fiestaturbo.com

[jonyb4]

welsh guy from neath made that

his missus andrea has his made 1.6 sport ka engine turbo'd

[knuckles]

this is why i stuck to N/A

can u imagine the issues trying to fit this lot into a standard mk2 bay

i wouldnt normally say this but to resolve the lack of space wouldnt doing away with the bonnet support and catch then use aero catches etc. But that dont help your rad location which will need to go forward also.

but i hate that idea as i like my std bonnet release

[TIL13R]

I can't believe after all the Zetec Turbos around noone has had this issue before something must be wrong or different somehow..!?

[- Danny Boy -]

The reason this is different is because Wayne is leaving in the slam panel and all that lot, which is what I would do too. Most people cut that out and bolt it back on. As Clark said, it does away with the bonnet release and that, which is always nice to have instead of aero catches - much neater.

Hopefully you get it all sorted Wayne

[jonyb4]

you see people do it and not even touch the slam panel
but they usual use standard manifolds

[dontpannic]

Is the engine mounted further forward than usual? Just looking at the engine bay pic and something looks odd, like the engine is too far forward?

[RS rob]

The reason this is different is because Wayne is leaving in the slam panel and all that lot, which is what I would do too. Most people cut that out and bolt it back on. As Clark said, it does away with the bonnet release and that, which is always nice to have instead of aero catches - much neater.

Hopefully you get it all sorted Wayne

yeah i'm leaving the slam panel alone aswell, but moving the turbo instead
was'nt much room with normal t3 manifold

[Tweek]

The engine position appears to be normal. There's hardly any room behind the inlet manifold and the front engine mount lines up perfect with the holes in the chassis. The gearbox side obviously only has 1 position and everything looks straight and in-line. I really don't know why it's tighter than the others to fit!

There's a few ZTs out there with "over the gearbox" exhaust manifolds too.

[FRSJON]

on mine the rad is in front of the lip on the front cross member and down pipe is very close to cross member .

[jonyb4]

im sure the RS manifold will be fine though

[RS rob]

The engine position appears to be normal. There's hardly any room behind the inlet manifold and the front engine mount lines up perfect with the holes in the chassis. The gearbox side obviously only has 1 position and everything looks straight and in-line. I really don't know why it's tighter than the others to fit!

There's a few ZTs out there with "over the gearbox" exhaust manifolds too.

i made the decision for the turbo over the gearbox,
as i dont want any restrictions on cooling if i can help it,
a big single pass intercooler and the biggest rad possible is what i'm after

plus with the turbo soo close to the rad, knowing my luck the engine would move and damage the rad

[MK2 Jamie]

Mount the turbo on the dash. Job done.

[hb69]

Mount the turbo on the dash. Job done.

Colour coded?

[RS rob]

Mount the turbo on the dash. Job done.

hmmm in your face chatter!

[Tweek]

Standard Focus RS turbo and manifold FIT! With everything in standard position the turbo just touches the radiator but angling the rad forwards give it 10mm clearance or so

[Rhinopower]

More space too if you rotate the housing, just need an actuator bracket, when i get mine i'l let you know which one if you want?

[FRSJON]

nice one

[jayrs]

Nice one mate, onward with the build now then

[Dave5300]

looks awesome

[dontpannic]

Excellent Wayne!


Sent from my Casio FX-83GT

[andymac]

More space too if you rotate the housing, just need an actuator bracket, when i get mine i'l let you know which one if you want?

Hah, I said exactly the same thing when I saw the pic.

I think a regular T2/T25 one will be fine - I expect that although the housing size can change, the mounting area stays the same. I'd have had a spare one on a duff T25 (the rover ones are removable) but sadly it's been slung.

BTW you still haven't msg'd me about the fannymould and injectors, you Rodney

[Tweek]

Right, the FRS manifold and turbo are now bolted in, downpipe trial fitted too and it all fits, FINALLY! Very tight fit but it's there lol. Oil return is a bit fiddly to route now though but it's doable.



The downpipe is a "bit" tight to the starter motor so I've got some heatwrap on order




Another job from yesterday was to reassemble the front axle, brakes and suspension now refitted. Still need to change the bushes in my OEM lower arms so lightly fitted the rubbish ones back on for now just to get the hubs in place.



After all that work bleeding the brakes, I returned to the car this morning to find this:



What an absolute baxtered!!! Rear seal is leaking The rear brakes don't seem to bite very well either, whether that's a bias issue or dodgy cylinders I don't know. I would have thought the Mondeo bias reducers would have been sufficient though?! I'll be renewing the rear brakes soon anyway so I'll change the reservoir seals then.

Back to today's work, I put the new ECU loom in, routed the wires out and chopped them down, plus adding in the missing +ve wires.



I got bored half way through so decided to toy with the boost pipe/hose route. You know you're doing it right when the turbo outlet hose is cosy against the radiator



These brackets on the rad, I'll probably end up fitting on the other side of the pannel, moving the whole rad forward enough to be safe.



The FRST charge carrier isn't working anymore so that'll be on ebay soon:



So, instead the inlet pipework may look a bit like this:



Rubbish line I know but it'll probably mount to the bottom of the battery tray or something.



The horn is being relocated and somewhere in the middle of that I'm hoping there's a gap to put the air filter

More updates next weekend

[TIL13R]

Glad to see it coming together... I see you have the same issue with my inlet pipework taking a different route

[- Danny Boy -]

Nice update Wayne

[andymac]

All that faffing around the brake M/C and servo is why, when, eventually, I get round to doing anything interesting with the golf I'll be fitting a remote servo and an aftermarket pedal box, will leave loads of room in the bulkhead area for.... things.

[Tweek]

I must admit I've had no motivation whatsoever this weekend but still managed to do a couple of things anyway. First, a mess I actually just sat and stared at for a good few minutes hoping it'd all just sort itself out



After some faffing and having lost most of the screws somewhere it now looks more pleasant. (And yes, those are cable ties on the cowling, screws are lost!) B&M's back in too as you can see, with adjustments.



I had a look at the clutch pedal afterwards, removed the old cable and partially fitted the new one. Again, with no motivation I couldn't be arsed to remove the clutch pedal (to change the quadrant to a larger one) so left it.

Later on I decided to tackle the huge tangle of ECU wires I chopped and build the loom. Most of the plugs and pins are new, some are reused ones from old looms but they're pretty decent. It was looking like this approaching 1am this morning:



Random soldering photo as I started to lose my mind



And here it is 90% complete. Missing a few connections but I want to readdress those with a fresh mind! And for those among us wondering, it's all cleanly soldered, heatshrinked, fully heat-resistant sleeved and partially covered in conduit, not botched



Pretty coloured plug wiring...



I had planned to connect and tidy the wires on the oil pressure gauge sender today to get it out the way but it's too cold and I still can't be arsed

[jonyb4]

very neat and tidy

[- Danny Boy -]

Nice work Wayne

[Dave5300]

looks great mate getting there slowly

[jayrs]

It's build is coming on really well Wayne

[Razer]

nice work, looks ace

[Tweek]

Today I had motivation, but not the luck with the weather! It's been lovely and sunny followed by a heavy shower, sun, rain, sun, rain

It wasn't raining underneath the car and since the oil feed adapter was a crap loose fit I decided to dismantle the whole thing, change some connectors/adapters, PTFE tape it all and put it back together, looks better now and the gauge sender is wired up too:



And if you haven't already seen my cheap ebay gauges here they are:



Again, I haven't bought them to be super accurate, I've bought them just as a warning indicator if something's going/gone wrong, plus they light up green to match the rest of the dash

Also over the last couple of evenings, I've started to put the exhaust on. I even managed to drop the backbox right on my eyebrow and split it open, which was clever! I've cut off the old T3 downpipe, the new downpipe and midsection are currently being modified with a flexi-joint to fit together at Powerflow. I'm sorry, please don't hurt me!




Also, the ECU loom is in the car and I put the battery on to power it up. DISASTER! There's a really horrible problem somewhere. As soon as the ECU's earth (from pin straight to battery) gets connected, the whole car starts going mental. It has to be something with the power feeds to either the ecu itself or the wire feeding the +ve sensor wires. Even with all the connectors unplugged (except car loom) it still does it. A shame really as that loom looks beautiful and I checked it over and over again to make sure everything was correct and it was

Going into the ECU software, it registers the ECU there but didn't register the car cranking over. The fuel pump primed, the TPS had a solid reading but as soon as the ignition was turned off, the fuel pump started priming again,, relays clicked berserk, the handbrake and battery lights stay on very faintly and my new gauges flicker and go nuts!

[jayrs]

Hmmm, sounds like a earth problem somewhere don't it, but with ignition off it should cut power ( as you of course know lol) you got a live connected somewhere it shouldn't be?

[jonyb4]

good work, badluck on the leccy issues, hate electrics when they go wrong!

[rsturbonutter]

Instead of using ptfe on the fittings I would use loctite as it will get hot and possibly just deteriorate quite quickly. I got lots of the stuff could send you a tube if you want foc I used to nab it from work as its £30 a tub