fiestaturbo.com

[trecoll]

YEAR: 1997 (R)

MAKE & MODEL: Ford Fiesta LX 1.7

MILEAGE: currently 110,000, but using it daily and do about 250 miles a week.

MOT: Feb 2012

TAX: March 2011

DESCRIPTION: First of all, sorry for all the text, but with a car like this I feel it’s best to let you know everything beforehand! I’ve tried to format as best as I can, but on a forum it can get quite tricky!!

Bodywork is in generally good condition for the age of the car. I have owned the car since April 2008, when it originally had a 1.25 Zetec-se engine on 77,000 and the bottom end being knackered.

I used it for 6 months, burning oil and smoking badly, before I replaced with another 1.25 Zetec-se engine. That engine then lasted a year and a half, before finally going bang too! In September 2010 a 1.7L (125PS) Ford Puma conversion was carried out, by me and two mates. At the same time we changed the clutch and CSC.

I was never told the actual mileage of the engine, but told it was 70,000 (the clocks weren’t changed and were reading 97,889). When the engine was fitted, the cam belt was inspected and had appeared to have been previously changed (the interval is 65K), due to my financial state at the time, I chose to risk running the belt and it’s been fine since.
The rocker cover gasket is weeping, but I have a new one which I will include. (Common problem with these engines)
The starter motor is on its way out. It still easily starts the car, but sometimes takes a few attempts (will whine, not crunch) when it is warm. This is just caused by fatigue, not miss-use.

The PATs has been by-passed by means of taping the Puma key in the receiver ring, which then sits in the coin holder of the fuse box cover. The car has a Toad Ai606 Thatcham Cat 1 Alarm/immobiliser installed so security is not an issue. The puma key cannot be used to start the car.

I only have one ignition/door key and DO NOT have the red one. Not that you need the red one as the PATs is by-passed. The Petrol cap started leaking and has been replaced, so also uses a different key. I have the ignition barrel and door locks for this key if you wanted to switch them...

The car itself is lowered 40mm using a SPAX kit (shocks & springs), this was fitted 2 years ago (October 2009), so has done approximately 24,000 miles. There is no abnormal knocking or anything from the suspension, so I believe this all to be in good working order.
The wishbones and ARB drop links were replaced with pattern parts in January this year.

The alloy wheels are 15” O.Z Racing Chrono Evo’s that I refurbished myself last year in Ford Panther Black. The paint has started chipping in places and the two Near Side wheels have been massively curbed because I can’t park in tight spaces in the dark!! They are wrapped with 195/45R15 tyres.
The fronts being Yokohama (AS01) S.Drives, which were fitted mid-July, so haven’t done much mileage. The rear tyres are Toyo T1-R’s that were fitted in September 2010.

The front brakes are from a MK6 (2005) Fiesta ST. They are 280 (278 to be precise) mm in diameter and are more than enough to stop the car. I have braided lines in a box, I never got round to fitting them, but will include with car. The brake fluid could probably do with being changed as I don’t know when it was last done. (Brakes have been bled, so new fluid has been added, but never the whole lot.) The OS calliper occasionally binds to the disc, so it is warped slightly. The discs are EBC Turbo Groove and the brake pads are Mintex standard road pads. The callipers are painted green, but are quite chipped.
The rear brakes are just standard drums. The shoes were replaced a year and a half ago, and the cylinder (near side, not sure on the off side) was replaced for MOT in February.

The handbrake is one of the cars weak points. It has never worked properly! The self-adjusters and the rear section of cable have been replaced. I have the front section too, but haven’t got around to that. It takes about 6 clicks before it can hold the car on a reasonable gradient. If you adjust it at the 10mm nut on the handbrake, it holds the car very well. But will eventually (usually takes a week and a bit) go back to needing 6 clicks. I assume this maybe an issue with the ratchet itself but haven’t ever investigated it, just tightened it up for the MOT.

There are three key areas of rot to the body shell;

• The driver’s door, in the front bottom corner. It started to bubble, so I took it as far back as I could. Used Hammerite rust removal gel to clear it, then Kurusted it, followed by etch priming, red priming and finally radiant red paint. It’s not a professional finish and is starting to come through again, but if you keep on top of it, it shouldn’t spread too quickly at all.
• The OSR arch, right at the bottom by the sill, now partially covered by the side skirt. Same treatment was given as with the door. Whilst I’m writing about this arch, I should note that there is a small dent ¾’s of the way up the arch. Barely noticeable and never bothered me. I don’t know how it was caused as it’s always been there, I’m just being as honest as I can.
• The tailgate. I bought this pre-smoothed and have verified that it was welded and painted properly. I was told that the small patch of rust on the NS base was Kurusted. It does look like it has and I have regularly treated it myself and doesn’t appear to be getting any worse.

The bonnet has a small dent about half way up on the NS and has a few light scratches all over it.

The rear spoiler is a RS item that I have recently sprayed myself (rattle cans) in Ford Panther Black, however the other day I did notice a small bubble starting to appear. The brake light is wired up properly and works fine.

The rear bumper is that of a MK5 Fiesta Zetec-S. The bump strip was plastic welded by myself and then fillered over. The rear towing eye cover was tigersealed in place and filled over. Some of the filling is starting to crack ever so slightly. The whole bumper was sprayed with rattle cans so the finish isn’t perfect. The exhaust has moved recently and unfortunately has made contact with the bumper and melted it slightly. As I mentioned above, the old fuel cap leaked, so the bumper is stained below it as petrol resistant paint wasn’t used.

The side skirts again are off a MK5 Fiesta Zetec-S. They have only been tigersealed on, so there aren’t any holes drilled into the body of the car. Annoyingly the NS one was damaged getting the car off of a 2 poster ramp. It just needs tigersealing back on and the rear jacking point cover being bent back into shape and re-sprayed, or replaced.

The side bump strips were removed; the NS one was lacquered around it at some point and can be seen, if you are looking for it.
Two vinyl stripes have been added along the bottom of each side. They are wonky, but can be removed quite easily. They were added as extra cover for the small rust bubbles on the OS.

The front bumper. Ah, yeah, the front bumper! The cars worst aesthetic area! It is a standard bumper, which was cut to make a ST24 front splitter fit. It was colour coded when I got the car and has a decent finish on the upper part. However, it does appear as though it was a standard plastic bumper that was professionally re-sprayed. The ST24 splitter was tigersealed, fibre glassed and filled over, however I damaged it on a high curb, and basically bodged it very quickly with fibre glass and filler! It is still tigersealed; it was just the fibre glass and filler that got damaged. The paintwork is appalling. It was all sprayed with rattle cans, and appears to be quite soft and has marks where flies have hit it etc. This needs a lot of work to look right.

The electric windows were retro-fitted by myself, and for some reason (I never have been successful at tracing it) decide to blow one of the two fuses powering them very randomly. There isn’t any obvious pattern as to when the fuse blows, you can use both windows at once and it won’t blow, but then another time it will! It can also go for months without doing it!
The driver’s side window switch for the driver’s window gets stuck in the up position. It’s probably something inside the switch that’s moved out of place slightly. I took the switches apart to make them illuminate red a while back, but this is a recent thing that I haven’t had a chance to look at, it’s kind of handy at times to be honest!


There two small holes in the driver’s side seat bolster. There is also a small scratch on the passenger seat base. Both of these were there when I got the seats, although the holes have got slightly larger.

There is no parcel shelf, or boot carpet. I have removed the boot floor sound deadening and started to spray the boot satin black.


So I think that’s everything, here is a spec list…

Engine:

• 1.7L Puma Conversion
• K&N 57i Induction Cone with cold air feed.
• Custom Powerflow straight through mid-section (2.5” Bore) completely heat-wrapped
• Custom Powerflow 4” straight through rear silencer box with 3.5” round inwardly rolled exit
• Spax 40mm Suspension Kit (not engine I know!)

Exterior: (see comments above)

• Front ST24 Splitter smoothed in
• Smoothed Zetec-S Rear Bumper
• Zetec-S Side Skirts
• Smoothed tailgate
• RS Accessories Rear Spoiler (Integrated brake light)
• Panther Black roof strips
• Colour coded mirrors with Panther Black base plates
• Wonky Side Stripes!
• Custom ‘Pumesta’ badge!
• Smoked headlights and side repeaters
• MHW smoked rear lights

Electrics:

• Retro-fitted Central Locking
• Retro-fitted Electric Windows
• Retro-fitted Electric Tailgate Release (Boot Popper)
• Ghia X interior light with Map Lights
• Red switch illumination (Rear fog, Heated rear screen & time clock)
• Red dial illumination
• Red window switch illumination
• Toad Ai606 Thatcham Category 1 Alarm and Immobiliser, with Additional Dual Stage Shock Sensor and remote tailgate release (with 2 Fobs)
• Stebel Nautillus (140db) legal air horn!
• OMEX Electronics Sequential Shift Light
• OMEX Electronics Rev Limiter with Launch Control
• ScanGauge II

Interior:

• Standard dashboard has been sprayed black
• Ghia X interior door handles (chrome)
• Side air vent borders have been painted Radiant Red
• All remaining plastics are out of a Phase 2 MK5 Fiesta Zetec-S (the later dark grey/black interior)
• Phase 2 MK5 Fiesta Zetec-S rear bench seat (Red/Black)
• Phase 2 MK5 Fiesta Zetec-S black carpet
• Ford Puma Millennium edition, leather Recaro front sports seats, with pre-tensioners
• Ford Escort GTI Leather steering wheel
• Stereo replaced with a Carbon Fibre panel

No doubt I’ve missed something off, so if you aren’t sure on anything, feel free to contact me.

Test drives are available, but only if you are serious. The onus will be on you to prove to me that you have a full license and are insured to drive the car before I will let you drive it.

PHOTOS:











Shift light and rev limiter controllers


Launch control button and ScanGauge II



The boot


The front bumper, you can kind of see the state of the filler here (it’s like that for the whole length of the splitter…


The air horn!


K&N when fitted


The leather seats


You can just about see the small bubble in the spoiler


You can just about make out the small dent in the bonnet – about half way up


The Front Bumper….



The rusty areas
Rear OS Arch


Front bottom of drivers door


The tailgate



The Alloys
N/S/F

O/S/F

N/S/R

O/S/R


Tyre Depths
N/S/F



O/S/F


N/S/R

O/S/R


THE BEST BIT!!




126.2 BHP and 126 Lbs/Ft Torque! (June 2011 @ Power Engineering, Uxbridge)


LOCATION: Addlestone, Surrey (KT15)

PRICE: £1,000 ONO

[Big Walker]

sorry i'm not a position to buy but felt it necessary to say that this is by far the BEST for sale ad I've ever seen

best of luck bud

[MK2 Jamie]

£1000 is so cheap!

[trecoll]

sorry i'm not a position to buy but felt it necessary to say that this is by far the BEST for sale ad I've ever seen

best of luck bud

Thank you. Only took me 3 weeks to write it

£1000 is so cheap!

Buy it then