MWSTEWART | 3.2 V6 4 Motion/Quattro Mk3.5 - The End 14/09/11

Post pics of your Fiesta here.

Postby Captain Tightpants on Thu Nov 10, 2005 2:54 pm

Whooo!

Wicked mate, much alloyness! Be good to see how your going to tacke a few small issues I'm facing at the minute. Will also be good to see a Mk3 fiesta with a decent suspension setup at the rear!! At last!!

Get you with your digital calipers!! :wink: Thanks for that measurement man! :Q

Steve
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Postby andyhardy on Thu Nov 10, 2005 4:23 pm

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It's not the length of the shaft that matters - it's the girth!



:lol:

Cracking stuff mate - can't wait to see this thing being bolted back up together :D

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Postby heeman10 on Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:45 pm

What's that shocker off? Very positive location on it, rather than the Fiesta fronts which just sit onto the bolt! It's ages since I saw my rear struts so maybe I'm being dumb and that's the Fiesta rear shock :-?

Glad you can get things measured and offered up etc now, none of this planning and theory and sourcing crap :D Billet wishbones will be nice :) I hope you'll be having your initials milled in :D
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Postby Excursion on Thu Nov 10, 2005 6:00 pm

Andy - :lol:

Jim - struts are RS2000 4x4. They are ideal for us Fiesta types as they share the same top mount shape, and to fit them only requires drilling of 2 extra holes.

Initials on the arms - sweet idea!
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Postby scarlet_pimp_mobile on Thu Nov 17, 2005 6:29 pm

:oooh: Daddy Cool :Q

Hey, have you got the black digi mk5 dials because the digits are slightly transparent and therefore you can have them backlit?

Also, I know that you are having a custum inlet made but does the engine fit in the bay with the standard inlet? Or does it protude too far like the standard 2.0 mondy inlet?

keep the updates coming!
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Postby Excursion on Sun Jan 22, 2006 8:24 pm

Finally, now the FRST's have gone I can spend a bit more time on this project, things can really start moving now :Q

I spent today making a set of spits (now Nomad's are finished):
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The rest of the day was spent stripping the car down to a bare shell:
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The shell is totally mint, better than most Mk5's :)
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I'm going to Kent in the morning to pick up the entire underpinnings of a 2003 Audi TT quattro. I'm researching the system with a view to making a custom controller. I have some pretty trick plans for the electronic torque bias, it should be a Ford first when completed :D
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Postby Sphinx on Sun Jan 22, 2006 8:37 pm

:D Get cracking mate! :D
Reminds me of mine:
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Postby heeman10 on Sun Jan 22, 2006 8:49 pm

That shell's been such a good workhorse, the perfect base :) Glad to hear you have some transmission sorted, here's hoping it'll be the one for the job! With the right tyres and the power you're looking at now, this car could well duck below 11 seconds on the quarter IMO. I suspect the torque bias on other 4x4 creations doesn't make the best use of the car's power and available traction. Stick us much of the car's weight at the back, whack the torque to the back and open her up! :D Happy road tripping tomorrow :aviator:
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Postby FezzR on Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:40 pm

id like to hear about this custom controller to which you refer, unless you mean remapping the haldex like is already available?
good luck :D
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Postby Excursion on Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:49 pm

Cheers Jim and Tom :D

FezzR :id like to hear about this custom controller to which you refer, unless you mean remapping the haldex like is already available?
good luck :D


I'm removing all of the VAG system mate, I'll be making a circuit that directly controls the Haldex without any inputs such as steering angle, braking force, throttle angle etc. Unlike the VAG cars this will be full time drive with the option of adjusting it via a panel on the dashboard :D
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Postby Captain Tightpants on Sun Jan 22, 2006 10:16 pm

Excellent! :D

Glad to see this is finally going to start.

Good luck tomorrow. Safe journey.

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Postby FezzR on Sun Jan 22, 2006 10:38 pm

Excursion :Cheers Jim and Tom :D

FezzR :id like to hear about this custom controller to which you refer, unless you mean remapping the haldex like is already available?
good luck :D


I'm removing all of the VAG system mate, I'll be making a circuit that directly controls the Haldex without any inputs such as steering angle, braking force, throttle angle etc. Unlike the VAG cars this will be full time drive with the option of adjusting it via a panel on the dashboard :D

id be interested in as much information on that you'd be willing to provide, certainly sounds like your style you nutter :D
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Postby Andy.B on Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:15 pm

Class Mr Mark.... Will deffo be watching this thread with much intent. Cant wait to see it finnished and up to your usual standard. :D :D :D
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Postby Rodge on Mon Jan 23, 2006 11:26 pm

Good luck with it all mate :)

Can't wait to see this progress, surely it will be the most technologically advanced Mk3 fiesta there is when finished :Q
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Postby Excursion on Tue Jan 24, 2006 8:41 pm

Cheers again :D

Small update, we have the drivetrain! It's a lovely piece of kit; very solid construction yet lightweight. It has been proven to take 550bhp by the HPA Biturbo R32, so it should be OK for me.

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Typical VAG attention to detail (I have a lot of respect for their work, it's some of the best in the business IMO) with the line routing and that highly effective green anti-corrosion treatment of bolts:
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Box section arms:
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The Haldex unit and rear diff:
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Late type forged aluminium calipers, I will be using these as my handbrake calipers:
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Not much of an update, I've spent the day cataloguing my spares as Dad has kindly given me the loft in one of the garages to keep all my Fiesta parts. It's amazing what you collect! I've still got to strip out the interior, headlining, glass and loom - pretty mundane stuff. I hope to have the car on its side by Friday and then I can mount the diff. I've been planning it all in my head over the last couple of days and now have it all worked out including the suspension arms.

More soon :D
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Postby DaveRom on Tue Jan 24, 2006 8:48 pm

How nice does all that stuff look :o

Absolute bargain mate :wink:

Excellent news that its finally progressing too :D
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Postby c8rwt on Tue Jan 24, 2006 9:35 pm

now then mate jus read this post, looks awesome! couple of quick questions though.

1-how much did that rear drivetrain cost in total?
2-is it custom, if not from what car
and 3-is that haldex an electronically controlled diff or mechanical?

hope these havent already been answered but couldnt find the answers
red xr2i, 2.0 ltr, superchip, magnex system, 2wd cossie brakes on there way- soon to be on throttle bodies and megasquirt

after over a year sat in the yard she gets some attention! :D
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Postby heeman10 on Tue Jan 24, 2006 9:49 pm

c8wrt :2-is it custom, if not from what car
and 3-is that haldex an electronically controlled diff or mechanical?

hope these havent already been answered but couldnt find the answers

Excursion on this very same page : I'm going to Kent in the morning to pick up the entire underpinnings of a 2003 Audi TT quattro. I'm researching the system with a view to making a custom controller. I have some pretty trick plans for the electronic torque bias, it should be a Ford first when completed :D


That looks absolutely divine, to be frank! I hate how bits of metal are so satisfying to look at, but it's just so nice :) Stickers on shafts, nice lightweight ally castings, only the smallest traces of rust. Ford and VAG combined in noisy, yet smooth-running harmony. Arise, Sir Harmoniser ;)
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Postby Captain Tightpants on Tue Jan 24, 2006 10:54 pm

Excellent work mate.

Is the rear axle much bigger than the fiesta?

Are you planning on using a ford stud pattern, you changing the hubs?

Any pictures of the gearbox? :D

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Postby Excursion on Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:05 am

Cheers Geoff! Know what you mean, I can stare at pics like those for ages :D

Scort :Is the rear axle much bigger than the fiesta?


It's a fair bit wider mate

Scort :Are you planning on using a ford stud pattern, you changing the hubs?


I'm using RS2000 hubs and making my own arms. I'll be using VAG bushes on the arms at each end and having the Ford hubs milled to accept them :)

Pics of gearbox to follow.
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Postby Ghost on Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:35 am

cool!

your a god :Q
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Postby Dazza on Wed Jan 25, 2006 2:57 am

What a project!
Glad this is starting to take shape more and it makes one hell of an interesting read.
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Postby FezzR on Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:53 pm

strickly speaking the green bolts should be replaced, but i dont even know any dealers that do that so i dont know why they state it.

looks good tho,

make sure you keep the rear pads nicely greased, even the late type ones have probs
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Postby Excursion on Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:12 pm

:D

FezzR :strickly speaking the green bolts should be replaced, but i dont even know any dealers that do that so i dont know why they state it.


Is that what the green is for then, to identify the bolts that need replacement following removal? Pretty sweet idea if so!

FezzR :make sure you keep the rear pads nicely greased, even the late type ones have probs


Cheers mate will do!
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Postby Max M4X WW on Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:18 pm

I have two blue bolts from my ZS beam, That attach through the bushes to the brackets :-?
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Postby Excursion on Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:24 pm

Max M4X WW :I have two blue bolts from my ZS beam, That attach through the bushes to the brackets :-?


Yeah they are used on the rear hubs too, I always thought it was some kind of anti-slip compound.
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Postby FezzR on Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:30 pm

Excursion ::D

FezzR :strickly speaking the green bolts should be replaced, but i dont even know any dealers that do that so i dont know why they state it.


Is that what the green is for then, to identify the bolts that need replacement following removal? Pretty sweet idea if so!

so i have been lead to believe although i cant remember seeing it in any official litterature.

most of the ones which are green are ones that go into Ali (most of the transmission) as well ive noticed, and out of choice i would replace them if it was me
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Postby heeman10 on Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:31 pm

It's radioactive paint to deter DIYers like yourself from playing with them. Dealers are issued with special gloves to handle them with :)

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Postby c8rwt on Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:47 pm

isnt the blue/green colouring of the bolts due to them having an anti corrosion surface, to stop them from seizing?
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Postby FezzR on Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:14 pm

c8rwt :isnt the blue/green colouring of the bolts due to them having an anti corrosion surface, to stop them from seizing?
yes they are coated and no dout it is anti sieze, noone is disputing that.


oh another thing mark, if the ARBs is anything like the front, they are good for, bush clamps and linkrods too :rolleyes:
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Postby Max M4X WW on Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:57 pm

Excursion :
Max M4X WW :I have two blue bolts from my ZS beam, That attach through the bushes to the brackets :-?


Yeah they are used on the rear hubs too, I always thought it was some kind of anti-slip compound.

Yea. Caliper bolts had a blob of blue so thats what i guessed.
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Postby Mikee_RS on Wed Jan 25, 2006 9:20 pm

you really are a nutter :aviator:
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Postby Excursion on Mon Feb 06, 2006 8:51 pm

Sup!! I've been working on the car when I can, a lot of time has been spent organising all my Fiesta spares and creating a catalogue so that I know what I have. I've got the shell strippedand have removed pretty much every fitting bar a few clips (which will be removed in due course). I hate overspray on anything, even if it's not seen!

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Here is the sound deadening I have to contend with before I can start any fabrication/modification. I had a nice quiet ride but it's gonna take some effort to shift all that material (the black residue on the boot floor is from a lead sandwich sound deadener) :D

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First stage: heat gun and scraper! Lots of fumes but unfortunately no decent side effects to report :(

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Second stage: Petrol and rags, again lots of fumes but no visuals, boring!! Nice and clean:
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Now I'm pretty pedantic when it comes to corrosion proofing, really hate any sign of rust. What I'm using here is Copper based weld-through primer and acid etch primer (in aerosol form at this stage). I take the seams back to bare metal ready for seam welding and then finish with the weld-through primer. In theory this gives protection behind the weld and in the seam, resisting corrosion. Once seam welding is complete I will finish again with etch primer, then a further coat of standard primer from a gun:

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Seams ready for welding, and etch primer on any exposed metal:

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Here is the shell ready for seam sealer removal:

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I started a bit of seam welding today just to break from the monotiny of removing the damn seam sealer, that stuff is a swine to remove!
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That's about it for now, I have some serious work ahead seam welding and and removing sealer :)
Last edited by Excursion on Tue Feb 07, 2006 8:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Raymondo on Mon Feb 06, 2006 8:57 pm

oooo this project is very cool and you seem to be extremely talented :Q

Where did you get your sound deadening from?
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Postby FezzR on Mon Feb 06, 2006 9:01 pm

did you achieve the desired amount of penetration with the welds :oooh:

not sure how much is needed or desirable for seam welding :-?
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