Woohoo! It flies! Update on Page 7/8 :D
Didn't reply last night because i didn't have anything helpful to say, and well i dont now but glad to hear your not breaking it,
would be a shame after everything you've put into it.
I know its easy for us all to sit back and say stick with it when very few of us are in your position, and truth be told if i was in your position i would have probably given up long ago
i was gonna fit my electric pack items the other day but gave up as soon as i took the fusebox out
Good luck with it and hope this finally gets the problem fixed.
I know its easy for us all to sit back and say stick with it when very few of us are in your position, and truth be told if i was in your position i would have probably given up long ago
Good luck with it and hope this finally gets the problem fixed.
- ju575
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andyhardy :FezzR :gotta love the fiesta fuse box![]()
It's a bloody mess to work with!![]()
Oh well - hopefully won't have to touch it again after I've finished finding this fault
Cheers,
Andy
tell me about it, after all my additions the fuse box would no longer fit in position
wont be like that if it ever does go back together lol
- FezzR
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FezzR :andyhardy :FezzR :gotta love the fiesta fuse box![]()
It's a bloody mess to work with!![]()
Oh well - hopefully won't have to touch it again after I've finished finding this fault
Cheers,
Andy
tell me about it, after all my additions the fuse box would no longer fit in positionhad to all be held in with cable ties,
wont be like that if it ever does go back together lol
Where do you plan on relocating it mate? Over the winter I'm stripping my car out so I plan to remove alot of the un-necessary wiring in the car (stereo etc.) - relocating the fusebox somewhere handier would be a bonus
Cheers,
Andy
Carburetted CVH p-p-powa!
- andyhardy
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FezzR :well if plans stay as they are (not bloody likely) most of it wont be needed
and was would be left would probably be passenger side, floor or bulk head
Cool - sounds like your plans are sort of similar to mine, I've figured that with the engine and turbo being so loud on this car that the stereo might as well go along with most of the interior and get it all caged up. The carputer will be staying but will be relocated and used for telemetry/data logging and video purposes only
The plan is to make the car a full on track-day toy, possibly even losing it's road legal status, the engine and transmission side of things are sorted, just shell stiffening, chassis and suspension to sort out
Cheers,
Andy
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- andyhardy
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andyhardy :FezzR :well if plans stay as they are (not bloody likely) most of it wont be needed
and was would be left would probably be passenger side, floor or bulk head
Cool - sounds like your plans are sort of similar to mine, I've figured that with the engine and turbo being so loud on this car that the stereo might as well go along with most of the interior and get it all caged up. The carputer will be staying but will be relocated and used for telemetry/data logging and video purposes only
The plan is to make the car a full on track-day toy, possibly even losing it's road legal status, the engine and transmission side of things are sorted, just shell stiffening, chassis and suspension to sort out
Cheers,
Andy
yea my original plan was to combine yours and marks ideas so all out every toy possible, computerise everything, then fez went off the road and brought the audi, why try and make a fez comfutable and full of toys when you have an audi, so fez is hopefully gonna get rebuilt (bare shell) as a track/rally car, need to strip it down more and make sure the inner sills arent too shagged tho
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It would've driven you nuts not to have driven it on full boost....keep plugging Mandy! I found my problem today...my brand new, out of the box fuel pump doesn't work!

- heeman10
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heeman10 :It would've driven you nuts not to have driven it on full boost....keep plugging Mandy! I found my problem today...my brand new, out of the box fuel pump doesn't work!![]()
Sorry to hear about that mate - hopefully you can get it replaced on warranty?
I've got a bit of an update for you all.
I have been keeping a track of my progress through the continuity testing of the loom I've been doing today on passionford.com, the post can be found here:
Engine loom testing post on passionford.com
The continuity testing is basically a test to make sure that an electrical connection is being made between the ECU plug and the sensor connectors themselves.
This is my continuity test sheet as it stands now:
Pin number Description Continuity Status
1 Earth Yes
19 Earth Yes
2 Lambda Sensor N/A
20 Positive Power Feed Yes
3 Crank Position Sensor Yes
21 Not Used N/A
4 Crank Position Sensor Yes
22 Knock Sensor Yes
5 Distributor Connection ?
23 Distributor Connection ?
6 Knock Sensor with Earth bonding shield Yes
24 Ignition Module (pin3) Yes
7 Canister Purge Valve N/A
25 Ignition Module (pin6) Yes
8 Electronic Control Loom ?
26 Not Used N/A
9 Linked to ECU pin 30 (MAP and TPS) Yes
27 Electronic Control Loom ?
10 EFI Power Delay Relay Yes
28 Fuel Pump Relay Yes
11 MAP Sensor Yes
29 Coolant Temperature Sensor Yes
12 Not Used N/A
30 MAP Sensor and TPS Yes
13 Octane Adjust N/A
31 Air Charge Temperature Sensor Yes
14 Octane Adjust N/A
32 Injector 2 Yes
15 MAP Sensor Yes
33 Injector 3 Yes
16 Boost Control Valve ?
34 Idle Speed Control Valve Yes
17 TPS Yes
35 Injector 1 Yes
18 Injector 4 Yes
Pin-outs still needed to be tested/eliminated from testing:
ECU Pin 16 - Boost Control Valve ? - surely this should connect to the AMAL valve lead which came out with the loom? Or is that just an earth lead?
ECU Pin 27 - Electronic Control Loom ? - what does this or should this have connected to? I'm assuming this is something to do with the interior loom which my car doesn't use?
ECU Pin 8 - Electronic Control Loom ? - same question as for ECU Pin 27
ECU Pin 5 - Distributor Connection ? - what should this be connecting to or is this something else my loom doesn't have?
ECU Pin 23 - Distributor Connection ? - same question as for ECU Pin 5
The next bit of continuity testing I'm going to do (once eliminating the last 5 pins on the ECU) are to test all the Earth's from the loom backwards, once that's done I'm going to take the insulation off the whole loom and manually inspect each wire and solder/repair whatever I think warrants it.
Cheers,
Andy
Carburetted CVH p-p-powa!
- andyhardy
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I have now checked the whole loom out in terms of ECU plug to sensor connectors continuity (checking for breaks in the line).
All of them were as they should be except for Pin 16 - Boost Valve control (in layman's terms - the AMAL valve activation wire).
I thought that it seemed odd that there was a break in the line so I rolled the insulation back and found that there was another lead within the insulation. Upon peeling it back further I managed to expose the end of that wire. I could see no joins in the wire that was connected to the AMAL valve.
Anyway - out of interest I thought I'd check and see if the lead that had been tucked away was the correct lead to the ECU for the AMAL valve, and guess what - it bloody well is!
I'll make sure I rewire that into the car properly when I put it all back together so I'm going to cut the other cable and loop that back into the insulation, the other lead to the AMAL valve goes to a switch within the car which activates the high/low boost setting. I don't think this was the cause of my problem with the car not firing though but it's a good thing that I found it as I'd be peed off with not being able to change to high boost via the switch!
My bets are on the problem being caused by the dodgy phase sensor connector found here...
The plastic surround for the connector had been broken. Normally this wouldn't cause any problem but these connectors use a metal clip to hold them in place on the sensor, and in this case because of the broken casing the clip itself looks like it could easily have moved within the plastic casing and touched across the sensor terminals causing a short out and thus causing my ballache! Of course, with the loom out of the car and not connected to anything it's impossible to say if that's the case or not, but I'm replacing the connector with one I have from an XR2i fuel rail I have lying around
Some progress at least with it - once I've done the rewiring of that connector and checked the Earth's for continuity I'm going to check the multimeter readings from the phase sensor itself to see if all is ok with it considering the damage that's been done to the connector.
Cheers,
Andy
All of them were as they should be except for Pin 16 - Boost Valve control (in layman's terms - the AMAL valve activation wire).
I thought that it seemed odd that there was a break in the line so I rolled the insulation back and found that there was another lead within the insulation. Upon peeling it back further I managed to expose the end of that wire. I could see no joins in the wire that was connected to the AMAL valve.
Anyway - out of interest I thought I'd check and see if the lead that had been tucked away was the correct lead to the ECU for the AMAL valve, and guess what - it bloody well is!
I'll make sure I rewire that into the car properly when I put it all back together so I'm going to cut the other cable and loop that back into the insulation, the other lead to the AMAL valve goes to a switch within the car which activates the high/low boost setting. I don't think this was the cause of my problem with the car not firing though but it's a good thing that I found it as I'd be peed off with not being able to change to high boost via the switch!
My bets are on the problem being caused by the dodgy phase sensor connector found here...
The plastic surround for the connector had been broken. Normally this wouldn't cause any problem but these connectors use a metal clip to hold them in place on the sensor, and in this case because of the broken casing the clip itself looks like it could easily have moved within the plastic casing and touched across the sensor terminals causing a short out and thus causing my ballache! Of course, with the loom out of the car and not connected to anything it's impossible to say if that's the case or not, but I'm replacing the connector with one I have from an XR2i fuel rail I have lying around
Some progress at least with it - once I've done the rewiring of that connector and checked the Earth's for continuity I'm going to check the multimeter readings from the phase sensor itself to see if all is ok with it considering the damage that's been done to the connector.
Cheers,
Andy
Carburetted CVH p-p-powa!
- andyhardy
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well .. this sounds good... no other words needed..
and measuring to the frequency you're posting.. and the posts themselves..
you seem to have become from grumpy to enthousiastic again..... great to hear..!!!!
keep up the work
and measuring to the frequency you're posting.. and the posts themselves..
you seem to have become from grumpy to enthousiastic again..... great to hear..!!!!
keep up the work
*If you start to see in Black and White, you know you're pulling enough G's*
- Jur
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Should be running this afternoon by the sounds of it!
Good luck mate, loom problems are a right nightmare.
Steve
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Well done Mandy (a) for getting back into it and (b) making the progress you have. Did Grove gain access to that AMAL valve multiplug? Seems funny for it to be left in that state if they did
I found the problem with my pump. Took the tank off, pump out, and the damn multiplug between the pump and tank cap connector wasn't plugged in!
It's now plugged in, back on the car and squirting fuel out into a jug in my engine bay
Progress!! Give us the necessary updates when you put it all back in the car 
I found the problem with my pump. Took the tank off, pump out, and the damn multiplug between the pump and tank cap connector wasn't plugged in!
- heeman10
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I'm now jury-rigging the loom back up into the car to see if it will now fire - as soon as I get it running the car will be put away and tomorrow taken up to my Dad's for help with tidying of the engine loom (he's an electromechanical engineer so pretty good at this type of thing!
).
One more wire (positive power feed into fuse box bus-bar) and that's it - it's all ready for testing! Finger's crossed guys!
Cheers,
Andy
One more wire (positive power feed into fuse box bus-bar) and that's it - it's all ready for testing! Finger's crossed guys!
Cheers,
Andy
Carburetted CVH p-p-powa!
- andyhardy
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*waits*
*crosses fingers*
...um, if this doesn't work, no-one talk to him on msn unless it's to give him e-hugs. OK?
*crosses fingers*
...um, if this doesn't work, no-one talk to him on msn unless it's to give him e-hugs. OK?
- MotorcyclesFish
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Car: 1984 Ford Capri
andyhardy :I'm now jury-rigging the loom back up into the car to see if it will now fire - as soon as I get it running the car will be put away and tomorrow taken up to my Dad's for help with tidying of the engine loom (he's an electromechanical engineer so pretty good at this type of thing!).
One more wire (positive power feed into fuse box bus-bar) and that's it - it's all ready for testing! Finger's crossed guys!![]()
Cheers,
Andy

- Brycey
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IT'S ALIVE!
Putting the alternator back on it now so we can do continued testing with the jury-rigged loom, once we've finished doing that I'll rewire it properly and take it for a couple of short test-runs and wire the AMAL valve back in semi-properly.
Tomorrow is going to be spent at my Dad's making use of his nicer soldering irons!
Cheers,
Andy
Putting the alternator back on it now so we can do continued testing with the jury-rigged loom, once we've finished doing that I'll rewire it properly and take it for a couple of short test-runs and wire the AMAL valve back in semi-properly.
Tomorrow is going to be spent at my Dad's making use of his nicer soldering irons!
Cheers,
Andy
Carburetted CVH p-p-powa!
- andyhardy
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- MotorcyclesFish
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- Kartracer69
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Alternator belt stops play unfortunately - due to the 'fixed' CPS bracket using a new stud to hold the CPS in place, the end of the thread is fouling on the alternator belt (hard to explain without photo's).
I've tried adjusting the belt with less slack in it but now the car just fires for a short while then the alt belt starts squealing.
Not got many options left with this part of the engine so I could seriously be delayed by another week or so - just what I don't bloody need!
Ho-hum, someone upstairs really doesn't like me.
Cheers,
Andy
I've tried adjusting the belt with less slack in it but now the car just fires for a short while then the alt belt starts squealing.
Not got many options left with this part of the engine so I could seriously be delayed by another week or so - just what I don't bloody need!
Ho-hum, someone upstairs really doesn't like me.
Cheers,
Andy
Carburetted CVH p-p-powa!
- andyhardy
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Ahh man,
This threads like a roller coaster, full of ups and downs.
Hopefully will come to an end though, feeling GREAT!
Steve
This threads like a roller coaster, full of ups and downs.
Hopefully will come to an end though, feeling GREAT!
Steve
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