Fiesta 1.1 CFI Tappets-urgent help needed

Problem or technical question?

Fiesta 1.1 CFI Tappets-urgent help needed

Postby ADIMK3 on Mon Oct 31, 2005 12:33 pm

Hi,


I know it may seem a classic issue to you all.I'm trying to adjust the valve clearance, but even if I try to put it into 0.2 inlet and 0.3 exhaust,the engine behaves horrible.The whole car is shaking hard when I start the engine.Does anybody know the clearance values for the "warm engine"?How long should I wait until the engine goes back "cold".



Thank you,
Adrian
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Postby Badgerboy on Mon Oct 31, 2005 1:39 pm

Shaking hard? You do know this could be the engine mounts. What happens if you rev it? If the valve clearance is off a little, it won't do you any good, but it shouldn't make the engine shake!

Do remember that the exhaust and inlet swap around halfway, use your Haynes to check this, but for now I'd get a mate to give the engine some revs, and check to see if its the mounts.
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Postby ADIMK3 on Mon Oct 31, 2005 1:48 pm

Hi,


If I rev it it doesn't run "round'.It accelerates very very slow


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Postby FezzR on Mon Oct 31, 2005 2:19 pm

sounds more like a misfire to me, (plugs or leads usually) but could be valve or piston,

was it running right before you tried adjusting, if so sound like your doing it wrong
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Postby ADIMK3 on Mon Oct 31, 2005 4:22 pm

Hi,


Is worse than before.I followed Heynes, saying valves 1,2 rocking-set 7,8;3,4 rocking-set 5,6'5,6 rocking-set 3,4 with the order 1,3,6,8 exhaust.Is my understanding right?-rocking means turning the engine would make tappets go down one a each time with the rotation direction reversed?

Someone bring some light into my stressy engine


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Postby ADIMK3 on Mon Oct 31, 2005 4:32 pm

I have a stupid question.If I drive for a while,warming the engine,can I fix the tappets with a smaller aperture?(ex 0.1 with 0.2)
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Postby FezzR on Mon Oct 31, 2005 6:23 pm

always do it cold
yes smaller gaps are better if your engine is worn (more than 20k)
but half is to small, an extra .02 or .04 smaller is enough, but sounds like you have a problem
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Postby ADIMK3 on Mon Oct 31, 2005 9:10 pm

Hi,

It's now the fifth time I'm trying to get it fixed.No result whatsoever.I'm beyond the stress level.New problem arose.Checking the rest,I discovered the TPS(throtle position sensor) links where almost burnt due to the exhaust.I put new insulation, refit the sensor.Is there any chance for this item to be burnt?How can I check it?If so, might this be the source of my problems?






I do need your help!
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Postby Excursion on Mon Oct 31, 2005 10:05 pm

Adrian, from memory the TPS wires are no where near the exhaust on a mk3. Do you have any photo's of the sensor you are referring to?

If the car is shaking it sounds like the valve clearances are far too tight. Does the engine sound like it wants to stall?

To be honest I do the clearances whether the engine is hot or cold, it makes little real world difference :)
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Postby ADIMK3 on Mon Oct 31, 2005 11:10 pm

Hi,

The sensor has 3 wires and a plug and is actuated by a small metal piece.The moment I put my finger on the wires, the insulation droped.

Please tell me more about setting tappets on warm engine.How do you fix the clearance: for instance when the no 1 valve is fully depresed you adjust the number 8 and so on? or you wait until both valves (1 an 2) are even (moving up and down depending how you rotate the engine) and set 8 and 7?
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Postby ADIMK3 on Mon Oct 31, 2005 11:13 pm

The engine sometimes even stops.You don't want to see me at the traffic light trying to start it up again and making horrible diesel like noise.
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Postby Excursion on Mon Oct 31, 2005 11:38 pm

ADIMK3 :Hi,

The sensor has 3 wires and a plug and is actuated by a small metal piece.The moment I put my finger on the wires, the insulation droped.

Please tell me more about setting tappets on warm engine.How do you fix the clearance: for instance when the no 1 valve is fully depresed you adjust the number 8 and so on? or you wait until both valves (1 an 2) are even (moving up and down depending how you rotate the engine) and set 8 and 7?


Are the wires red, green and yellow?

For the tappets, I don't use the anal fun method in the Haynes manual, all I do is make sure both valves are fully closed on a particular cylinder and then work my way from there, rotating the engine until the next cylinder's valves are closed. This is much faster!
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Postby cheby on Mon Oct 31, 2005 11:46 pm

Allo mate,

I wrote a guide on here about a while ago and it hasn't failed yet. I tried following the guide in the Haynes manual but couldn't find the TDC so I asked for help of a fellow McLaren master mechanic next door and he showed me his way. You seem to have the right idea about the rocking. I have tried adjusting them, Inlet: 0.10mm and the Exhaust: 0.15mm before. It worked but it was over fueling a bit. Also when you are adjusting your tappets it is very important that you do it when the engine is stone cold or it will never be correct. Maybe this will help.

http://www.fiestaturbo.com/phpBB/viewto ... ight=cheby

Hope this helps.

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Postby ADIMK3 on Tue Nov 01, 2005 12:05 pm

Hi friends,


I tried it again this morning.Step by step I'm getting closer to turbo-diesel.I found today a mechanic who said it'll try, disasambling the rocker shaft and checking for wear.Keep my fingers crossed!I had enough of this issue.My love for Ford cars starts to fade away.


Don't have my luck!

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Postby FezzR on Tue Nov 01, 2005 2:22 pm

you have remembered that the sequence of inlet/exhaust changes half way down the line havent you
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Postby ADIMK3 on Tue Nov 01, 2005 3:45 pm

Hi,


It finally hapened!!! :) :) :) :) :) The mechanic I told you about did it.He didn't let me see how (owner policy-he said) - cost me 10 pounds and it's now a quiet sawing machine.


Thanks God!!!!
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Postby Excursion on Tue Nov 01, 2005 3:56 pm

Good show :D
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Postby ADIMK3 on Tue Nov 01, 2005 4:01 pm

Hi,

I'm not placing messages for fun.I'm living in Romania so Ford mechanic is sort of rara avis here.


All the best to you all

Adrian
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