fiestaturbo.com

[Project]

What's here?
- 17th April '06 why/what's this and a checklist of things needed
- 17th April '06 about the wiring loom
- 18th April '06 photos
- 19th April '06 shopping trip (and of course, I forget to buy the most important supply - solder. Duh!)

(everything to do with the conversion itself is being lumped into this post so all the important information is at the top of the page - feel free to ask questions/point out my mistakes below )
17th April '06 - What's this?


Right, that's it. I've managed to avoid it till now but I can't bear the sad look on her cute, matt-black little face. The doey-eyed "please fit me to your car" look the Puma dash surround is giving me. That "you know you want to gaze deeply into my dials" look the Mk5 dash clocks are giving me...



Yup, I've decided to fit the Mk4 dash into Shed 3.

I'm going to (try to) keep a bit of a diary on how the Project's going, starting with the list of parts needed 'cos I've just sifted through a whole room-load of stuff to see what I need to buy...

(You can see the old conversion pics/notes/scribblings here).

Check list of things I need...

Mk4/5 Dashboard, including all trims *check*
Mk4/5 A-pillar trims *check*
Mk4/5 Steering column shroud *check*
Mk4/5 Dash clocks and surround *check*
All the screws, bolts and nuts! *check* (I think)
Mk4/5 Heater box, fan, matrix, pollen filter assembly, and any aircon components if you are going to try fitting that as well *check* (but I need a new pollen filter, and the pollen filter shroud is in a bad way...)
Everything that screws into the dash - heater controls, headunit mounts, and so on *check*
Multiplugs and a foot or so of wiring from the dash clocks, heater controls, time clock, fog light(s), heated screen(s) and other gubbins switches. Note that Mk4 and Mk5 wiring is substantially different in places - make sure everything comes from the same marque of car wherever possible *check* (kinda - time to build a wiring loom up...)
Silicone sealant (not got that yet...)
Mk5 Fiesta fuel tank, pump and cradle assembly (not yet).

Wiring loom

First job is to dissect the old wiring loom (pulled out of Shed 1) and turn it into a loom that can be plugged into the existing car loom without too much hacking around so I can do as much work on it as possible away from the car (I don't like working on Shed 3 in the middle of the freezing night, despite what other people might think

Tomorrow's shopping list then: solder, large and small heatshrink, about 100m of wire (again!), endless zip ties, zip ties with cable markers, small spirawrap, and a CD writing pen (for the markable zip ties), and a 40A SPST relay. I reckon I can get all that for under £30...

Any questions? Anyone care...?

(pics will be added shortly... Maybe...)



17th April '06 - About the wiring loom


Checking through the things I need to have for the conversion, I've been thinking about how I'm going to go about doing it.

Although I should have a few days free before I go back to Uni to get started on the conversion, the wiring is probably going to be very slow going because it's a case of practically building a unique loom from scratch, so I'm going to put aside a good 12 hours to get it all together and tested to see if all my joints are good. I'll have to test it again once it's actually fitted into the car of course, so it could all turn out to be wrong and need major rewiring again.

I'm also worried about making a mess out of things. The last time I converted to the Mk4 dash, I didn't have any heating for the first couple of weeks because there's an error/confusing bit in the Mk4 wiring diagrams; I even jacked an on/off switch so I could either have freezing cold or boiling hot air. Not ideal even in the coldest weather...

So the first thing I need to do is work out what this loom's got to do, and how it's going to be set up so I can plug it into the car's wiring as simply as possible...

1. The loom needs to plug into:

the fan blower
the fan resistor
the heater control panel
the time clock/alarm LED thingbob
the heated screen and fog light switches
dash clocks
heater matrix flow control solenoid
err, the car...

2. The loom needs the following connections from the car:

fuel level
speedometer signal
rev counter
engine temperature
permanent live (~3A)
ignition live (40A - includes the fan circuit)
earth (40A)
accessory (radio) circuit (for the Mk5 clocks)
lights on signal
headlights on signal
indicator signal
oil pressure signal
ABS signal
handbrake signal
airbag signal
door ajar signal (one feed from all switches and boot)
3 blank signals to run from the time clock to the front valance (for the Ghia temperature gauge - not going to be fitted yet)

3. The dash clocks conversion loom can be wired in separately to the rest of the loom to cut down the amount of extra wiring needed - the majority of the signals have already been brought up to the clock connector from when I installed the alarm - the only one missing is the accessory signal... I think...

You know, I don't think that huuge post helped on little bit...

Back to the original Mk3->Mk5 clocks conversion guide I wrote a while back then.



17th April '06


Note to self: pics needed - dash, heater box, dash clocks, pollen filter box, and wiring loom.



18th April '06 - Photos


Right, time for some pics...

The dash


Puma surround and Mk5 sports dials


Early Puma dials with aircon and recirc flap switches

(the extra switches won't be used at the moment, so I might try and think of other things they could be used for. Like an oil slick button or something...)

Heater box


Heater box flap control cable and fan connector plug

(huhhuh, I said flap control...)

Fan blower resistor connector

Note the "fix" - the wiring burns out on the standard plugs, so they've been replaced with heavy duty wire and gold-plated, heatshrink'd spade connectors.

Mk3 and Mk4 heater matrix size comparison

Mk3 matrix on the left. Mine's bigger than yours... And hotter.

Heater matrix in the heater box


Other odds and sods

Top-left to bottom-right, ish...:
> Mk4 steering column shroud
> Mk4 A-pillar trim, covered in leatherette vinyl stuff
> Blanking plate and rubber seal - fits where the Mk3 fan blower lives. Heater matrix feed and return pipes pass through this panel.
> Heater control solenoid and pipework.
> Pollen filter box with filter (take a look at the next couple of pics to find out how to trim the box to fit the Mk3 scuttle panel).
> (top right) Damper-blocks - fit behind the Mk4 doorcards to reduce the "thwank" when you close the doors.
> Mk4 Ghia courtesy light. Well, it'd be rude not to really...

Pollen filter box mods


To fit the pollen filter under the scuttle panel on the Mk3, you have to trim the o/s end off the housing and cut a notch in the top (see second pic).

I'm also going to have to cut off the n/s front corner and re-seal the hole I make to allow me to keep the bulkhead metal plate (which holds the wiring loom and keeps the hot engine bay air away from the heater box intake so you can have cool air in the car when you're sitting in traffic).

Shed 1's old wiring loom


Dash clock connectors - Mk3 (black), Mk4 (blue and white) and Mk5 (grey)

... plus a looooad of extra signal wires for the Mk4 and 5 connectors.

Fog light, heated screen and dash clock wiring

Nothing much special here, until you try to connect them up and find the colour codes for the fog lights are a bit... Weird.

Heater controller (bottom) and fan switch (top) plugs


What a mess...

The loom in Shed 1 was about 2 inches thick where it passed under the fuse box. Most of that was redundant wires I was too scared to cut out... Eep...

Coming next - what I spent £35 on at Maplins yesterday. Eep...



19th April '06 - shopping at Maplins


Right, sorted through the bag of Maplins shopping - this is mainly standard stuff I buy before any wiring project. Posting here mainly 'cos I'm bored



(top left to bottom right, ish...)
- couple of metres of small heatshrink
- large heatshrink for covering high current cable joins and male/female spade connectors
- male and female blade connectors - I'll be soldering wires into these, not just crimping - so they can handle current and strain better
- 100 metres of 6A cable
- Zip-ties with tags - useful for marking up bundles of cables (I'll use white electrical tape to label individual cables - less chance of it falling off).
- fuses - 35A for the fan circuit and about 7.5A (I think?) for the rest of the ignition-switched circuitry which will be activated via the relay straight off the +ve busbar - I'll be taking a new feed off the +ve busbar (the main supply cables from the battery) instead of adding more electrical load to existing circuits. All other circuits will already be fused, e.g. the clock and accessory lives, or they're only providing a signal, e.g. door ajar circuit
- electrical tape. Hopefully won't be needed but just in case I need to tidy any joints, waterproof anything, etc
- 40A SPST relay - this will provide the ignition-switched live for the cooling fan. Strictly speaking, I should have two relays 'cos the fan and other bits and bobs can draw a bit over 40A, but because I don't run front fogs or driving lamps the total peak load isn't as high as an FRST, XR2i, etc.
- standard zip ties. Ziptastic
- small spirawrap - this is great stuff Use it to bundle wiring looms together, and the small stuff - when wrapped tightly enough - lets you bend your loom into a shape so it can pass around the car, and you can unwrap it when you need to add wires, fix things, etc.
- high current cable for the fan wiring.

Things I forgot...
- solder. How the crap did I forget that?!

I think I might have to build up three separate looms instead of one; the fan blower/control loom, the dash clocks loom (so I don't need to run pointlessly long wires up and down the car's loom - most of the feeds are already up there and don't affect the heater wiring at all) and a loom for the dash switches, clock and other bits and bobs. They should all be fairly easy to wire in - the heater blower loom should only need 5 wires to connect into the car loom; permanent live, ignition live, earth, rev counter and lights on.

Next job: dissect the old wiring loom and remove the multiplugs I need to put onto the new loom(s), then start working out how many looms I need, what connections the looms need, and how I'm going to build them up... Eeeeh, I'd rather be a stamp collector I think

/al

[Capri]

Ahhh the mk4 dash saga. Enjoy yourself (again) mate

[Badgerboy]

Shall be following this with interest! I've just scored a garage, so the fez will be receiving a good gutting and rebuild. (Plus a 2L with throttlebodies!)

Thanks Al, I'm sure this will as informative as ever.

[Project]

[everything in this post has been moved into the first post in this thread to make it as easy as possible to read about my dash bodging efforts )]

[Badgerboy]

You really do pick the fun jobs!

Wiring can be a nightmare at times, merely fixing my central locking reminded me of the spiderweb of 'custom' wiring I have behind my dash. One day I'll pull it all out and do it properly!

RE the Mk4 heaters. I take it they don't use a mechanical flap to select hot and cold then?

[Project]

Badgerboy: nope, there's a solenoid controlled by the rev counter pulse via the heater panel which opens and closes to allow varying amounts of hot water through the heater matrix to control the air temperature.

Air-con equipped cars have a similar setup to regulate the temperature of the air con matrix, which (I think) sits in front of the heater matrix. There's a drain pipe hanging out the bottom of the heater box which goes to a drain hole in the Mk4 floor via a little rubber pipe to drain off condensation and water which finds it's way into the heater box. Talking of which, I'll probably just tuck that under the carpet and hope it doesn't get too wet in there (bodge #1 ).

/al

[Project]

[everything in this post has been moved into the first post in this thread to make it as easy as possible to read about my dash bodging efforts )]

[Badgerboy]

Badgerboy: nope, there's a solenoid controlled by the rev counter pulse via the heater panel which opens and closes to allow varying amounts of hot water through the heater matrix to control the air temperature.
/al

Why does that seem needlessly complex? I like my flaps manually operated thank you very much!

[ianFRST]

so your keeping it then

[Jay]

Sounds like your going to do a good job!

I definately want information on how to sort out the heater control solenoid! If i connect mine up as per Haynes then it just shoves out cold air

So i've got it on hot at the moment to get me warm in the mornings.. then if it gets tooooo hot... heater off and open windows! lol

BTW... You missed silicone sealant off your shopping list

[Project]

Sounds like your going to do a good job!
I definately want information on how to sort out the heater control solenoid! If i connect mine up as per Haynes then it just shoves out cold air

Just take a signal off the rev counter and connect it to the white/black wire at the heater control multiplug

[Project]

[everything in this post has been moved into the first post in this thread to make it as easy as possible to read about my dash bodging efforts )]

[Jay]

Looks awesome mate!

Wheres the rev counter feed? I'd guess behind the clocks.. if so.. what colour is it?
Black & Green IIRC? But I cant remember
Must get a new haynes!
Mines gone awol

[Project]

Jay246: rev counter feed is green on the Mk3, and white/black on the Mk4 (pin 8 on the blue connector).

[Project]

[everything in this post has been moved into the first post in this thread to make it as easy as possible to read about my dash bodging efforts ;o)]

[RS_Raz]

I have some solder you can borrow mate, dont use all of it though 'cause it's the only tube I have!
I also have loads of zip ties that chloe nicked from work if you need any more.
Still some wire left from those reels I got from college too.



Oh, and plenty of fuses

[Project]

I have some solder you can borrow mate, dont use all of it though 'cause it's the only tube I have!
I also have loads of zip ties that chloe nicked from work if you need any more.
Still some wire left from those reels I got from college too.



Oh, and plenty of fuses

Thanks fella but I'd better buy my own solder - I reckon I'll use a few metres' worth for this one :|

Anyway, go to bed - you have to fit my steering column tomorrow!

[RS_Raz]

I have some solder you can borrow mate, dont use all of it though 'cause it's the only tube I have!
I also have loads of zip ties that chloe nicked from work if you need any more.
Still some wire left from those reels I got from college too.



Oh, and plenty of fuses

Thanks fella but I'd better buy my own solder - I reckon I'll use a few metres' worth for this one :|

Anyway, go to bed - you have to fit my steering column tomorrow!

Gota get my tyres swapped onto the new wheels tomorrow and then work and before that I've gota meet Jon! I'll give you a hand if I have time

You better go to bed then!

I'll take some centre caps with that steering column please

[MAD_Adamski]

at this point AL if you can work out the mk3-mk5 wiring (ie mk3 green-mk5 blue):-

frnt fog
rear fog
rear heated screen
clock

you would save me major hassle!!!!

as this is whats up with mine was booked in for it to be done but the fella as not picked it up for 5 weeks

would really appriciate it as said b4 then i can get my FRST on the road

[Project]

Raz: off to bed after a shower - still got grit from the road in my hair (eurgh).

Adamski: I'll try and figure it out for you when I plumb the loom together

[chris-fiesta]

good luck with it m8, i WAS going to do the conversion myslef till i saw this post

[Rhinopower]

Proj, what are you doing about your alarm, of does the ignition side of the loom stay completely seperate?

[MAD_Adamski]

Adamski: I'll try and figure it out for you when I plumb the loom together [/size]

diamond AL

[Project]

Proj, what are you doing about your alarm, of does the ignition side of the loom stay completely seperate?

Why would my alarm cause me any problems?

None of what I do will be affected by the alarm wiring as the alarm and immobiliser only affects the circuits which control the running of the car. None of these circuits need to be interfered with, and none of them provide feeds I need for any of the dash, so I'll be able to just carry on as normal.

[Rhinopower]

ah ok, jsut trying to uinderstand what you were doing wether it was the whole interior loom and fusebox etc or wether it was seperate

[Project]

ah ok, jsut trying to uinderstand what you were doing wether it was the whole interior loom and fusebox etc or wether it was seperate

Rhino, you're very, very confusing sometimes... And scary. Definitely scary. Yeah... That's the word...

[xrsi]

oi ya lazy sod, get this updated!

how is the coversion comming along mate?

[lucasdemoley]

Cool thread, although looks abit dawnting. Is the parts list at the top everything needed then? PLs take pics of what you have to cut to get the heater matrix to fit through the bulkhead. I have a phobia of wiring, is it ok to do this without removing the wiring from the car, and will i really suffer if i try it? Can i just use block connectors, or should i solder everything? (cant solder very well!)

[chris-fiesta]

hows this coming along fella?

[rich_frst]

Project - how much do you charge to help on an install for one of these??

rich

[lucasdemoley]

Argg!!! I cut the stupid mk3 connector off for the dials and now have the trouble of trial and error to sort them out as there are a few the same colour! Did you manage to get together the wiring for the fogs etc as askec for above, as i am also stuck on this bit and it would be really helpful. Pm sent to try and find out!

[Dracos]

so how did you actually get on with this? lol

[lucasdemoley]

This is a pain in the arse to do, but tbh i could do it sooo much faster second time round. Lots of niggly bits but not too too bad!

[Gazeddy]

anybody have a chart for which pins go where for this

[Project]

so how did you actually get on with this? lol

I, um, haven't actually touched it in 9 months

Think I'll sell it now :(