Guide: Fitting Central Locking, Electric Windows & Boot
27 posts • Page 1 of 1
Guide: Fitting Central Locking, Electric Windows & Boot
by AW3K on Fri Jun 25, 2004 1:44 am
Remove the door interior handle, door cards and window winders if there.
Remove your existing latches, this is done by opening the door and removing the 3 large screws on the edge of the door.
Remove all connecting rods (Exterior handle and lock) from the latch I think by unclipping and twisting
Unclip the interior handle from the door and remove as one complete assembly, (Latch and handle)
You will notice that the C/L latches have the motors attached to them, do not take them apart.
Feed the latch down into the door and refit and tighten three screws on the edge of the door.
Clip the interior handle from the C/L latch into the door clip all the rods to the latch and that’s it. Repeat for the other door.
Depending on if you got the wiring loom from the donor car this bit may be different.
In each door there will be an existing wire from the car that is for the speaker, this just removes from the speaker and unclips in the car under the sill trims, unclip and depress the tabs on the rubber pipe and withdraw.
Install the C/L and maybe electric window loom. By feeding the cables through the hole in the door and ensure that the rubber pipe is securely attached, you will hear a series of clicks.
Remove the manual window regulators by unscrewing the 2 screws that hold the glass to it through the 2 holes at the top of the door, then drill out all the rivets, lay the regulator down on the bottom of the door and remove from the big hole.
The electric window regulator must be riveted to the door, 2 at the top, 2 at the bottom and the motor bolted in the same place as the manual regulator.(see above pics) Lay it down to get it in the door and manoeuvre into position and fix in place. Add the 2 screws and that’s it.
Connect the door loom to the speaker, route the cables in the channel provided in the door and tie-wrap to secure. Connect the central locking motor and electric window motor plugs together if installed. They are polarised so that they only fit one way.
Dependant on the age of the donor car the electric window switches may be in the speaker pods/door pockets. If so you will need the pockets and switches.
You will notice a small hole in the lower section of the door, the plastic will be perforated around it, remove the plastic and pull the cables through and the rubber grommet will fit exactly in the hole. On your door card if you look from the rear you will see the same hole there but the material will be intact, take a sharp knife and cut an “X” into the hole. This will provide a hole for the cables to pass through.
Put the door card back on ensuring that the cables are through the hole. Put the new door pockets on and connect the switches, secure the card then. Bung the window winder hole with a bung you got from the scrap yard, if you can’t find any I’m sure they are not expensive to buy new.
Now into the car. You will now notice a hole in the car where the rubber pipe will fit. Don’t worry.
The rest of the loom that you took from the donor car will come in handy now.
On the passenger side there will two wires in the loom that will run to the back of the car for the speaker. Remove the trim and lay the cable down.
In that hole in the side of the car you now need to push the big black multi-plug into it, take note of the tab cut out at the top, push it till it clicks.
The rubber pipe from the door can now be pushed onto the plug and turned till it clicks, that’s all the wiring done for that side.
Route the loom up under the dash tie-wrapping as you go, until you get to behind the radio, which needs to be removed along with the heater surroundings, this makes the next bit easier.
Push the rest of the loom through the gap behind the radio so that all the remaining loom is in the drivers foot well.
If the loom is correctly laid you will notice that there are the speaker wires and the boot release button wires behind the radio, the boot release wire needs to be secured there and drawn down into the centre consol.
Dependant on the age of the car you took the loom out off, there might be the plugs for the electric windows there, if so pull them down as well, if not then the switches are in the door. Connect the switches if there.
For the boot release from newer models you may need to cut a hole for the button, this is a 5-minute job if you measure correctly and mark out, drill a number of holes then use a knife to cut the plastic, its only soft so it will be easy. Its up to you where you want it but the intended position works well next to the gear gaiter.
Back to the loom, tie-wrap it to the metal bar under the dash all the way along to the drivers door, plug the big round plug into the A pillar and repeat the steps for the door wiring as described above.
You will notice fuse 25 (boot release) on the loom dangling behind the fuse box; this clips to the side of the fuse box.
On this side of the loom there is again speaker cables and the wire that is needed for the boot release, lay these down the side of the car into the boot. Once in the boot the black wire for the boot must be connected to the contact plate, if yours has any plates missing you need to get a complete one from a scrappers. When you get it make sure you get the part of the loom that is connected to the second plate in from the right. This has a connector on that the boot release cable connects to.
Install the new plates and connect your loom back to it ensuring that the black wire for the release is connected to it.
looking from above left to right
1 wiper motor black
2 wiper motor black violet
3 boot release red and white
4 heated window, thick black and blue
pin 4 is also the switch for the boot light, it has 2 wires brown and brown red
the above is for the plates on the body not the pins in the boot, but are the same
see pic below.
also in the pic you may notice that the red white has another connector on it, if thats the case just plug the boot wire into it, if not then you have to take the plug apart and push the connector into it.
Replace all trim panels making sure the loom is not being obstructed.
With the boot open remove all the trim from the actual hatch so that you have access to the lock area.
You will notice 2 holes in the panel, this is where the boot pop motor secures, screw it in making sure that the bracket is straight and the wires are at the lower edge of the boot.
Unclip the connecting rod from the boot lock then take a large torx bit and remove the latch from the boot and it should have the connecting rod attached to it from the lock.
Attach the connecting rod from the boot pop into the other hole next to the existing rod, replace the latch but do not tighten up fully, twist both rods into there connectors in the lock and motor, tighten everything back up and that’s it.
From the motor there is one black wire that must be earthed in the boot, connect to the earth for the wiper motor, if not installed just screw it to the metal.
The other wire has a plug on it, this connects to the pins in the boot, remember second one in from the right. Now that’s done. Secure the cables and refit the trim.
That’s the entire loom laid down in the car. Now its time to connect it to the fuse box.
WARNING I TAKE NO RESPONSABILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU MAY CAUSE, MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
Disconnect the battery please as you will be playing with the fuse box.
If your car has the plug under the dash to the left of the column then your lucky, just connect the multi-plug and add the fuses and test the system, if not then you need to do a bit more work.
Pull down the loom from the donor car and cut the insulating tape so that the multi-plug is accessible. Chase the wires back as far as possible,
There will be:
Thick brown
Thick black/yellow
Red/yellow
Grey/yellow
Red/white
Cut the thick brown wire off where it connects to the other brown wires.
Cut the grey yellow wire off where it joins the rest.
The rest of the cables need to be chased to the fuse box, DO NOT CUT THEM
With the fuse box removed, and relay board separated, find fuse 3 remove the fuse the wire that goes into this is the red yellow one from the plug. Get a small flat screwdriver and push it down the side of brass connector, you may have to do this a few times to release the contact. Pull the cable and the connector should come out of the fuse box. Now do the same for the connector directly below it, this will have a thick red and blue wire connected to it, that is connected to the + bus bar, pull the connector and remove it. Place to one side.
Now remove fuse 18 this is for the electric windows, on the connector the wire will be the black/yellow one from the plug. Remove the connectors as described above and remove the cable. You will notice that the connector below has a thick black wire that is connected to the ignition rely, you will have to cut this, ensure you get a good amount of wire on it and remove from the fuse box.
The red and white wire from the multi-plug goes to the middle of the ignition relay. Remove the relay and poke out the connector in the same way as described above. Take the relay with you as well, you’ll need it.
Disconnect the battery please as you will be playing with the fuse box.
On your car you will need to put the cables into your fuse box, repeat the above but in reverse order into your box.
The thick black wire from fuse 18 will need to be soldered to your existing black wire; this is easier said than done, as it is a thick cable. Once done insulate the cable and your sorted.
Group all the cables together and run them back up the loom taping it up as you go to make it look all-original.
The thick brown wire from the plug can be earthed anywhere, I connected it to the steering column; just crimp an eyelet on the cable and screw to the chassis.
The grey/yellow wire was soldered to the illumination cables under the dash in a similar place to where it was cut.
Again insulate and tidy the cables.
Push together the multi-plug and socket, add the fuses to the fuse box put the fuse box back and re connect the battery.
Secure all cables and insulate any bare wires with tape.
If you have done it right then the central locking should work from either door inside and out. If electric windows are installed they should work as well either from the centre consol or doors, only when the ignition is on.
The boot release will only work if the ignition is in the off position, it will not allow the boot to be opened while the car is running.
This guide is exactly the same for the 5 door, but the motors are slightly different for the rear doors, but same principal, as the loom goes up the B pillar and through into the door.
rear door
rod guide/protector
motor mounts
rubber pipe, there will be bungs in the door and pillar to remove,
And that’s it the end of the guide, I hope you find it useful.
some pictures added
Enjoy
Andy
Remove your existing latches, this is done by opening the door and removing the 3 large screws on the edge of the door.
Remove all connecting rods (Exterior handle and lock) from the latch I think by unclipping and twisting
Unclip the interior handle from the door and remove as one complete assembly, (Latch and handle)
You will notice that the C/L latches have the motors attached to them, do not take them apart.
Feed the latch down into the door and refit and tighten three screws on the edge of the door.
Clip the interior handle from the C/L latch into the door clip all the rods to the latch and that’s it. Repeat for the other door.
Depending on if you got the wiring loom from the donor car this bit may be different.
In each door there will be an existing wire from the car that is for the speaker, this just removes from the speaker and unclips in the car under the sill trims, unclip and depress the tabs on the rubber pipe and withdraw.
Install the C/L and maybe electric window loom. By feeding the cables through the hole in the door and ensure that the rubber pipe is securely attached, you will hear a series of clicks.
Remove the manual window regulators by unscrewing the 2 screws that hold the glass to it through the 2 holes at the top of the door, then drill out all the rivets, lay the regulator down on the bottom of the door and remove from the big hole.
The electric window regulator must be riveted to the door, 2 at the top, 2 at the bottom and the motor bolted in the same place as the manual regulator.(see above pics) Lay it down to get it in the door and manoeuvre into position and fix in place. Add the 2 screws and that’s it.
Connect the door loom to the speaker, route the cables in the channel provided in the door and tie-wrap to secure. Connect the central locking motor and electric window motor plugs together if installed. They are polarised so that they only fit one way.
Dependant on the age of the donor car the electric window switches may be in the speaker pods/door pockets. If so you will need the pockets and switches.
You will notice a small hole in the lower section of the door, the plastic will be perforated around it, remove the plastic and pull the cables through and the rubber grommet will fit exactly in the hole. On your door card if you look from the rear you will see the same hole there but the material will be intact, take a sharp knife and cut an “X” into the hole. This will provide a hole for the cables to pass through.
Put the door card back on ensuring that the cables are through the hole. Put the new door pockets on and connect the switches, secure the card then. Bung the window winder hole with a bung you got from the scrap yard, if you can’t find any I’m sure they are not expensive to buy new.
Now into the car. You will now notice a hole in the car where the rubber pipe will fit. Don’t worry.
The rest of the loom that you took from the donor car will come in handy now.
On the passenger side there will two wires in the loom that will run to the back of the car for the speaker. Remove the trim and lay the cable down.
In that hole in the side of the car you now need to push the big black multi-plug into it, take note of the tab cut out at the top, push it till it clicks.
The rubber pipe from the door can now be pushed onto the plug and turned till it clicks, that’s all the wiring done for that side.
Route the loom up under the dash tie-wrapping as you go, until you get to behind the radio, which needs to be removed along with the heater surroundings, this makes the next bit easier.
Push the rest of the loom through the gap behind the radio so that all the remaining loom is in the drivers foot well.
If the loom is correctly laid you will notice that there are the speaker wires and the boot release button wires behind the radio, the boot release wire needs to be secured there and drawn down into the centre consol.
Dependant on the age of the car you took the loom out off, there might be the plugs for the electric windows there, if so pull them down as well, if not then the switches are in the door. Connect the switches if there.
For the boot release from newer models you may need to cut a hole for the button, this is a 5-minute job if you measure correctly and mark out, drill a number of holes then use a knife to cut the plastic, its only soft so it will be easy. Its up to you where you want it but the intended position works well next to the gear gaiter.
Back to the loom, tie-wrap it to the metal bar under the dash all the way along to the drivers door, plug the big round plug into the A pillar and repeat the steps for the door wiring as described above.
You will notice fuse 25 (boot release) on the loom dangling behind the fuse box; this clips to the side of the fuse box.
On this side of the loom there is again speaker cables and the wire that is needed for the boot release, lay these down the side of the car into the boot. Once in the boot the black wire for the boot must be connected to the contact plate, if yours has any plates missing you need to get a complete one from a scrappers. When you get it make sure you get the part of the loom that is connected to the second plate in from the right. This has a connector on that the boot release cable connects to.
Install the new plates and connect your loom back to it ensuring that the black wire for the release is connected to it.
looking from above left to right
1 wiper motor black
2 wiper motor black violet
3 boot release red and white
4 heated window, thick black and blue
pin 4 is also the switch for the boot light, it has 2 wires brown and brown red
the above is for the plates on the body not the pins in the boot, but are the same
see pic below.
also in the pic you may notice that the red white has another connector on it, if thats the case just plug the boot wire into it, if not then you have to take the plug apart and push the connector into it.
Replace all trim panels making sure the loom is not being obstructed.
With the boot open remove all the trim from the actual hatch so that you have access to the lock area.
You will notice 2 holes in the panel, this is where the boot pop motor secures, screw it in making sure that the bracket is straight and the wires are at the lower edge of the boot.
Unclip the connecting rod from the boot lock then take a large torx bit and remove the latch from the boot and it should have the connecting rod attached to it from the lock.
Attach the connecting rod from the boot pop into the other hole next to the existing rod, replace the latch but do not tighten up fully, twist both rods into there connectors in the lock and motor, tighten everything back up and that’s it.
From the motor there is one black wire that must be earthed in the boot, connect to the earth for the wiper motor, if not installed just screw it to the metal.
The other wire has a plug on it, this connects to the pins in the boot, remember second one in from the right. Now that’s done. Secure the cables and refit the trim.
That’s the entire loom laid down in the car. Now its time to connect it to the fuse box.
WARNING I TAKE NO RESPONSABILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU MAY CAUSE, MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
Disconnect the battery please as you will be playing with the fuse box.
If your car has the plug under the dash to the left of the column then your lucky, just connect the multi-plug and add the fuses and test the system, if not then you need to do a bit more work.
Pull down the loom from the donor car and cut the insulating tape so that the multi-plug is accessible. Chase the wires back as far as possible,
There will be:
Thick brown
Thick black/yellow
Red/yellow
Grey/yellow
Red/white
Cut the thick brown wire off where it connects to the other brown wires.
Cut the grey yellow wire off where it joins the rest.
The rest of the cables need to be chased to the fuse box, DO NOT CUT THEM
With the fuse box removed, and relay board separated, find fuse 3 remove the fuse the wire that goes into this is the red yellow one from the plug. Get a small flat screwdriver and push it down the side of brass connector, you may have to do this a few times to release the contact. Pull the cable and the connector should come out of the fuse box. Now do the same for the connector directly below it, this will have a thick red and blue wire connected to it, that is connected to the + bus bar, pull the connector and remove it. Place to one side.
Now remove fuse 18 this is for the electric windows, on the connector the wire will be the black/yellow one from the plug. Remove the connectors as described above and remove the cable. You will notice that the connector below has a thick black wire that is connected to the ignition rely, you will have to cut this, ensure you get a good amount of wire on it and remove from the fuse box.
The red and white wire from the multi-plug goes to the middle of the ignition relay. Remove the relay and poke out the connector in the same way as described above. Take the relay with you as well, you’ll need it.
Disconnect the battery please as you will be playing with the fuse box.
On your car you will need to put the cables into your fuse box, repeat the above but in reverse order into your box.
The thick black wire from fuse 18 will need to be soldered to your existing black wire; this is easier said than done, as it is a thick cable. Once done insulate the cable and your sorted.
Group all the cables together and run them back up the loom taping it up as you go to make it look all-original.
The thick brown wire from the plug can be earthed anywhere, I connected it to the steering column; just crimp an eyelet on the cable and screw to the chassis.
The grey/yellow wire was soldered to the illumination cables under the dash in a similar place to where it was cut.
Again insulate and tidy the cables.
Push together the multi-plug and socket, add the fuses to the fuse box put the fuse box back and re connect the battery.
Secure all cables and insulate any bare wires with tape.
If you have done it right then the central locking should work from either door inside and out. If electric windows are installed they should work as well either from the centre consol or doors, only when the ignition is on.
The boot release will only work if the ignition is in the off position, it will not allow the boot to be opened while the car is running.
This guide is exactly the same for the 5 door, but the motors are slightly different for the rear doors, but same principal, as the loom goes up the B pillar and through into the door.
rear door
rod guide/protector
motor mounts
rubber pipe, there will be bungs in the door and pillar to remove,
And that’s it the end of the guide, I hope you find it useful.
some pictures added
Enjoy
Andy
Last edited by AW3K on Mon May 09, 2005 8:16 pm, edited 9 times in total.
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by Max M4X WW on Fri Jun 25, 2004 8:34 am
Excelent, Ill read that properly later to see if ive done my boot release properly and how to do my C/L when the motors come. The wires are allready in though.
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bit long winded i know but usefull (i hope)
by Max M4X WW on Fri Jun 25, 2004 7:01 pm
Mate, Do Mk3.5 style boot popper switches have illumination which comes on with sidelights?
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by AW3K on Mon Jun 28, 2004 8:58 pm
Max M4X WW :Mate, Do Mk3.5 style boot popper switches have illumination which comes on with sidelights?
As far as i'm aware none of them are illuminated,
the small square one i used has the pins for the illumination i think but they are not connected to anything.
Hope that helps
Andy
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by Max M4X WW on Mon Jun 28, 2004 10:29 pm
Hmm, Thats weird. Getting a new one from ford now again.
Mk4 ones light up though
Mk4 ones light up though
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by Rhinopower on Wed Oct 20, 2004 8:41 am
very good mate, didnt see anything about a relay though, my loom has the scoket for one, and also TWO multiplugs to be connected and a small box of tricks saying something about centeral locking relay blah blah blah, where should it fit??
MotorcyclesFish :The thing is if I caught Brian fudgekin a bloke, I wouldn't think 'oh Brian's a gay', I'd think 'Brian that fudgekin weird haired mongoloid is raping a gay to see if anyone finds it funny'
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by AW3K on Wed Oct 20, 2004 3:47 pm
Rhinopower :very good mate, didnt see anything about a relay though, my loom has the scoket for one, and also TWO multiplugs to be connected and a small box of tricks saying something about centeral locking relay blah blah blah, where should it fit??
Hi mate
is your car mk 3 or mk 3.5?
i did this for a mk 3 so i think mk3.5 are slightly different, i believe the control unit you speak of goes behind the drivers kick pannel near your foot.
hope it helps,
not more i can say really without seeing the plugs and boxes etc.
Andy
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by Rhinopower on Wed Oct 20, 2004 6:47 pm
3.5, i think there should be a way of re-wiring it 2 get round the unit, unless anyone knows a good reason to keep it!
MotorcyclesFish :The thing is if I caught Brian fudgekin a bloke, I wouldn't think 'oh Brian's a gay', I'd think 'Brian that fudgekin weird haired mongoloid is raping a gay to see if anyone finds it funny'
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by AW3K on Mon Apr 04, 2005 5:51 pm
Hi guys i'm not sure about those wires, is it a propper ford loom or an aftermarket one? the brown and white on an after market kit is the lock unlock pulse, do they have connectors on them? if so then its more than likely to be an aftermarket.
i've just removed a loom from a mk3.5 3 door and there are no wires that colour.
the 3.5 had no central locking control unit, well if there was i missed it?
Glad this guide is still alive lol
Andy
i've just removed a loom from a mk3.5 3 door and there are no wires that colour.
the 3.5 had no central locking control unit, well if there was i missed it?
Glad this guide is still alive lol
Andy
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by 2309andy on Tue Apr 26, 2005 12:40 am
wickid guide matey, will be using it thursday, boot release, have all necessary parts, [ERRR] be easy as ihave that connector thing below the steering wheel
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by AW3K on Tue Apr 26, 2005 11:48 am
Hi
glad its useful.
please note that this guide is not for any car with PATS , the pats system uses a relay box in the drivers footwell as there are PATS modules in the central locking motors, boot and doors.
If i get chance i will write a guide for that but i can't see it being for a while.
Andy
glad its useful.
please note that this guide is not for any car with PATS , the pats system uses a relay box in the drivers footwell as there are PATS modules in the central locking motors, boot and doors.
If i get chance i will write a guide for that but i can't see it being for a while.
Andy
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Re: Guide: Fitting Central Locking, Electric Windows & Boot
by Sviro on Sun Apr 11, 2010 8:33 pm
Hi, is there any possibility about readding pics ? thanks
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Re: Guide: Fitting Central Locking, Electric Windows & Boot
by AW3K on Mon Apr 12, 2010 10:52 pm
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Re: Guide: Fitting Central Locking, Electric Windows & Boot
by Sviro on Tue Apr 13, 2010 2:29 pm
Cannot find it, found only boot popper and locks changing, nothing about central lockin, can u give me a direct link ?
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Re: Guide: Fitting Central Locking, Electric Windows & Boot
by AW3K on Wed Apr 14, 2010 5:24 pm
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Re: Guide: Fitting Central Locking, Electric Windows & Boot
by Sviro on Wed Apr 14, 2010 9:51 pm
ou I tought it is only for el. windows :) thanks
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