fiestaturbo.com

[Excursion]

I must admit I've never had a problem insuring project cars like this, which is what I'd expect, because as far as the insurer is concerned they just quote a price to cover the perceived risk, which is a price that also ensures they make a profit

[AW0L]

I must admit I've never had a problem insuring project cars like this, which is what I'd expect, because as far as the insurer is concerned they just quote a price to cover the perceived risk, which is a price that also ensures they make a profit

what sort of things should i say and not say when getting quotes for modified cars? its the first time i have done anything to the scale i have as seen on my thread and i want to make sure i declare everything done

[Excursion]

I must admit I've never had a problem insuring project cars like this, which is what I'd expect, because as far as the insurer is concerned they just quote a price to cover the perceived risk, which is a price that also ensures they make a profit

what sort of things should i say and not say when getting quotes for modified cars? its the first time i have done anything to the scale i have as seen on my thread and i want to make sure i declare everything done

All I've ever done is tell the insurer exactly what I've done, which if there are a lot of changes is usually easier done in written form. I usually create a summary document with supporting photos to qualify my valuation of the car.

You do need to choose the right company though, because there are the more 'regular' type of insurance companies who say they are 'modification friendly' but actually all they'll let you do is install a stereo, change the wheels etc.. The specialist insurers like AF will cover more in-depth modifications like engine swaps.

The business model for each insurance company is different, and depends on a particular risk profile and target customer base to work, so you need to choose one accordingly otherwise the quote becomes disproportionally expensive.

[luca]

Need To Insure is who you need to contact.

My cars are through them and they are fantastic!!!!

[GRP16V]

Fantastic rear end,
looks like moon-buggy high tech


Nice result and a good finish


Cheers.

[mikeymikeyp]

i want to see marks face when they get under there with a pry bar to see if theres any slack in it all

i also want to hear the phone call to the insurance company for the answer to the question, is the car modified?

ha ha

[Excursion]

Need To Insure is who you need to contact.

My cars are through them and they are fantastic!!!!

Great, thanks - I'll remember that.

Fantastic rear end,
looks like moon-buggy high tech


Nice result and a good finish


Cheers.

Cheers

[hamps]

oh my! This thing is the funlumps

[mikeymikeyp]

somehow i missed this thread but im moving through it slowly im at page 36 just now and took me a few days

so much work its unbeliveable keep it up mate

[Excursion]

Thanks guys.

[Excursion]

AP Racing Caliper Inspection and Rebuild
Despite them looking reasonable I've stripped down both the front and rear calipers to ensure everything is ship shape. Nitromors was used to remove the original paint from the front CP5555s, and also the yellow 'AP Racing' logo on the rear CP7030s.

I hit problems with the CP5555 where the innermost of the two bridge bolts were rounded on both calipers. AP have used a low profile cap screw in this position to keep the bolt flush with the caliper face, but the trade-off for this cosmetic touch is reduced purchase when attempting to loosen the screw. In the end I welded on an old wheel bolt to aid removal.


I made this tool winch connects one of my wall air outlets to the caliper bleed screw port and allows me to remove the pistons using compressed air.


Calipers stripped. I'm going to replace all bolts, wear plates, and seals as a matter of course, and the pistons on an 'as required' basis. One CP7030 and two CP5555 pistons will be replaced due due to minor scoring and corrosion pitting near the external seal line. Overall everything was in good condition; I'm being picky as I don't want to take any chances here.

Only the CP5555 came with Anti-Knockback springs installed but I can easily retrofit to the CP7030 if required, although for now I will omit them and see how I get one in the first year of driving.

The following order is with AP and I'm informed it'll be ready for the end of Jan.

Front - CP5555 (CP5555-814 to -817) Calipers
Piston Ø38.1 = CP2409-124 x 2
Seal Repair Kit = CP4519-CEJ
Pad Retainer Type = CP5555-126 x 4
Pad Retainer Bolt = CP3894-139 x 4
Wear Plates = CP5555-120 x 8
Fluid Pipe = CP5555-11 x 2

Rear - CP7030 Calipers
Pad set = CP3345D38 x 1
Piston Ø34.9 = CP7030-108 x 2
Seal Repair Kit = CP4518-GK x 2
Wear Plates = CP7030-106 x 8
Fluid Pipe = CP7030-6 x 2
Bobbin Kit CP2494-595K12 x 2
RH Disc 278x16mm CP3770-1014CG4 x 1

In the mean time I carried on with the refurbishment and with all seals removed the caliper sections were blown through with brake cleaner, degreased, washed at 70 degrees, and then Etch Primed.


I experimented with a few colours before choosing something I was happy with. My intent was to match the grey anodising of the racing line of callipers (road calipers are usually black or red) and for that I used Ford Polar Grey, which was too light. I then decided I like the later green/gold AP used on the replacement for the CP5555 (same body but different construction bolts used) so I tried two of my favourite Jaguar colours from recent times; Winter Gold (foreground) which was too yellow, and then Cashmere Gold (background) which was perfect.


I've used the Halfords mixing service in the past and found the paint to be good, so that's what I've used here. For the 'AP Racing' recessed logos I'm using a model paint, and rather than use a brush which I figured would take too long, I purchased a set of syringes from a fishing tackle shop and my plan is to inject the paint to fill the recess.


My plan worked perfectly and the results are great. Here are the calipers in basecoat and with the logos infilled.


Cashmere Gold looks more like a grey here, but turns slightly gold once lacquer is applied.


I purchased a complete set of new 12.9 Cap Screws to rebuild/mount the brakes with, and these were etch primed and then zinc primed.


I am very happy with the overall look.

I'm now waiting for my order to arrive from AP. Once it arrives I make a start on cleaning out all caliper threads with a tap, cleaning the mounting surfaces with a Scotch Brite pad, and finally I will rebuild with the new seals, bridge pipes etc.

Handbrake Caliper Modifications
The Focus calipers are mounted further outboard on my car than they would be on a standard Focus, and that combined with the thicker KW struts means that the handbrake cable attachment point won't work. I cut off the original mount point and fabricated these extensions to move the attachment point to a new position whilst maintaining the same 85mm distance to the actuating lever.


To complete the job I welded the original attachment points to the end of the extensions.


I then resprayed the calipers to match the AP's, as I wasn't happy with the amount of different colours behind the rear wheels.

[jonyb4]

My god your good

[Michael!]

calipers look brand new

outstanding as per!

[AW0L]

WOW thats awesome Mark great work there as usual!!!

[tompeteRS]

Stunning!!

[Excursion]

Thanks chaps

[fiestarsturboblack]

I really do reading ur updates mark. It looks the nuts.

[- Danny Boy -]

Nice work, Mark. I never thought about injecting paint into the logo's on brakes. I remember rebuilding AP's in the past on kit cars and then giving them a respray and I used to sit there for literally an hour painting the logos, then I started using a technique which the military and even modellers use which is where you essentually brush over the whole face so the paint sits within the indented logos, then wipe off the excess paint on the top with a damp cloth.. That worked 9 times out of 10 perfectly, but the way you have done it looks as if it works just as well, if not better because it looks perfect.

[Excursion]

Thank you both.

Danny - I had finished the four logos within five minutes using the syringe. If I had lacquered the calipers I would have tried the technique you described, but because I wanted the yellow under a final coat of lacquer I couldn't risk the yellow staining the basecoat.

[robp-tt]

Calipers have come up well, where did you get the bits from? When I spoke to ap about servicing mine they said not to remove the bolts that hold the two parts together, they didnt say why but they never do it,

[Excursion]

Calipers have come up well, where did you get the bits from? When I spoke to ap about servicing mine they said not to remove the bolts that hold the two parts together, they didnt say why but they never do it,

Cheers Rob. The bolts were from a local fastening firm and the rest of the parts were from AP.

The body bolts are held in with thread lock but I don't see a reason why they can't be replaced. I wanted to make sure everything was new to reduce the risk of any issues.

[andymac]

All things considered, might not torx caps might have been a better choice if there's a possibility you'll disassemble them for maintenance in the future ?

Just sayin' xx

EDIT : Gorgeous colour.

[Fraggle]

Im simply speechless..EPIC QUALITY!!

[tompeteRS]

If Carlsberg did Fiestas they'd employ Mark Stewart to build them!

[Dave G fsi]

Great work Mark

[Rs Adz]

wow am speechless stunning work ive read this from the start cant wait for the nxt up date

[Rs Adz]

If Carlsberg did Fiestas they'd employ Mark Stewart to build them!

i second that

[Excursion]

Cheers guys

[Dave5300]

inspiring and stunning as ever!

[AW0L]

amazing work Mark, any updates coming up soon???

[Excursion]

I haven't had chance to do a lot because I've been working most weekends since Christmas. The engine is progressing in the background and the only thing remaining from the original spec is now the head. Ian's taken my crank idea forward and has been in discussion from Ike at IKE Engineering, and as a result of that Ian is now looking into piston and rod packages to suit. I've requested an OEM piston because I really do not want the additional noise associated with the after market pistons. We're just about in a position to order one of Ike's cranks to make the engine 2.2 or 2.3, potentially on the standard bore.

I want to run a twin scroll Borg Warner EFR Turbo now rather than GTX, and Mark Shead has recommended the 7670 and quoted for that, though I'm in two minds whether to order the smaller frame 7064 but with a larger exhaust housing to help response further, but potentially at the risk of not making more than 500. I also want an internal wastegate model because they respond faster than an external gate.

[FRSJON]

love your work,but all sounds bloody expensive

[Excursion]

love your work,but all sounds bloody expensive

It's gone a bit silly really

[Excursion]

Engine Update
The engine is progressing in the background and the now the only thing remaining from the original spec is the head. Ian's taken my crank idea forward and has been in discussion with Ike at IKE Engineering to finalise the new crank spec, and Ian is looking into piston and rod packages to suit; I've requested an OEM piston because I really do not want the additional noise associated with the after market pistons. The crank will provide 2.2 or 2.3 depending on compression height, and that's potentially on the standard bore.



I want to run a twin scroll Borg Warner EFR Turbo now rather than GTX and Mark Shead of M.A.Developments has recommended the 7670 and quoted for one, though I'm in two minds whether to order the smaller frame 7064 to help response further but accepting that it won't support more than 500. I also want an internal wastegate model because they respond faster than an external gate.



Rear Spindles
I had my rear spindles zinc plated for corrosion resistance, but the thought of Hydrogen embrittlement has crossed my mind several times so I have purchased a new pair to put my mind at rest. Most cast iron parts on a car have historically come unfinished, on the Fiesta for example the brake drums, hubs,and spindles are all unfinished iron. The reason for this is that the strong acid used in the passivating process can cause nitrogen to diffuse within the metal and cause internal pressure within cavities which leads to a reduction in strength.

This time around I will paint the spindles. I tracked down a pair of 'new old stock' spindles which unfortunately had a little surface rust.


I left them overnight in a bucket of vinegar which stripped off the surface rust. Vinegar is typically ph5 so is unlikely to cause embrittlement during a short exposure.


Etch primed.


I tried a new paint product which aims to be a match for unfinished cast iron. It turned out to be really good!


Parts
Some parts gathered. Sorry about the mobile phone photo quality.

Caliper rebuild parts from AP. They certainly know how to charge: there's nearly £400 here but I'd estimate £50 in materials Economies of scale I suppose.


There are two types of rear anti roll bar and fixing for the Focus; the top two have use a more forgiving bush mounting system and aren't used on the sport models, whereas the bottom type uses a more solid link and is. I had a 19mm and 20mm version of the comfort bar but have just bought a 19mm of the sport bar. I'll try the 19mm to start with and upgrade later if needs me - I have plenty of choice from Mk1, Mk2, and the latest Focus. I'll drop off the new bar for powder coat this week.


I also ordered Whiteline uprated links for the sport bar. These are adjustable so are handy for pre-loading the ARB to help fine tune corner weights.


Focus RS starter motor (probably the same as a regular car).


Focus RS crankcase breather heat shield. This isn't available new/separately so I had to buy used. It's a little battered but will restore OK.


Focus RS CV joint cup. I've been fortunate enough to track down a complete set of joints which I'll use because they are considerably sturdier than those originally fitted to the Fiesta.

[fiestarsturboblack]

Looks gd as always mark. Good choice of turbo too. Wen my engine goes in rs in next couple of months il b using a EFR turbo