Detailed Obsession - Detailing Group Buys MORE ADDED PAGE 8!
Okay mate, just let me know when you're ready.
For the benefit of everyone:
The Two Bucket Method.
You should have two buckets, not one, for washing your car. Ideally, use clear ones from B&Q, as these enable you to see the water getting dirty. One bucket should contain your suds; the other, just clean water.
You load up the wash mitt in the suds bucket, and wash one panel of the car. Once it is done, place the mitt into the second, water bucket, and remove all the used suds and any dirt, grime, etc.
Then re-load it in the suds bucket and continue your wash. This method helps prevent swirling, by stopping you washing the car with dirty water, and stopping grit etc from getting placed into the clean suds bucket. This method must be used in conjunction with a lambs wool mitt, and a drying towel, as their pile helps draw contaminants away from the surface.
Gareth
For the benefit of everyone:
The Two Bucket Method.
You should have two buckets, not one, for washing your car. Ideally, use clear ones from B&Q, as these enable you to see the water getting dirty. One bucket should contain your suds; the other, just clean water.
You load up the wash mitt in the suds bucket, and wash one panel of the car. Once it is done, place the mitt into the second, water bucket, and remove all the used suds and any dirt, grime, etc.
Then re-load it in the suds bucket and continue your wash. This method helps prevent swirling, by stopping you washing the car with dirty water, and stopping grit etc from getting placed into the clean suds bucket. This method must be used in conjunction with a lambs wool mitt, and a drying towel, as their pile helps draw contaminants away from the surface.
Gareth
- Gaz7
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Gaz7 :Superal - yes, i've got a range of things that may be able to help you. Do i take it you mean swirling, or actual scratches? Both will be a little tricky to actually remove fully by hand, although i have two separate hand products, that will remove some swirling, and mask the rest with fillers contained within their chemical make up. Both of these products will work on a Mecury Grey car.
Tell me more
Got a bit of swirling and a few light scratches in the laquer...hoping to remove these and then use something to help protect the finish...i got the auto glym gloss protection stuff to go on once its all polished as I been told that prolongs the shine pretty well...
You going to Ford Fair?

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Im interested in this product that removes swirls or some swirls. I know its hard by hand doing it without getting the buffer and compound out. But i would like something i could use and trust myself to use without destroying my car
.

- nick050
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Superal :Gaz7 :Superal - yes, i've got a range of things that may be able to help you. Do i take it you mean swirling, or actual scratches? Both will be a little tricky to actually remove fully by hand, although i have two separate hand products, that will remove some swirling, and mask the rest with fillers contained within their chemical make up. Both of these products will work on a Mecury Grey car.
Tell me more
Got a bit of swirling and a few light scratches in the laquer...hoping to remove these and then use something to help protect the finish...i got the auto glym gloss protection stuff to go on once its all polished as I been told that prolongs the shine pretty well...
You going to Ford Fair?
ClearKote Vanilla Moose Glaze has some cut (slightly more than AG Super Resin), thus giving it some ability to correct some swirling defects. It has some filling ability to cover over what is left behind. Alternatively, you could use Poorboy's Polish with Carnauba Blue - it can't remove swirls as well as VMG, but it contains a lot of fillers, and can mask them and product a deep, gloss shine.
Glazing after this, with ClearKote Red Moose Machine Glaze will wetten the finish, and help hide any remaining defects. Seal this with either Poorboy's EX or EX-P depending on what finish you desire, and your car will look about as good as you'll get by hand - and even better if you then use a finishing wax.
If you have heavier scratches or swirls, you could consider the use of an abrasive polish. Poorboy's SSR1 is about as abrasive as can effectively be used by hand, and would have the most defect correctional ability out of pretty much any hand product without stepping up to a machine. it would be slightly harder work than a normal polish, but hardly at all - i've used it by hand without a problem. Follow that by a regular polish, either the CK VMG or PB's Carnauba Blue, and they'll give an excellent finish and help hide any remaining defects.
Gareth
- Gaz7
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nick050 :Im interested in this product that removes swirls or some swirls. I know its hard by hand doing it without getting the buffer and compound out. But i would like something i could use and trust myself to use without destroying my car.
Nick - what colour is your car? You may find the above advice also applies to yourself.
Gareth
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Gaz7 :nick050 :Im interested in this product that removes swirls or some swirls. I know its hard by hand doing it without getting the buffer and compound out. But i would like something i could use and trust myself to use without destroying my car.
Nick - what colour is your car? You may find the above advice also applies to yourself.
Gareth
its radient red i hope it does as it sounds good. I wouldnt go for the poor boy abraishive stuff as it sounds too harsh for me i nearly managed to destory my paintwork with tcut
i am interested in one of those polishes tho so i will probs pm you about ordering one soon ive just bought a few ag products so will use them then get on to you if thats ok

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Thanks for top quality service Gaz. I received my order this morning - only placed it yesterday, so top marks for speedy delivery! Dead pleased with the products too, and I shall be using them on the Capri as soon as we get a cloudy day! 
My name is Alex. I used to have a Capri. I don't anymore. But I'm still called Capri.
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nick050 :Gaz7 :nick050 :Im interested in this product that removes swirls or some swirls. I know its hard by hand doing it without getting the buffer and compound out. But i would like something i could use and trust myself to use without destroying my car.
Nick - what colour is your car? You may find the above advice also applies to yourself.
Gareth
its radient red i hope it does as it sounds good. I wouldnt go for the poor boy abraishive stuff as it sounds too harsh for me i nearly managed to destory my paintwork with tcutit was out of date so you can't blame me
![]()
i am interested in one of those polishes tho so i will probs pm you about ordering one soon ive just bought a few ag products so will use them then get on to you if thats ok
Yes, it would be fine. The best finish for red is ClearKote VMG, ClearKote RMG, Poorboy's EX and ClearKote Carnauba wax to finish.
You could use the SSR1 without a problem. T-Cut is old and out dated - it damages paint because it's abrasives do not break down, ever. The SSR range safely break down as you use them, and i've used SSR1 by hand many a time with great success
Gareth: )
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Capri :Thanks for top quality service Gaz. I received my order this morning - only placed it yesterday, so top marks for speedy delivery! Dead pleased with the products too, and I shall be using them on the Capri as soon as we get a cloudy day!
Excellent - i'm glad you're pleased Alex
If you ever choose to expand your product range, most ClearKote and Poorboy's products can be used in the sun - unlike traditional AG or Meg's products - a benefit of being developed for concours in sunny California
Gareth
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Gaz
i need some help and hopefully one of these products can do it
i usually cover my car being that its parked under a tree
after uncovering today i found to my horror some sort of stains in the paintwork ( bit like watermarks )
ive tried everything in my kit and just cant move em
any ideas ???
Jon
i need some help and hopefully one of these products can do it
i usually cover my car being that its parked under a tree
after uncovering today i found to my horror some sort of stains in the paintwork ( bit like watermarks )
ive tried everything in my kit and just cant move em
any ideas ???
Jon
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Jon - do i read that right in that you're saying the car was covered, and upon uncovering it, it looks to have had water mark/etch the paint?
If so, what products have you tried so far?
Gareth
If so, what products have you tried so far?
Gareth
- Gaz7
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Gaz7 :Jon - do i read that right in that you're saying the car was covered, and upon uncovering it, it looks to have had water mark/etch the paint?
If so, what products have you tried so far?
Gareth
yeah thats right what u say above
i tried my Meguiars scatch remover, Meguiars step 1 paint cleaner, Autoglym paint restorer all with no effect really
its really funny tho cos it looks like its ' soaked ' into the surface thus why i am having probs polishing it out
depending on what angle you look at it depends on how bad it looks. the paint surface is really smooth now but it looks like it is deeper than the surface
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Yes, it sounds like it's etched the paintwork - which is never easy to sort out. The marks will come out over time, but i know that's not really acceptable for your car.
If the spots are dried and baked on, a 'secret acid wash' should remove them. All that really means is that you will need to use a mild acid to remove them - the best is distilled white vinegar - nice and cheap
Wash the car as normal, and rinse. Then wipe the distilled vinegar onto one panel at a time. Let it sit for one minute, then rinse off. Once the whole car is done, rewash with your normal shampoo. You will need to re-polish and wax after doing this.
If this fails, it means the water spots have etched into the paint. Using the vinegar will remove the minerals, but you'll still see some spotting. If this is the case, it will be best to clay the car and use an abrasive polish (like SSR1) by hand; or better still, have the car machine polished.
If you need them, there's already details on this thread about clay and it's group buy price, and SSR1 is £9.95 + P&P
HTH
Gareth
If the spots are dried and baked on, a 'secret acid wash' should remove them. All that really means is that you will need to use a mild acid to remove them - the best is distilled white vinegar - nice and cheap
Wash the car as normal, and rinse. Then wipe the distilled vinegar onto one panel at a time. Let it sit for one minute, then rinse off. Once the whole car is done, rewash with your normal shampoo. You will need to re-polish and wax after doing this.
If this fails, it means the water spots have etched into the paint. Using the vinegar will remove the minerals, but you'll still see some spotting. If this is the case, it will be best to clay the car and use an abrasive polish (like SSR1) by hand; or better still, have the car machine polished.
If you need them, there's already details on this thread about clay and it's group buy price, and SSR1 is £9.95 + P&P
HTH
Gareth
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Gaz7 :Yes, it sounds like it's etched the paintwork - which is never easy to sort out. The marks will come out over time, but i know that's not really acceptable for your car.
If the spots are dried and baked on, a 'secret acid wash' should remove them. All that really means is that you will need to use a mild acid to remove them - the best is distilled white vinegar - nice and cheap
Wash the car as normal, and rinse. Then wipe the distilled vinegar onto one panel at a time. Let it sit for one minute, then rinse off. Once the whole car is done, rewash with your normal shampoo. You will need to re-polish and wax after doing this.
If this fails, it means the water spots have etched into the paint. Using the vinegar will remove the minerals, but you'll still see some spotting. If this is the case, it will be best to clay the car and use an abrasive polish (like SSR1) by hand; or better still, have the car machine polished.
If you need them, there's already details on this thread about clay and it's group buy price, and SSR1 is £9.95 + P&P
HTH
Gareth
cheers for that mate
will give it a go next time
was thinking about some of the clay stuff ( which i may purchase soon )
will be in touch prob
Jon
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An EXTREMELY well packaged box arrived with my goodies today!
Many thanks to Gareth.... results on Friday!
Mike
Many thanks to Gareth.... results on Friday!
Mike

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Mike - thanks, i'm glad it arrived safely
Jon - Give it a go as soon as possible, the longer you leave them on the paint, the harder they are to get off...
Gareth
Jon - Give it a go as soon as possible, the longer you leave them on the paint, the harder they are to get off...
Gareth
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- Gaz7
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what would ya recommend for a matisse blue car then? (Or shall I pop it round yours one day so u can test some products?
- and the cuirass mondy
)
- fiestakingfisher
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Ah yes, one quick question that may be useful to a few people:
"With the Super Slick and Suds Car Wash, how much should be added to a bucket of water? It says 1oz, but is there an easier measure, like a cap full for instance?
Also, should it be added before or after water has been placed in the bucket?
And finally, what water temperature is recommended, or doesn't it matter?"
Many thanks!
Mike
"With the Super Slick and Suds Car Wash, how much should be added to a bucket of water? It says 1oz, but is there an easier measure, like a cap full for instance?
Also, should it be added before or after water has been placed in the bucket?
And finally, what water temperature is recommended, or doesn't it matter?"
Many thanks!
Mike

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mike_wall15 :Ah yes, one quick question that may be useful to a few people:
"With the Super Slick and Suds Car Wash, how much should be added to a bucket of water? It says 1oz, but is there an easier measure, like a cap full for instance?
Also, should it be added before or after water has been placed in the bucket?
And finally, what water temperature is recommended, or doesn't it matter?"
Many thanks!
Mike
Mike, the amount you add depends on what buckets you use; 'normal ones' or the bigger, clear ones from B&Q. As a rough guide, it's around three and a half caps (each capful holds about 0.3oz, as the cap is small), and slightly more for the bigger buckets. It should be added before the water, so that the water can agitate it as it fills the bucket. The water should be luke warm, summer or winter
Gareth
- Gaz7
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fiestakingfisher :what would ya recommend for a matisse blue car then? (Or shall I pop it round yours one day so u can test some products?- and the cuirass mondy
)
Lol, you can test some products if you want
Gareth
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- Max M4X WW
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It's all American mate, so that polish bottles are a standard 16 fl.oz. Other items, like the Slick and Suds, and Spray and Rinse, are the large 32 fl.oz. bottles.
Gareth
Gareth
- Gaz7
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Yep, round about 500ml. The products last for ages, as you only ever need to use a small amount of each - it takes me ages to get through bottles of stuff, and i use it a lot
No probs, just let me know what you're after once you know.
Gareth
No probs, just let me know what you're after once you know.
Gareth
- Gaz7
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Hi, just seen this post
I want to place an order for the first kit you have, the wash mitts, suds and drying cloth.
I have a darkish metallic red car, i usually spray the car with the hose (not at the current time obv) and use the two bucket method with turtlewax car shampoo. Chamois it all off then wack on some wax i have, and it comes out all clean and shiny. Wheels are cleaned with a brush to agitate the wheel cleaner then have that spray to put on afterwards.
However after reading quite a few posts like this on other forums as well, i really should be treating my paintwork a bit better.
So a good start is your first kit, i'm really interested in this clay as well.
Can i have the first kit and some clay please
I do have swirl makrs but i'm not over fussed, i'm not a concourse person i just want it to look respectable and shiny.
Can you PM me when you read this reply and then we'll sort out payment and address please.
Thanks very much in advance, cheers for the post and the time you've put in.
James
I want to place an order for the first kit you have, the wash mitts, suds and drying cloth.
I have a darkish metallic red car, i usually spray the car with the hose (not at the current time obv) and use the two bucket method with turtlewax car shampoo. Chamois it all off then wack on some wax i have, and it comes out all clean and shiny. Wheels are cleaned with a brush to agitate the wheel cleaner then have that spray to put on afterwards.
However after reading quite a few posts like this on other forums as well, i really should be treating my paintwork a bit better.
So a good start is your first kit, i'm really interested in this clay as well.
Can i have the first kit and some clay please
I do have swirl makrs but i'm not over fussed, i'm not a concourse person i just want it to look respectable and shiny.
Can you PM me when you read this reply and then we'll sort out payment and address please.
Thanks very much in advance, cheers for the post and the time you've put in.
James

- Kartracer69
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Gaz - I noticed no phone number in the first post, or any contact details in your sig - are you taking orders over the phone yet? Wouldn't mind a quick chat to determine what'd be useful, then place an order afterwards sometime 
- heeman10
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heeman10 :Gaz - I noticed no phone number in the first post, or any contact details in your sig - are you taking orders over the phone yet? Wouldn't mind a quick chat to determine what'd be useful, then place an order afterwards sometime
Think you can go all bufty now you have new paint do you!!
Gaz is very good at responding to pm's, and there *may* be some contact info on his website if you can get to it.
Hope this helps!

- mike_wall15
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I have no idea what the site is
As a trader he needs a sig with useful info at the least, but ideally an image linked to his website..I see neither! come on Mr Gaz, get it sorted and you'll make some money!
But yes Mike, now I have a car with new (non-tractor) paint I'd like to wash it properly. You may remember that at FITP I was happy sponging the whole car off without rinsing, grinding all the grit etc in
Poor car, I really must get some proper paint on it! Am doing a couple of bits and bobs to it at the moment..new brake pads, spraying up my Escort brake servo, fitting a brand new Escort master cylinder then fitting it to the car and bleeding all the brakes. May inspect the rear brakes too as I suspect they're totally gone, and I have no rear discs yet
Then the gearbox will be off so I can check the clutch and release bearing...it's MOT time again soon I think as well! Bums!!
But yes Mike, now I have a car with new (non-tractor) paint I'd like to wash it properly. You may remember that at FITP I was happy sponging the whole car off without rinsing, grinding all the grit etc in
- heeman10
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heeman10 :Gaz - I noticed no phone number in the first post, or any contact details in your sig - are you taking orders over the phone yet? Wouldn't mind a quick chat to determine what'd be useful, then place an order afterwards sometime
Hello mate.
So far, i've delayed setting up certain things due to a delay in my business account being set up, and having to work seven days a week at my regular job. My website is still under construction, and as soon as it is finished, i'll have a signature based on it and a link
If you'd like to call me, feel free on 07943 872963, i can call you back if you wish. For general enquiries about products and techniques, email me on enquiries@detailedobsession.co.uk
Let me know if you're after any particular information
Gareth
Last edited by Gaz7 on Wed Nov 11, 2009 10:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
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mike_wall15 :heeman10 :Gaz - I noticed no phone number in the first post, or any contact details in your sig - are you taking orders over the phone yet? Wouldn't mind a quick chat to determine what'd be useful, then place an order afterwards sometime
Think you can go all bufty now you have new paint do you!!Didn't see you take much care of the lovely metro!!!
![]()
Gaz is very good at responding to pm's, and there *may* be some contact info on his website if you can get to it.
Hope this helps!
![]()
Yep, i'm happy to reply to PM's or email
As soon as the website is finished, i'll publicise it a lot more; won't be long!
Gareth
- Gaz7
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I've added them to the first post, but here are some details:
I can be reached via PM on this site, or email more detailed enquiries to me at:
enquiries@detailedobsession.co.uk
My website is under construction, and once completed will be publicised.
If you'd like to speak to me, call me during office hours on 07943 872963. I can call you back if you wish.
I can be reached via PM on this site, or email more detailed enquiries to me at:
enquiries@detailedobsession.co.uk
My website is under construction, and once completed will be publicised.
If you'd like to speak to me, call me during office hours on 07943 872963. I can call you back if you wish.
Last edited by Gaz7 on Wed Nov 11, 2009 10:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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