fiestaturbo.com

[Max M4X WW]

Im awaiting a few bits from Gaz, Will see what the results are like at FF!

[Superal]

Likewise...hopefully it will be a much better day then fitp so we can really see the results in the sunshine

[D.J]

Hi Gareth, just another quick question.

With the Optimum Wax, does the car have to be clean before it is applied, or can I, for arguements sake, after a downpour of dirty rain that has dried, can i spray the OCW on to get the shine back, or do i have to atleast rinse and dry first?

Thanks mate...

[Gaz7]

Hi mate,

No, it must be applied to clean paintwork - not over dust etc, which is always likely to be on the car after a shower.

You can use your ClearKote Quik Shine to wipe down a clean car that may have stood for a while etec, although i still wouldn't recommend this over dust.

Gareth

[MAD_Adamski]

gaz are you going to ford fair!? as said earlier i need some stuff for my car??? cash waiting

[Gaz7]

gaz i need some kit this week for my fiesta something that i will be able to use on my imp blue cossie too what do you recommend as i have a photoshoot in FF next week .... just just been buffed by the body shop but he said it needs a nice polish now

Hello mate, a full set up, that would work well on both cars would be:

Polish - ClearKote Vanilla Moose Glaze
Glaze - ClearKote Red Moose Machine Glaze
Sealant - Poorboy's EX-P
Finishing Wax - Natty's Blue.

For the first 90 days of fresh paint however, only the CK Vanilla Moose Glaze should be used. Use the others once the paint is 90 days old or over.

Gareth

need this lot then asap mate??!!!

Hi mate, give me a shout and i'll get those posted to you. I can't come to FF unfortunately as i had a day off for the motorshow, and can't get another one off so soon

Gareth

[Gaz7]

For the first 90 days of fresh paint however, only the CK Vanilla Moose Glaze should be used. Use the others once the paint is 90 days old or over.

Gareth

Wouldn't you only use Red Moose Machine for the first 90 days? I thought it'd be wise to not cut at all?

Mike

Hi mate - No, it's not the cut you worry about, but the chemical make up of the products. Polish is the only safe thing to use on fresh paint, as it won't block up the pores. The cut is nothing compared to the compounds the body shop will have cut and buffed the paint with after spraying.

Glazes, sealants and waxes all block up the paint's pores by their nature - which is usually exactly what you want. For the first 90 days however, the paint needs to breathe, hence only polish should be used.

Gareth

[mike_wall15]

Cheers Gareth, a very useful bit of knowledge there, one for the future

[Superal]

Thanks gaz recieved my products on Friday last week. Only tested them out slightly on Sat as was stretched for time but from what I can see the finish of the polish is fantastic

And thanks again for the great personal service you give. I dont know anyone else on the forum that goes to such lengths to make every response so thorough.

[Gaz7]

Thanks gaz recieved my products on Friday last week. Only tested them out slightly on Sat as was stretched for time but from what I can see the finish of the polish is fantastic

And thanks again for the great personal service you give. I dont know anyone else on the forum that goes to such lengths to make every response so thorough.

Hello mate, i'm glad you've received everything okay and you'll like the finish. When you've got time to use the whole lot, i'm certain you'll love how your car comes out Thanks for the feeback about the service too I'm trying to give the best personal service possible, whilst maintaining my day job. Glad you're pleased; if you ever need anything else, don't hesitate to give me a shout

Thanks again,

Gareth

[D.J]

Hi Gareth

Sorry mate, but i've got another question for you

If i fond i wanna give the car a polish after washing, what would be the best thing to use out of the Clearkote VMG and the Poor Boy's EX-P?

Thanks mate.

[Gaz7]

Hello mate,

You should top up the finish with the OCW. If you want to do an extra stage, then do EX-P > OCW.

If you repolish, you should do the whole lot as it'll take everything off

Gareth

[D.J]

Hi Gareth.

I think i worded it slightly awkwardly, but you answered my question anyway.

I was basically asking about doing the extra stage.

Thanks again for the excellent help and advice...

[Gaz7]

No problem You'll get an even brighter, flakier finish by re-layering the EX-P.

Gareth

[Guy Mk4]

Just a few observations I have made today, and was wondering whether you lot could cast your expert opinions/experiences?

1) I have found that putting on wax using a damp Meguiars (Or similar) applicator pad seems to work better than just wax on the pad. It thins the wax out somewhat and gives a much more even layer over the paint.
I also found that after a few weeks of washing and waxing this way, I have ended up with a near mirror finish on silver metallic.
Is there a reason for this, or is it just that lots of thin applications is better than one larger one.

2) I have bought some Armourall sponge on tyre cleanser, and it is the best stuff ever, I have tried spray on, and foams, both of which do a good job, but the the effect doesn't last long. This stuff is really glossy and looks better than brand new.

[mike_wall15]

I have found that some products don't go on as easy as others, so yes, I've tried a quick spray of detailer on the pad and it worked better. Too much doesn't work very well, just a little to get started and then you're away...
I think it depends on the heat of the panel you're working on too
And the Megs applicator sponge is top banana too, spreads evenly, is quick, and only puts on a thin amount

I've always used a seperate sponge to apply tyre dressing, and it lasts ages in the bottle, and ages on the tyre!

Good to hear you're getting a better finish all the time

[Guy Mk4]

It just seems that making the Meg's pad damp puts a much thinner layer on, which makes it easier to polish off. Yeah, the finish just gets more and more like glass. Next thing is to run some clay over it

[mike_wall15]

Least it'll last you longer now! I always try to put on quite a thin layer, putting on anymore just creates more hassle to get it off, and doesn't have any benefit over a large layer protection wise IMO. Building up layers is a different story though

Can't believe you haven't tried a clay! You'll get a huge satisfaction seeing all the crap come off, just make sure you don't wax/seal too often, otherwise it'll all be wasted when the clay takes it off!

[Gaz7]

Yes, the vast majority of products respond much, much better to a thin application - something i've been trying to get across to people for years - lots off people like to'slap it on and wipe it off'.

The Megs pads are very good, and using them damp makes them even better. The ClearKote M/F block applicators are better for putting on polish as they have more bite, and these work fantastically well damp - giving a nice thin, even layer.

The products i supply tend to all respond to going on thinly, and products like CK Carnauba Moose Wax very, very thinly. I have tried to stress this to everyone that has bought them! Two thin layers is always better than one thick one - especially if the product is designed to be layered, like the Poorboy's EX sealants, and the finishing waxes.

Gareth

[KEVFRST]

a big big big shout to gaz, here are some pics to enjoy, please note that these pics are not edited, straight from camera!

Also, this is only stage 1 of 4, I havent had time to finish it off, howevr I can only imagine how much its going to shine!

[Gaz7]

Dude, that looks fantastic - and you don't get the full on proper shine until stage 4 Do two really thin layers of the Carnauba Moose Wax as your last stage mate, as this works fantastic on red - and look how good the car looks already. Can't wait to see the finished pics

Looks like i'll have to get mine out of the garage for a detail - can't have someone else shinier than me

Gareth

[KEVFRST]

all that lovely shine and im in the process of lashing £250 on a tailor made cover. I know i wont be using the car till next march/april now so best off a good ol clean, then hidey away.


started stage 2 today, cant see much difference but i was working inside.

[Gaz7]

Some of the stages make a difference in certain situations - you won't see a difference until out in the sunshine, but trust me - that's one of my all time favourite products, and it makes a quality difference This applies to people that have bought products like EX-P as well - you may not initially see a difference if applied indoors or on a cloudy day, but when the sun comes out - there it is

Gareth

[D.J]

Just thought i would post up a few pics after i cleaned my car.

They're not great as they were taken on my phone, and it wasn't that sunny (excuses, excuses).

There is a lot of reflection, and also a lovely flake to it (last pic). I shall get some better pics next time i give her a wash.










Gareth, me and my dad are in the process of building a Dax Tageiro (Cobra Replica), and we will be getting it back from painting at the end of september. What recommendations have you got for brand new paint and what products would be best to use?

It is going to have a version of imperial blue with our own little change to it. We had a sample panel sprayed and it has got a lovely flake that is just begging to be shown off

[mike_wall15]

Silver can look really good when the sun is out!

I think Gareth will recommend new paint is treated with only ClearKote Vanilla Moose Glaze for 6-8 weeks. You want to allow the paint the breathe. I think it's explained somewhere in these 5 pages

[D.J]

I think it was Mr Adamski who asked the question, just wondering if it was any different due to the body being fibre glass and not metal?

I gotta get some better pics of the flake in the sun as it looks fantastic

[Gaz7]

Your car's looking great

Yep, as Mike said, just VMG to start with - for 90 days. This will take care of fresh paint nicely.

Then, it'll need a different product set up to what you use on your silver cars if it's like Imperial The fibre glass won't make any difference, as long as it's being painted then it'll be the same as detailing a metal car - you only get a slight difference with gel-coats.

Gareth

[Max M4X WW]

you only get a slight difference with gel-coats

Like polishing a bath

[MarkRS2K]

Feedback time-

A big thanks to Gareth as for the last few days i have been sendig pms to him regarding my requirements from his products, he always gave a fast and excellent answer to my many questions

Anyway i went for the clay kit, SSR1, Moose wax and the necessary application pads.

And what a result- first thing like this i have ever done- i was really getting annoyed with my cars bodywork, it seemed that every panel had some sort of paint defect, e.g. stained bird poo, or poor blending/touch ups.

As the weather didnt look to good, i decided to just do the tailgate and spoiler as they were the worst panels- i had a stained bird poo mark and 2 very noticable paint blending issues- so i clayed along withthe detailer, used the SSR1, then my own brand of polish (skint at the moment so couldnt go for the full kit from Gaz, but will be in the summer ready for shows etc...) then finished off with the moose wax. All this combined completed elimated my poo marks and bad blending areas- it feels so smooth and the wax really gave it a deep shine at the end- no word of a lie when i say the paint looks fresh from the factory

I will continue with the rest of the car another day as im awaiting some buffing cloths from Gaz which i just ordered to really help polish up the paint- rather than my crapping cloths ive been using.

His stuff is excellent, and his customer care is even better.

Big thanks Gareth, and a note to any future buyers- you will not be dissappointed, trust me

[Guy Mk4]

Your car's looking great

Yep, as Mike said, just VMG to start with - for 90 days. This will take care of fresh paint nicely.

Then, it'll need a different product set up to what you use on your silver cars if it's like Imperial The fibre glass won't make any difference, as long as it's being painted then it'll be the same as detailing a metal car - you only get a slight difference with gel-coats.

Gareth

Does this 90 break in period work for brand new cars, or just new paint? I am seriously considering buying a new car at the mo, and odnt wanna go ruining the paint with the wrong wax.

[Gaz7]

Mark - thank you for your kind words, i'm genuinely pleased that your car has come out well and that you like the products. If you need any further help, then feel free to contact me any time - thanks again

Guy - the 90 day period applies to all fresh paint, including new cars. If you buy new, ask the dealer to supply you with the car's build date - it will be painted on this day. Then just work out your 90 days from there

Gareth

[~Tony~]

Hi gaz another fun one for you,
I have a signwritten van, it is done in vynil as so is slightly raised off the body work,

what is the best way to polish this without ruining the vynil, even if its just wax so it can be kept clean and shiney.

its only a work vehicle so it doesn't have to be immaculate just respectable as people will notice it more..

your best solution would be appreciated here

[~Tony~]

apologies for the amount of questions and lack of buying, i will be purchasing when cashflow is better

[Gaz7]

Hi mate,

Optimum Car Wax will be perfect for the job - it's what i sell to people with Fiesta ST's, as it's so kind to the stripes. It's a multi-surface product, and will even shine up the vinyl If you wanted to polish first, ClearKote VMG will also be kind and easy to get off, if you got a little on the vinyl areas.

Gareth

[Excursion]

Gareth are you in Tomorrow night? Can I collect, where are you based exactly?