fiestaturbo.com

[Excursion]

Instead of using ptfe on the fittings I would use loctite as it will get hot and possibly just deteriorate quite quickly. I got lots of the stuff could send you a tube if you want foc I used to nab it from work as its £30 a tub

I will pay for some of that

[rsturbonutter]

Can send you some if you want mark pm me your address. Its 302 loctite available in any local bss store.

[Tweek]

Oh really? I heard it was the ideal stuff to stop leaks Doh!

Not much happened this weekend just gone... I removed and refitted the clutch pedal with new quadrant, that's an evil task as some will know! The car already came with the manual adjust pedal, I just put the larger quadrant in for the AP clutch. Now I've done that though, the pedal sits a very slightly too high as the end of the quadrant is resting on the inside of the pedal, not by much. As long as the clutch releases it won't be a problem. No pics of that, you all know what a clutch pedal looks like

Also refitted and tidied the rest of the car wiring... All that remains "open" now is the ECU to Car loom plug which needs investigating still. Once that's rectified, I'll install the new chrome plate I have for the map sensor and ECU-controlled fan relay etc.

Exhaust is back after being modified. Looks ideal and "should" fit, fingers crossed.

[Tweek]

Small update today. I've finally bolted the turbo in and don't plan on taking it back out now . The radiator also fits nicely and is fitted/removed via the front. It's hassle taking the bumper and intercooler off if I need to change it but I'd rather do that then start disconnecting the turbo & exhaust. Saves money on gaskets too.

The oem PAS cooler is currently loosely mounted to the chassis behind the rad for now until I work out what to do with it.

Big hole:



Rad fitted along with keeping the bonnet catch. The support bracket actually holds the rad at the bottom too but I'll fit something in between to soften vibrations:



More clearance now:



Fingered:



Just about enough room in between to fit twin 8" fans.



I'm starting to get the hang of all this piss-arsing around to make things fit now

One last job of the day, I removed the chunky bracket from the FRS decat downpipe and heatwrapped it to protect the starter motor. Quite a tidy job if I do say so myself

[hb69]

Would be cool if this worked in time for combe

[Tweek]

It won't be Even if it is on the road, MOT' etc, I won't be taxing it til the 1st of May at the earliest.

[jayrs]

Good work there Wayne, had to laugh at 'fingered' ah simple things

[jonyb4]

cracking stuff!

[Tweek]

Spent most of the day running around getting missing screws, bolts, gaskets and new tools lol. I did manage to fit the exhaust though. The mods that Powerflow did for me just by my verbal description were spot on. It's not glamorous but it fits and they did a pretty good job making what I wanted blindly

The joint between downpipe and midsection is rather close to the driveshaft boot, only about an inch and a half clearance.



Flexi fatness does foul the S-brace marginally... nothing a grinder can't fix



For some reason though the tailpipe is very wonky. Nothing to do with the mods at the other end, from what I can see it's a problem with the hanger by the beam. The final bend in the exhaust is pushed too far to the chassis on the driver's side.



Nothing major, I'll try and space it off the rear valace. it will do until I get a new custom system made up

[- Danny Boy -]

Nice work

Shame about the exhaust, is it worth doing a Clarkson mod and HAMMER it until it fits properly

[rs220bhp]

Must just need adjusting. This is how it used to sit on mine.

[Tweek]

Yeah, it's the hanger mounting on the car I think pulling it over, I'll sort it out. Cheers

[Dave5300]

looks good mate really getting there now

[andymac]

I'd be inclined to wrap the exhaust around the driveshaft area mate, I've melted a poly exhaust mount on mine in a similar position

[Tweek]

I'll buy some more then

[Tweek]

So, I've finally got to the bottom of the earthing issue, it is infact the ISCV. With everything else plugged in except the ISCV the car behaves normally and fine. With the ISCV plugged in, ignition on is fine, ignition off and the car stays live!

Power at the ISCV with the ignition on was 1.0V, turning the ignition off pushed it to 9.4V???

The +ve wire for this is connected to the black/green wire, fed from the injection relay. The -ve side goes to the ecu pin which is the correct pin. Also set up correctly on the ECU to read it too. I've also wired it up backwards to see if that made a difference, it did not.

The ISCV worked fine on the old car so I'm confused

[Tweek]

Well, I've taken the power feed for the ISCV off the injection relay and straight onto ignition feed which appears to have solved that bad earth. Another problem I had but can't seem to cure is having no crank signal! I've tried 2 sensors now and still nothing :'(

[jonyb4]

good job, im sure you'll sort the other issue also

[Tweek]

I've worked it out... My CPS has an automatic transmission housing so the sensor isn't sitting close enough to the flywheel. Gearbox off job... and clutch... and flywheel... f**k SAKE

[Rhinopower]

Isn't there a longer sensor you can use?

[Tweek]

Not that I know of?

[Rhinopower]

I think you might be able to use a cvh sensor

[Rhinopower]

Forget that, an auto one sits at the wrong angle anyway

[jonyb4]

i dont understand why all the above needs removing if the CPS is wrong, cant you just pull it out and remove the spacer?

[Rhinopower]

Spacer bolts in from flywheel side

[SEG1]

Tweek this happens to the best of us. I done the same thing when I first build my zt.
Had to drop the gearbox clutch and flywheel to change a £10 crank sesnor bush, the 2.0l and 1.8l have different crank sensor bushes that position the crank sensor differently, depending on what flywheel your using you will need the right bush. In my case I had a 2.0l crank sensor bush with a 1.8l flywheel so the sensor was positioned 10mm passed the pick up ring on the back of the flywheel, so no crank signal when I turned the key.

[jayrs]

at least it's affix that ain't gunna cost a fortune mate, even if it is a crap load of work

[Tweek]

Well, after comparing my CPS against photos of others, it's definitely wrong.

I spent this evening removing the box, clutch and flywheel and have indeed got the wrong holder. The CPS wasn't even poking out of the holder and nowhere near the flywheel holes either




And here's the problematic holder. You can tell from the pic it's nowhere near the flywheel holes. It also points at the outer rim of the flywheel too rather than the timing holes. Even if a longer sensor was fitting it still wouldn't have worked.



Found this pic on google too, shows the difference between the 2 holders, quite a bit!

[jonyb4]

oh good effort

[Tweek]

Collected the new holder today and fitted it. After refitting the flywheel I looked through the hole from the engine side and I could see the timing holes clearly. Tested the sensor position etc so it should all be ok now!



Gearbox is bolted back up to the engine and the car so it's nearly done, not too bad a setback.

Oh, and these arrived today too for the intake route

[Dave5300]

bit of a pain to get at alright, at least shes one step closer to booooooost good work

[hobomassiv]

Collected the new holder today and fitted it.

Hi Bud

did you get this from ford? I ordered one form my local stealers the other day and now im worried its not correct

[Tweek]

I did yes, do you want the part number?

[hobomassiv]

Ill see what one comes back from ford and if its not right ill give you a PM, cheers!

[Tweek]

Yellow hoses are starting to go in, needs a couple of alterations but otherwise I've managed to measure and order everything correctly

More importantly, this happened today:




No exhaust, coolant or hoses yet so only a brief run but other than the noise it was smooth and so was the throttle application

Now to finish it!