[GUIDE]Wiring Aftermarket Fogs With Ford Switch
9 posts • Page 1 of 1
[GUIDE]Wiring Aftermarket Fogs With Ford Switch
by AW3K on Wed Sep 28, 2005 3:16 pm
Yet another fog light wiring guide!
This guide looks at wiring aftermarket fog lights with an aftermarket relay but still using a ford switch.
This is guide three of four, showing the different ways to do it using ford and non-Ford parts,
This guide is fairly straight forward compared to the other fog light guides as there is no messing about with the fuse box or loom, all you need are the parts stated below.
First things first you will need a ford front fog light switch, look on ebay or a scrap yard, if all else fails they are available from ford for around £15 each. You only need one.
Next you need a Single Pole Normally Open (SPNO) 40A Automotive Relay. I got the one I used from http://www.maplin.co.uk order code N02AW and they cost £2.19.
Next you will need some crimp connectors, these can either be the non-insulated or insulated coloured variants, entirely up to you. I prefer to use the non insulated as you can see you have a good connection and you can solder if need be. Again from Maplin order code HF10L and you will also need FE66W push on covers, both priced at 74p per 10 pack.
Yet another thing that you will need is some ring terminals, again insulated or non insulated, your choice. Eyelet 6.7mm Maplin code JH63T. 42p per 10 pack.
You will also need a good quality high amp multi-core cable to connect the fog lights to the relay, and the relay to the power. Speaking of power you also need a inline fuse holder and 15 amp blue fuse.
And don’t forget some fog/driving lamps, I got some Ring 17cm ones that fit inside the Fiesta SI bumper. Below are the new fog lights on the left and the original Ford on the right.
Now that’s all shopping out of the way, now its time to start building.
Lets start with a diagram of what we are supposed to be doing.
Simple isn’t it!
Lets move on to the relay, it’s a SPNO relay, Single Pole Normally Open, which means that only one circuit is connected to the relay and while the coil inside is not energised the connections are open, so no power gets to the fog lights. Once power is applied to the coil the connection is made and the lights come on.
From the diagram the wire from pin 86 needs to be earthed, this is simple as the relay will be mounted in the engine bay away from heat and moisture, it will need to be screwed to a panel for security and thus creating an earth.
Cut a short length of wire and terminate one end with a ring terminal and the other end with a lucar blade connector with its insulating sleeve put on before the connector.
I mounted the relay behind the jack using an existing earth point, this earth point may already be in use by the rev counter suppressor, if so simply move the relay.
Once done, push the connector onto pin 86 and bend the wire behind the relay and align it with the mounting hole and screw in place.
Now move onto pin 30 which is the positive feed to the relay, use good quality wire here. Gut a length of wire approximately 84cm to reach from the relay to the positive terminal from the battery. Terminate one of the ends with a ring terminal and the other end with a Lucas blade connector and insulator. Close to the relay, cut the power wire and insert an inline fuse holder but do not put a fuse in yet.
Now pin 85 needs to be connected to pin 2 on the ford switch, so cut a length of wire long enough to reach from the centre of the dash, along the dash and out of the rubber grommet and to the position of the relay.
Do not connect this nor push it through the grommet at this time.
Take another colour of wire and cut it to the same length of the just cut above. This wire connects pin 87 from the relay to pin 4 on the switch.
Now you can wrap both of these wires together and route them neatly along the loom using the original cable clips from the relay and push them through the grommet behind the header tank and into the car.
Terminate the wire that connects to pin 4 of the switch inside the car with a smaller version of the blade connector, at this point you cannot connect the other end to the relay as more needs to be done here.
The other wire that you pushed inside the car, the one for pin 2 on the switch needs to be terminated on both ends with normal sized blade connectors.
As mentioned above the wire that connects pin 87 from the relay to pin 4 on the switch needs some more work to it, I say work, well its just another wire that will run from the relay to both fog lights, it is up to you if you run 2 independent wires to each fog light or one single wire to one lamp with another tapped off it. Either way you need to twist the bare wires from the wires together and crimp a connector onto the end making sure that you remember an insulation sleeve.
Wrap a bit of insulation tape on the cluster of wires about an inch from the connector to reduce the strain.
I chose the single wire method; the length of the wire from the relay to the drivers’ side fog light is approximately 252cm long, and at approximately 130cm from the relay, solder a length of wire 35cm long and cut it in half but do not loose the off cut, insulate the join to reduce short circuits this wire is the positive feed to the passenger side fog light.
A length of brown (earth) wire needs to be cut to approximately 225cm, long enough to reach from the valance up to the earth point on the drivers side inner wing, this is where the lights will be earthed. On this wire at approximately 125cm from the earth terminal solder a length of wire approximately 35cms long and cut it in half but do not loose the off cut, insulate the join to reduce short circuits, this is the earth for the passenger side fog light. Terminate the wing end of the wire with a correct sized ring.
Wrap both the positive wire and the earth together to form a loom making sure that the longest ends are to the outer edge of the loom, the negative will have a ring on it and the positive will have a blade connector with the wire from the switch.
Where the spur wires are connected, wrap these together and terminate them with a small two-way connector to allow the lights to be disconnected. The connector I used was a model car battery connector; it should really be a waterproof one.
Remember those off cuts mentioned above? They need to have the opposite side of the loom connector crimped to them. Then the other ends needs to be terminated into a male blade connector on the positive side as the bulb has a female blade connector on it. Then the negative wire needs to be terminated into a small ring connector. (This is manufacturer specific, this is how Ring set their lights out).
That’s it for the relay wiring, now lets go back to the switch wiring.
The wires from pins 1 and 5 need to be soldered together, now you need to solder a small length to the end of these, long enough to reach the next switch in the panel. Insulate the join with heat shrink or insulation tape.
The wires from pins 4 and 2 are already terminated with the correct connector within the car if you have followed the guide so far.
The earth wire from pin 3 on the switch needs to be extended to reach the earth point on the steering column. Terminate this wire with a suitably sized insulated or un-insulated ring.
Now the connection of every thing, may be easy may not be, it depends how good you are at soldering.
Route the two wires from the grommet down with the existing loom, making sure it is secure as you go until you get to the middle of the dash, more specifically the switch panel.
If not already done so, remove the switch panel surround to gain access to the existing switches.
Pop out the rear fog light switch from behind and unplug the switch.
Push the wiring through the right switch aperture ensuring that the single illumination wire is not in this aperture, it should come out of the next switch hole.
Strip a section of insulation from the illumination wire (Smaller connector) on the exposed section of wire. Strip the end of the single illumination wire from the front fog light switch and wrap it around the bare wire and solder it to make a good connection. Insulate this with insulation tape and fasten all the wires together to ensure they are secure and not able to move.
Now connect all the wires up to the switch looking at the colour of the wires from the relay and use the pin outs given on the diagram and the switch back to aid you.
Refit both fog light switches and replace the trim panel making sure you remove the blanking plug from the panel.
Remove the lower steering column shroud, this is held on by 4 Torx or star headed screws in the plastic.
Remember that earth that I told you to make long enough to reach the steering column, well take it and push it up through the existing wires then either remove the existing earth screw on the right and put the ring behind the existing ring earth, or get another screw and earth the wire in the hole on the left of the column, entirely up to you. Ensure the earth is tight then refit the shroud.
Connect the flying lead from the loom to the back of the fog lights and then fix the fog lamps either into the SI bumper or onto the standard bumper with the fitting kit provided.
Go and put the 15-amp fuse into the fuse holder near the relay and wrap the fuse holder in insulation tape to keep water and moisture out of it.
To test the fog lights you first must plug them into the bare wires/multiplugs in the lower valance at the front of the car.
Put your key in and turn the ignition on, then put the sidelights on, they should work normally.
Flick the switch to normal headlights and they should also work normally, the fog lights are independently switched on via the switch in the dash, but they will not work unless the sidelights are switched on.
And that’s all for this guide,
Hope it is of some help and happy Modding.
Guide written by AW3K Andrew Whiteman, 15th September 2005
This guide looks at wiring aftermarket fog lights with an aftermarket relay but still using a ford switch.
This is guide three of four, showing the different ways to do it using ford and non-Ford parts,
This guide is fairly straight forward compared to the other fog light guides as there is no messing about with the fuse box or loom, all you need are the parts stated below.
First things first you will need a ford front fog light switch, look on ebay or a scrap yard, if all else fails they are available from ford for around £15 each. You only need one.
Next you need a Single Pole Normally Open (SPNO) 40A Automotive Relay. I got the one I used from http://www.maplin.co.uk order code N02AW and they cost £2.19.
Next you will need some crimp connectors, these can either be the non-insulated or insulated coloured variants, entirely up to you. I prefer to use the non insulated as you can see you have a good connection and you can solder if need be. Again from Maplin order code HF10L and you will also need FE66W push on covers, both priced at 74p per 10 pack.
Yet another thing that you will need is some ring terminals, again insulated or non insulated, your choice. Eyelet 6.7mm Maplin code JH63T. 42p per 10 pack.
You will also need a good quality high amp multi-core cable to connect the fog lights to the relay, and the relay to the power. Speaking of power you also need a inline fuse holder and 15 amp blue fuse.
And don’t forget some fog/driving lamps, I got some Ring 17cm ones that fit inside the Fiesta SI bumper. Below are the new fog lights on the left and the original Ford on the right.
Now that’s all shopping out of the way, now its time to start building.
Lets start with a diagram of what we are supposed to be doing.
Simple isn’t it!
Lets move on to the relay, it’s a SPNO relay, Single Pole Normally Open, which means that only one circuit is connected to the relay and while the coil inside is not energised the connections are open, so no power gets to the fog lights. Once power is applied to the coil the connection is made and the lights come on.
From the diagram the wire from pin 86 needs to be earthed, this is simple as the relay will be mounted in the engine bay away from heat and moisture, it will need to be screwed to a panel for security and thus creating an earth.
Cut a short length of wire and terminate one end with a ring terminal and the other end with a lucar blade connector with its insulating sleeve put on before the connector.
I mounted the relay behind the jack using an existing earth point, this earth point may already be in use by the rev counter suppressor, if so simply move the relay.
Once done, push the connector onto pin 86 and bend the wire behind the relay and align it with the mounting hole and screw in place.
Now move onto pin 30 which is the positive feed to the relay, use good quality wire here. Gut a length of wire approximately 84cm to reach from the relay to the positive terminal from the battery. Terminate one of the ends with a ring terminal and the other end with a Lucas blade connector and insulator. Close to the relay, cut the power wire and insert an inline fuse holder but do not put a fuse in yet.
Now pin 85 needs to be connected to pin 2 on the ford switch, so cut a length of wire long enough to reach from the centre of the dash, along the dash and out of the rubber grommet and to the position of the relay.
Do not connect this nor push it through the grommet at this time.
Take another colour of wire and cut it to the same length of the just cut above. This wire connects pin 87 from the relay to pin 4 on the switch.
Now you can wrap both of these wires together and route them neatly along the loom using the original cable clips from the relay and push them through the grommet behind the header tank and into the car.
Terminate the wire that connects to pin 4 of the switch inside the car with a smaller version of the blade connector, at this point you cannot connect the other end to the relay as more needs to be done here.
The other wire that you pushed inside the car, the one for pin 2 on the switch needs to be terminated on both ends with normal sized blade connectors.
As mentioned above the wire that connects pin 87 from the relay to pin 4 on the switch needs some more work to it, I say work, well its just another wire that will run from the relay to both fog lights, it is up to you if you run 2 independent wires to each fog light or one single wire to one lamp with another tapped off it. Either way you need to twist the bare wires from the wires together and crimp a connector onto the end making sure that you remember an insulation sleeve.
Wrap a bit of insulation tape on the cluster of wires about an inch from the connector to reduce the strain.
I chose the single wire method; the length of the wire from the relay to the drivers’ side fog light is approximately 252cm long, and at approximately 130cm from the relay, solder a length of wire 35cm long and cut it in half but do not loose the off cut, insulate the join to reduce short circuits this wire is the positive feed to the passenger side fog light.
A length of brown (earth) wire needs to be cut to approximately 225cm, long enough to reach from the valance up to the earth point on the drivers side inner wing, this is where the lights will be earthed. On this wire at approximately 125cm from the earth terminal solder a length of wire approximately 35cms long and cut it in half but do not loose the off cut, insulate the join to reduce short circuits, this is the earth for the passenger side fog light. Terminate the wing end of the wire with a correct sized ring.
Wrap both the positive wire and the earth together to form a loom making sure that the longest ends are to the outer edge of the loom, the negative will have a ring on it and the positive will have a blade connector with the wire from the switch.
Where the spur wires are connected, wrap these together and terminate them with a small two-way connector to allow the lights to be disconnected. The connector I used was a model car battery connector; it should really be a waterproof one.
Remember those off cuts mentioned above? They need to have the opposite side of the loom connector crimped to them. Then the other ends needs to be terminated into a male blade connector on the positive side as the bulb has a female blade connector on it. Then the negative wire needs to be terminated into a small ring connector. (This is manufacturer specific, this is how Ring set their lights out).
That’s it for the relay wiring, now lets go back to the switch wiring.
The wires from pins 1 and 5 need to be soldered together, now you need to solder a small length to the end of these, long enough to reach the next switch in the panel. Insulate the join with heat shrink or insulation tape.
The wires from pins 4 and 2 are already terminated with the correct connector within the car if you have followed the guide so far.
The earth wire from pin 3 on the switch needs to be extended to reach the earth point on the steering column. Terminate this wire with a suitably sized insulated or un-insulated ring.
Now the connection of every thing, may be easy may not be, it depends how good you are at soldering.
Route the two wires from the grommet down with the existing loom, making sure it is secure as you go until you get to the middle of the dash, more specifically the switch panel.
If not already done so, remove the switch panel surround to gain access to the existing switches.
Pop out the rear fog light switch from behind and unplug the switch.
Push the wiring through the right switch aperture ensuring that the single illumination wire is not in this aperture, it should come out of the next switch hole.
Strip a section of insulation from the illumination wire (Smaller connector) on the exposed section of wire. Strip the end of the single illumination wire from the front fog light switch and wrap it around the bare wire and solder it to make a good connection. Insulate this with insulation tape and fasten all the wires together to ensure they are secure and not able to move.
Now connect all the wires up to the switch looking at the colour of the wires from the relay and use the pin outs given on the diagram and the switch back to aid you.
Refit both fog light switches and replace the trim panel making sure you remove the blanking plug from the panel.
Remove the lower steering column shroud, this is held on by 4 Torx or star headed screws in the plastic.
Remember that earth that I told you to make long enough to reach the steering column, well take it and push it up through the existing wires then either remove the existing earth screw on the right and put the ring behind the existing ring earth, or get another screw and earth the wire in the hole on the left of the column, entirely up to you. Ensure the earth is tight then refit the shroud.
Connect the flying lead from the loom to the back of the fog lights and then fix the fog lamps either into the SI bumper or onto the standard bumper with the fitting kit provided.
Go and put the 15-amp fuse into the fuse holder near the relay and wrap the fuse holder in insulation tape to keep water and moisture out of it.
To test the fog lights you first must plug them into the bare wires/multiplugs in the lower valance at the front of the car.
Put your key in and turn the ignition on, then put the sidelights on, they should work normally.
Flick the switch to normal headlights and they should also work normally, the fog lights are independently switched on via the switch in the dash, but they will not work unless the sidelights are switched on.
And that’s all for this guide,
Hope it is of some help and happy Modding.
Guide written by AW3K Andrew Whiteman, 15th September 2005
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by Gmc on Wed Sep 28, 2005 5:16 pm
so those are a direct fit into the si bumper?
interesting! one of my fogs is a bit loose, might just replace them
good guide, it'll help those who aint technically minded
interesting! one of my fogs is a bit loose, might just replace them
good guide, it'll help those who aint technically minded
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by Sphinx on Wed Sep 28, 2005 5:28 pm
I'm less than useless at wireing but seeing that makes me wanna learn. Fair play to ya, looks like a neat job!
You can use my car when you prise the keys out of my cold dead hands
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by AW3K on Wed Sep 28, 2005 6:16 pm
the lense size is a perfect fit but you will need to make a small bracket up to go across the original mounts, where you bolt the new lights to.
Glad it is of some use, wiring is easy if you have a diagram, that diagram is just a simplified version of the one in the haynes.
Andy
Glad it is of some use, wiring is easy if you have a diagram, that diagram is just a simplified version of the one in the haynes.
Andy
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by AW3K on Thu Feb 02, 2006 2:49 pm
Mossy :Just wondering. is there is an advantage to fitting the aftermarket ones as a pose to the standard??
Its about the same really,
its just for people that cant get hold of propper ford parts like the relay and the fog lights them selves.
the lights fit the bumper but a bracket will need to be made.
hope it helps
Andy
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by mk3phill on Mon Feb 06, 2006 1:36 pm
an excellent guide, i done this when i got my si bumper's and it works really well 
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by AW3K on Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:44 pm
mk3phill :an excellent guide, i done this when i got my si bumper's and it works really well
Hi
glad it worked ok for you mate
check out my site as i keep updatig it but dont always put guides on here.
Thanks
Andy
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9 posts • Page 1 of 1