and i have bonnet pins and STILL cant really get my fingers inbetween the rad and actuator

[ianFRST]

**update** 26.2.06

well i tired to have a go at fitting the adapter plate yesterday came across problems as ever

a)the bolts they sent me were about an inch too long, so i havnt actually properly fitted it yet. need to get some shorter ones tomorrow
b)i need to drill and tap a hole in the head as 1 (the bottom left) dont line up by about 2cm

had to take a bit off here to clear something on the head



the ports line up ok



altho its going to have about 2 mmm taken off each of the right had side on each port so it lines up better.
its actually perfect match on the manifold

and this is the gap between the turbo and rad its the width of your finger. so about the same as every other t3 conversion i think



still having major problems with my inlet aswell lee @ fusion did another trial hose for me. still dont fit





i also wanted to refit my bonnet yesterday so i can have a go at fitting the bonnet pins, but 1) a stud snapped in the actual bonnet, and 2) ford have given me the wrong bolts, they dont have washers on. so off to ford again tomorrow

my freshly powder coated bonnet hinges

[heeman10]

The outer rim of the actuator (the usual problem spot) is pretty close there Ian, a bit closer than I'd want it anyway. All depends on your gearbox mounts, but I'm sure you'll have VT Comp mounts in there anyway, so you should scrape through ok. That inlet's a bloody nightmare!!

[FezzR]

how about welding directly onto the throttle body?
not sure what that would be like to do mind you, an arse id expect

[Pez]

Maybe you could have a flange welded on to the throttle body and the inlet pipe so you could bolt the two together rather than having to join with a hose?

[ianFRST]

yeah thats where the problem is, it needs to have a good 10mm for the hose to join onto it

thought about welding aswell, but what if i need to get to the throttle body butterfly or something. and also thought about bolting it, but then its not going to be air tight it is

ah i dunno what to do

[FiL_FeZ]

that is lookin absoloutly awsome loon

im in the process of get ready for my 2.0ZT

what inlet manifold u using?, ive got the 620 turbo one, just to know if im goin to have the same problems

anyway keep up the good work loon

[FezzR]

can get to the butterfly by unbolting the body from the manifold

best solution though has got to be to take the manifold off and either sell and get another modded or re-mod that one

[disc]

That adapter plate sucks!
I've made one by myself:

[jdfiesta]

can get to the butterfly by unbolting the body from the manifold

best solution though has got to be to take the manifold off and either sell and get another modded or re-mod that one

what manifold is it? thats what i'm after for mine
JJ

[FezzR]

or get a 90degree bend with a nice smooth ratius, with a flange to bolt directly to the manifold and then the tb to the other end, so it would sit to the right of the block about half way down

[ianFRST]

disc - very nice this aint exactly a bodge job one, its made by interpro

ian - again yes, if i could get it modded like dannyboys i would love to. and it woould work excellently.

ive actually decided to get a custom brake res made up by lee @ fusion, he has done me a price about £20 more expensive than having a custon silicone hose made up, so i cant really refuse a custom ally brake res and i just cant justify a £45 silicone hose

JJ - its a rover m16 inlet, from a rover 820 non turbo. bit harder to get hold of than the other turbo versions

[Excursion]

Take off that inlet and get it sorted properly Ian, it's a compromise however you manage it whilst leaving the TB in that position. Bends made from straight cut tube are killers for slow, especially one as tight as that.

[jdfiesta]

JJ - its a rover m16 inlet, from a rover 820 non turbo. bit harder to get hold of than the other turbo versions

thank ya muchly fella. will look around for one.
JJ

[ianFRST]

**2.3.06**

right, i think ive found a solution to the clearance issue. lee told me to modify my current plastic reservoir, then send it to him, and he will make me one from stainless steel

i figured if i cut the left hand side off, it would give me more room, but as soon as i removed the res, i realised that where the holes are underneath, where it goes into the cylinder, they are offsided to the right.

so if i moved the holes as far left as possible, i think it will give me room as below


lee is also gona make me some pipes so my hoses meet



i also managed to bolt the adapter plate on properly. and then inturn trial fitted the turbo again this is just a stage1 t3. and look how close the actuator is im gona be fooked when i get my new turbo when its run in



i also realised why you have to remove the bonnet catch today aswell

i was doing well not damaging my radiator and intercooler till today. spanked the catch right into it not damaged it too bad but still annoying



got my oils for the gearbox, 4L fully synthetic sikolene silktran SYN 5 (recommended by quaife), and the 2x5L running in oil. 5w30 semi synthetic (100%mineral oil) not the cheapest that all cost me about 100 quid

[FezzR]

reservoir looks like ideal positioning, hope your not getting charged much, recon it will be the first of many you'll see on ZT's. almost as the remote location idea.

@ rad
@ oil (from oilman i take it?)

[Excursion]

That turbo is too close mate, DO NOT run it like that!

[ianFRST]

ian - yeah oil man

mark - yeah i know. im in the s**t to say the least. radiator WILL NOT go any further forwad (dam me for getting the largest rad pro alloy do ) so im thinking i need to make a custom actuator braket for the turbo

[heeman10]

Ian - I'm really sorry for saying this, but I need to, and you're not on MSN! We've had a few ZT conversions on this site now, and a few of these issues have cropped up before and been remedied/re-done to clear them up. StreetDragster did the whole head-to-exhaust manifold adaptor plate thing, and highlighted just what a nuisance it was, cutting down clearance between the turbo and the rad. It's been said a lot of times that the radiator can only be shunted so far forward, so a thick core can't be used. I had my turbo-to-radiator clearance problem, so remedied it as best I could with my custom actuator bracket. You need to pick a route, and go for it now. You could waste a huge chunk of money and time trying half-hearted things at this stage.

I think it's too late in the day to be taking the head off to modify it for the exhaust manifold, and I'm not sure how willing you'd be to go up to Lee to make up an actuator bracket I think you'll need a slimmer radiator and an actuator bracket to clear all this up. Am I right in thinking Pro Alloy's big cores are 50mm at the mo, as opposed to the 43mm smaller cores? That 7mm, plus the smallish amount you can gain from a different actuator bracket should just about see you clear for this turbo. I wish I could be less annoying and more helpful, but you need to make strong, problem-solving decisions now, rather than a few attempts that might work. What about shaving 2mm or so off the adaptor plate and 1 or 2mm off the exhaust manifold? I can't remember how much material is there now, but it's going to be all about 1mm here, 1mm there to get everything to clear. Feel sorry for you dude, but it's definitely still got the makings of a sweet conversion. Don't give up!

P.S. The last bottle of engine oil I bought was £40 for 5 litres, it sucks!

[ianFRST]

cheers jim.

im gona try and see if i can get a new bracket made up, and tuck the actuator housing under the turbo like you have done. ill also try and cut more of the front slam panel aswell so i can get a few more mm that way. its gona look gash, but i dont care i might even try a custom slam panel like pauls

ABSOLUTE last resort, is taking the head off and sending it to IH and getting it drilled and tapped but i dont think it will come to that

[STOKE7UP]

custom slam panel time mate
at least you then may be able to mount it abit more on the vertical if there is space too ????

just a thought

[FezzR]

cut the slam pannel out. such and easy mod to do

[Dazza]

Ian, I cant see that well from the pics but what about tilting the radiator by spacing the bolts? Just a thought.

[ianFRST]

the grs cooler is as far forward as possible, so inturn, with the fan on the radiator, its flush up against the back of the radiator. so im 99.9% sure that even if i had a custom slam panel made, the radiator wont go any further forward due to the intercooler

ive got excursion on the case with a new actuator bracket

[Xr_Dub]

Good progress so far


My turbo runs very close to the rad aswell i just got strong mounts plus im going to put a foam bit btw it just in case.. just to cushion it.

[xrsi]

could you not try rotating the res through 180deg?

would be cheaper than having one made!

but out of interest how much would a stainless one be?

[ianFRST]

tries it james. a) it would'nt fit, because the front is longer than the back, so when turned around, the front hits the servo, and b) it would look w@nk

he is doing me a brake res a bit cheaper than usual as im having quite a few bits made for me. i think its about 80 on his website for a brake res. but he making me one from scratch with my requirements

[xrsi]

was just a thought ian

yeah i looked into auto specialists doing me one up from scratch and even if i got enought interest to have a couple done it would have been £150ish, so £80 aint too bad at all. May have to get one made up soonish, depends on funds and what else i decide has higher priority at the time.

[ianFRST]

[rich_frst]

hi ian,

looking good mate

whats for sale???