fiestaturbo.com

[Excursion]

Top work as always mate, I love the updates

Cheers

Clock spring
Having and tested built a successful prototype I could next modify a new clock spring to create a 'production' version.


Clock spring - Front Connection
To start I removed the ribbon cable from a second clock spring and added heat shrink to isolate the ribbon to cable joints at each end.


I dismantled the new spring and carefully 'doubled up' the terminals on each side of the body by adding the second ribbon. The I modified the exit to accommodate the second set of cables.


Given this is a safety critical part I mixed up some two part construction adhesive and used it to set the terminal blocks to ensure that no compromised connections could jeopardise the airbag system.


I then finished with heat shrink before the adhesive set.


Ribbons wound and taped ready for the next connection.


Clock spring - Rear Connection
The approach I was taking with the ribbons - winding both together - meant that one finished at a slightly different position on the clock body, so I could not double up the rear terminal. I created a new exit point by sawing a small slot in the body at a precise point, and folding the ribbon to exit through the slot.


I secured the ribbon to the body with Tiger Seal, and when the initial application had set I heaped another application on the exterior of the body to prevent damage to the ribbon if the cables are pulled/tugged etc..


Completed clock spring. The light blue arrows show the new terminals on each side of the spring. The green arrow points to the two-pin connectors I used: I scoured a scrap yard and found Audi use nice, small DIN pin size pin connectors for their sun visors, so I bought quote a lot of them to use on the project.


Cruise Control: Steering Wheel Controls
As well as the clock spring, I had also prototyped a cruise control equipped Fiesta steering wheel (cruise control was never fitted to a Fiesta prior to 2006). A new steering wheel complete with buttons was included with the kit, which I removed those use on the Fiesta.


I cut off the Focus mounting tabs - highlighted by the green arrows.


Using two part construction adhesive I bonded the switch units to the previous fabricated steering wheel bracket I.


The bracket with switches was bonded to the steering wheel, and I used some of those Audi connectors for the cable terminations; there is an extra connector required here to power the switches. I took power from the existing horn feed and colour coded the connectors with red heat shrink to indicate 12v.


The final step was to clear the airbag itself to clear the new switches. The completed wheel is on the right shown as a comparison to a standard Fiesta wheel on the left.


Instrument Cluster
Despite being nearly new and stored dry in the dark, the needles on the Ghia instrument cluster had yellowed over time. I ordered some model paint to spruce them up a bit: I tried Tamiya X-6 Orange and 'Mr Hobby' #C171 Fluorescent Red; neither did it for me.


I then had an idea to cannibalise one of the sport clusters I have and swap the needles to the Ghia cluster.


Nicely jazzed up.

[Smo]

Very nice!

[jayrs]

Excellent work as usual mark

[MK4 Rick]

Well done mate love the attention to detail

[Excursion]

Thanks guys. I have the love back for it at the moment

I've decided to teach myself TIG welding, so I've bought a nice Murex unit that fits on top of my Murex MIG. I figured that for what I would pay to have a bespoke exhaust made, I would prefer to spend the money on the equipment to make one myself i.e. a welder and metal chop saw.


I bought a new mirror trim for the N/S door, from http://www.tompeters-fordparts.co.uk


Dashboard Trim and Instrument Cluster
I bought a pair of hole punch pliers from a haberdashery outlet to punch holes in self adhesive felt pads; the plan is to use the pads on trim mounting positions to prevent noise/rattles. I have experimented with rubber O rings and washers in the past, which were OK for a time, but they eventually compress leaving trim loose thus causing the exact problem they were intended to solve.


Here is one of the punched pads stuck to an instrument cluster mount (screw) hole.


New column shroud trims. These are from a Puma as Ford only fitted 'Satin Black' to this year of Fiesta whereas the Puma got colour coded column trims. Puma/Fiesta trims are interchangeable.


I noticed on the old Fiesta trim I had that Ford had applied some reinforcement foam/plastic to two areas - see green arrows - which wasn't present on the new trims, however the alignment marks were.


I removed the material and bonded it to the new trims, and also lined them with Silent Coat Absorber 15.


Here is the instrument cluster, bezel, switches, clock, steering wheel etc. fitted. I'm very pleased with how its come together.




Rear View Mirror & Light/Moisture Sensor Mount
My previous approach to hiding the auto-dim mirror & rain sensor mount was to use black vinyl. I found that the vinyl did not have sufficient shear resistance to allow multiple removals of the rear view mirror, so I looked for another solution. I found that Dinitrol produce a professional grade windscreen paint intended to be applied at the edge of screens prior to bonding, which is exactly what I would be doing here.


I masked up the screen using a card template.


The Dinitrol kit comes with an alcohol based degreaser/adhesion promoter which is applied first. To apply the actual paint I used some adhesive buds.


I left the paint drying this afternoon ready for the mirror button and light/moisture sensor frame to be bonded on once the paint is dry.

[creator]

Wow this really does just get better and better mark the dash ect looks amazing as expected your attention to detail is unbelivable
Your a very talented chap

[willowandmikey]

Nice work Stewart it's all coming along really well

[Excursion]

Wow this really does just get better and better mark the dash ect looks amazing as expected your attention to detail is unbelivable
Your a very talented chap

Very kind of you to say, cheers

Nice work Stewart it's all coming along really well

Thank you, likewise, I am following your progress on the XR2i.

Rear View Mirror & Light/Moisture Sensor Mount - Completed
The glass paint had 'gone off' enough last night to allow bonding of the mirror and rain sensor mounts, so I left those taped up overnight. I removed the tape this morning and all was well.


New Ford rain/light sensor for a Mk3 Mondeo, to match the auto lights and wiper system I have integrated.


Mirror and sensor installed. I was liberal with my application of Tiger Seal, so both are nice and secure this time!


There is not a fastening for the mirror and sensor connectors; they are just held in stasis by cable tension, I have lined the mirror trim with Silent Coat Absorber 15 to prevent undue movement of the cables and connectors.


Mk3 Mondeo Auto-dim mirror and shrouds installed - I'm happy.


Exterior view.

[willowandmikey]

I must say the interior just gets better and better i love the fact it oozes class and that you've taken so much time on the little touches such as felt pads. Bucket seats and 15 point harnesses have their place but I just love the sophistication

[Excursion]

I must say the interior just gets better and better i love the fact it oozes class and that you've taken so much time on the little touches such as felt pads. Bucket seats and 15 point harnesses have their place but I just love the sophistication

Thank you

[SLEEMAN]

very factory look that!!

[Rhinopower]

I love the word 'haberdashery'. You are clearly as elegant with your words as you are with your handywork

[Excursion]

Thanks guys.




The crank has arrived! I ordered it last Thursday so this is timely service from I.K.Engineering.


It is a 95mm stroke Zetec crank machined from billet EN40B, which has been tested in engines to 10,000rpm - not that I'll be going above 8,500rpm. The big ends are sized for Honda bearings and my new rods will be designed to suit. The benefits of this crank for my application are the long stoke/additional capacity i.e. more torque lower in the rev range, and peace of mind from increased strength when operating with elevated cylinder pressures.

The engine will become more under-square than standard the trade off of which is greater piston ring friction due to increased rod angle, but with the advances in materials these days that's not such an issue - especially not for my ultra-hard CGI block. A great example is BMW's S54 M3 engine which is also under-square but will happily rev rev to 8,000rpm and cover 200k hard miles no problem if serviced correctly.

I'm dropping it off to my engine builder, Ian, later today.

[FRSJON]

engine parts! yay cant wait to see/read about what ian comes up with

[freak power]

My Audi S3 runs a 2.1 that has a 95mm stroke crank and 83.5 bore, very over square engine with a not so good rod ratio and angle

With my old turbo ( gtx3076r ) it revved to 8000 easy all day long and that made 531bhp@30psi, Hope to see more with a OD HTAGT3582r.

[Excursion]

Thanks guys. Chatting to Ian last night about ratios and I didn't realise that what I'm ending up with is pretty much the same as most Evo's, and they do OK

I was weighing up a short stroke motor earlier on in the build and I'm now glad I went with a long stroke.

Engine spec at the moment is:

- CGi block
- 95mm stroke billet crank
- Head to Ian's maximum spec
- Solid Inconel exhaust valves, Stainless inlets - had a look at them last night.
- Cams are not wildest spec (I want good response)
- External oil pump solution
- Twin scroll manifold and turbo (spec to be decided)
- WRC inlet with indivudal TB's
- Pectel T6

[AW0L]

mind blown...

amazing updates Mark, glad you got the love for it back.

been waiting in high antisipation for big updates

[FRSJON]

great engine spec cant wait to see it

[Rhinopower]

Are you no longer using that dry sump kit you were planning on using earlier in the build?

[FRSJON]

Are you no longer using that dry sump kit you were planning on using earlier in the build?

that was a remote pump i think mate... next on my shopping list...

[Excursion]

mind blown...

amazing updates Mark, glad you got the love for it back.

been waiting in high antisipation for big updates

Cheers

Are you no longer using that dry sump kit you were planning on using earlier in the build?

that was a remote pump i think mate... next on my shopping list...

Same kit, chaps

[SEG1]

Lovely spec mark, this will be a one of a kind fiesta .

But why the pectel t6?

[freak power]

Twin scroll EFR Turbo? or are you waiting till the very last minute as turbo development keeps growing and you want to get the best?

[Excursion]

Lovely spec mark, this will be a one of a kind fiesta .

But why the pectel t6?

Cheers! T6 is required for its multi-maps as T2 won't run ITB's well enough. Management choice is basically because I have a tuner in mind, so I go with what he likes.

Twin scroll EFR Turbo? or are you waiting till the very last minute as turbo development keeps growing and you want to get the best?

I have been looking at EFR units, but you are absolutely correct I am waiting until the last moment before buying something

[freak power]

I have been looking at EFR units, but you are absolutely correct I am waiting until the last moment before buying something

Good man

I made the mistake of buying GTX3076r when i should of got a HTA at the time. Got a Owen's HTA GT35 now so i look forward to see what it can do

[SEG1]

Lovely spec mark, this will be a one of a kind fiesta .

But why the pectel t6?

Cheers! T6 is required for its multi-maps as T2 won't run ITB's well enough. Management choice is basically because I have a tuner in mind, so I go with what he likes.

Yeah an ecu is only as good as the mapper.

I was just going to suggest a f88 I can point you in the right direction for one as well as one of the best mappers around.

Just thought with that spec the engine deserves the best!

[Excursion]

Yeah an ecu is only as good as the mapper.

I was just going to suggest a f88 I can point you in the right direction for one as well as one of the best mappers around.

Just thought with that spec the engine deserves the best!

Thanks mate, I am still open to suggestions. PM me if you get chance as I will follow it up.

[Max M4X WW]

I follow this on PistonHeads now really, but thought I should reply here as well.

Great progress and just want to see it in the metal!

[Excursion]

I follow this on PistonHeads now really, but thought I should reply here as well.

Great progress and just want to see it in the metal!

Cheers bud

Fuel Tank
To recap, this is the approach I'm taking with the petrol tank and exhaust.


Before I start either modifying a new Fiesta tank or creating a new one from scratch, I decided to see if anything standard would do the job. I tracked down an Escort RS2000 4x4 petrol tank knowing that a) it had a central recess (prop shaft and exhaust), and b) had a similar floor pan to the Fiesta.



Here's the tank next to a Fiesta tank. I now want to buy a section of Fiesta floor pan from a scrap car, so I can mock this up on the unit floor. If anyone can help and deliver the section of shell, please give me a shout.


Hi Fi
I have used an E39 5 series fuse box in the boot, and I had all the terminals re-plated to neaten them up.


I rebuilt the fuse box today, added the mega fuses, and added three power feeds for the Sinfoni amplifiers.


I have purchased the final Sinfoni amplifier, which is a 45.2x that will be used to power the small rear speakers either side of the parcel shelf.


I ordered some heavy duty velcro to stick on the bottom of each amplifier, to secure it to the boot floor carpet. I'm taking this approach so everything can be removed quite easily should that be required at some point.


Here's where I got done today. Amps mounted and power & ground wiring completed.

[Max M4X WW]

Love it, funny thing is I've not used the stereo once since driving my ZT. But that's because the exhaust is so loud and everything rattles - things I know you have addressed somewhat!

[Excursion]

Love it, funny thing is I've not used the stereo once since driving my ZT. But that's because the exhaust is so loud and everything rattles - things I know you have addressed somewhat!

Fingers crossed no rattles I plan to take this car to Italy when it's complete, so I'm aiming for something that can cover a bit of distance comfortably.

[disc]

Epic build! Congrats!

Just won a cruise control module on Ebay - a project that I delayed for ages. Is there a chance to measure for me the individual resistance of all the buttons on the steering wheel? My plan is to use radio/CD control switches on the Focus column instead modify steering wheel (it's easier and can be done in any Ford car )



Long time ago someone did this for me but he was not sure that he measured them correct :

[ben17southport]

I still can't get my head around how good this is going to be. I do have one question though Mark - Are you going to be applying any stone chip guards to the paint work around the rear arches or any other areas?

[Max M4X WW]

Love it, funny thing is I've not used the stereo once since driving my ZT. But that's because the exhaust is so loud and everything rattles - things I know you have addressed somewhat!

Fingers crossed no rattles I plan to take this car to Italy when it's complete, so I'm aiming for something that can cover a bit of distance comfortably.

I'm sure it will be perfect, I'll be using the new car in a similar way I hope - starting with Le Mans this year.

[Excursion]

Epic build! Congrats!

Thank you. Let me see if I can get to this today.

I still can't get my head around how good this is going to be. I do have one question though Mark - Are you going to be applying any stone chip guards to the paint work around the rear arches or any other areas?

Thanks Ben. The entire underside is covered in sealer, but the car won't ever be used in the rain.

I'm sure it will be perfect, I'll be using the new car in a similar way I hope - starting with Le Mans this year.

Ahh, is this the MX5 or something else? Did I read somewhere that you are thinking of selling the ZT?