ffs not again!
17 posts • Page 1 of 1
ffs not again!
I couldnt believe it. I had fitted new contact plates to my tailgate and it finally cured the problem. I thought that was it. My car was officially problem free and then.... I turned on my alarm and the doors wouldnt lock
What have I done to deserve this crappyl luck
Anyhow I had this a few months ago but it suddenly stopped of it's own accord. The locks bounce so they just lock, unlock, lock and so on and so forth. End result being I cannot lock my car.
Last time this happened I bought some spare CL motors from Moondust to fix it but the problem went away before I had to fit them.
So today when the problem happened I ran upstairs and got them and fitted them both in my lunchbreak.
The problem is the new motors are on, but the locks are still bouncing. I also oiled everything in sight with WD40 including the cables that run to the handle since they seemed a little sluggish.
What else can I do??
I cant have a car that does not lock
Please help
What have I done to deserve this crappyl luck
Anyhow I had this a few months ago but it suddenly stopped of it's own accord. The locks bounce so they just lock, unlock, lock and so on and so forth. End result being I cannot lock my car.
Last time this happened I bought some spare CL motors from Moondust to fix it but the problem went away before I had to fit them.
So today when the problem happened I ran upstairs and got them and fitted them both in my lunchbreak.
The problem is the new motors are on, but the locks are still bouncing. I also oiled everything in sight with WD40 including the cables that run to the handle since they seemed a little sluggish.
What else can I do??
I cant have a car that does not lock
Please help
- Stoned
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- chumkila
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- chumkila
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as a temporary solution mate disconnect the p[owe for the central locking to all the doors that way they just simply work as majnual locks again until the problewm is resolved

- HaggisTurbo
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It's an Autowatch CAT1 alarm mate.
No it's a genuine XR2/RST CL system. I just replaced the motors from a different XR2' Fez.
Thats the problem Csmith. It's a delocked car so I cant!
And if I disconnect that cable there is no chance of the alarm being able to lock the doors, it has to be connected
Dont delock your car lads, total pain in the arse!
No it's a genuine XR2/RST CL system. I just replaced the motors from a different XR2' Fez.
Thats the problem Csmith. It's a delocked car so I cant!
And if I disconnect that cable there is no chance of the alarm being able to lock the doors, it has to be connected
Dont delock your car lads, total pain in the arse!
- Stoned
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Stoned,
Disconnect the unit on the passenger side, basically it seems like 1 of the 2 is at fault, so you will have to find out which one is.
With the passsenger one disconnected, try and lock the car with your alarm key.
Disconnect the unit on the passenger side, basically it seems like 1 of the 2 is at fault, so you will have to find out which one is.
With the passsenger one disconnected, try and lock the car with your alarm key.
Car is back...
- AndyBlackFRST
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I think we did all this before mate when it first started happining. Basically they work fine indepandantly.
But as soon as you connect the yellow and white wires together it start's bouncing.
I dont think the alarm can control the locks without the yellow and white cable connected?
Or did you just mean the power?
But as soon as you connect the yellow and white wires together it start's bouncing.
I dont think the alarm can control the locks without the yellow and white cable connected?
Or did you just mean the power?
Last edited by Stoned on Wed Jul 30, 2003 2:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Stoned
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id say when you get home pull the whole lot out and rewire it all.
Thats what i did with things like the boot release
Thats what i did with things like the boot release
Jamie
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it would sound like the locks think that one of the doors is still open...
is there a sensor of some kind so that the locks know when the doors a closed?
Oh and stoned! The CD's came today...cheers
is there a sensor of some kind so that the locks know when the doors a closed?
Oh and stoned! The CD's came today...cheers
R.I.P Rob...
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- TrekkieFRST
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You're welcome mate
Yeah I wondered that, but I could not find any sign of a sensor. It seems like a very basic system. Maybe it's the locks themselves that are the problem and not the motors/electrics.
I dont see how the wires could simply fail like this, and the motor's are now changed so thats all's that is left really...
Yeah I wondered that, but I could not find any sign of a sensor. It seems like a very basic system. Maybe it's the locks themselves that are the problem and not the motors/electrics.
I dont see how the wires could simply fail like this, and the motor's are now changed so thats all's that is left really...
- Stoned
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The white box (the motor itself) can be taken off from the latch, so if you want to test the lock by itself then just take off the motor. Also while you have it out, there is a tube at the top of the mechanism which pulls and pushes a lever. Thats the lever that unlocks and locks the car, just make sure that the tube is still pulling and pushing as the motor that died on mine, was because the pully lever wasnt working.
To solve it i went to a scrappy, took the old motor off my original lock, put the scrappy's motor off the lock it came with and onto my original lock, and as soon as i shut the door you could hear the car lock itself again
To solve it i went to a scrappy, took the old motor off my original lock, put the scrappy's motor off the lock it came with and onto my original lock, and as soon as i shut the door you could hear the car lock itself again
Jamie
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Stoned :Basically they work fine indepandantly.
But as soon as you connect the yellow and white wires together it start's bouncing.
I think I've already told you this, but I'll repeat it in case you missed it first time round - your problem is not with the lock. It is almost certainly a wiring fault; you either have an open circuit somewhere, or your alarm interface or it's related wiring is faulty.
Get the c/l wiring down from behind the trim panels and dash and inspect it.
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imo it would be easier to check the wiring, by testing the resistance through them this is because
A u dont have to drop all the wiring done
B u can tell weather it is begin to deteriate
C can check that connections are sound
have no choice but a process of ilimination an option is to isolate the two doors then put a volt meter to the wires and u will be able to tell which unit is sending the signal to lock and unlock etc.
if they both are then only thing can think of is alarm. might be worth seeing if u can get some specs of the alarm c/l circuit and checking the installation
HTH
Ian
A u dont have to drop all the wiring done
B u can tell weather it is begin to deteriate
C can check that connections are sound
have no choice but a process of ilimination an option is to isolate the two doors then put a volt meter to the wires and u will be able to tell which unit is sending the signal to lock and unlock etc.
if they both are then only thing can think of is alarm. might be worth seeing if u can get some specs of the alarm c/l circuit and checking the installation
HTH
Ian
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17 posts • Page 1 of 1




