head work [guide] Page 3

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Re: head work

Postby crazycage on Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:20 pm

dangerousdave wrote:i can use a cnc but its only a small ( 1m bed) 4 axis one, so would prob be unsuitable!... im on it next week making my inlet adaptor ive spent the last 2 nights drawing up :) :)

you would need to hand port the fist one then progarm the cnc
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Re: head work

Postby freak power on Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:34 pm

As caged said you can just stick one in a CNC and do the work

A head is ported by hand

Then tested on a flow bench to get the desired flow

Head is placed in a 5 axis CNC machine were a probe scans the port and combustion chamber and the information is kept in the CNC memory

A unmodified head is mounted in the CNC and copy's the hand ported head

CNC head are good for the people that are selling ported heads as a great time saver

You really need to Lean and understand air flow within a cylinder head and lean how to port a head and then get/make a flow bench to see how good your work is
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Re: head work

Postby dangerousdave on Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:54 pm

yeah i program it easy enough, could prob do it on the 4 axis one but it will prob take a little time to setup 'conquering device' on! :)

but ive seen a video of a six axis miller (or machining centre there sometimes called now) porting a head :Q :Q sweet :)
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Re: head work

Postby freak power on Wed Jan 27, 2010 7:15 pm

Any progress CC?

If you lived near me then i would stick it on my flowbench for free just to see what it would do
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Re: head work

Postby crazycage on Wed Jan 27, 2010 7:24 pm

freak power wrote:Any progress CC?

If you lived near me then i would stick it on my flowbench for free just to see what it would do

tbh i havent been near it for the last two weeks :cry: im going to take the head into work and cut it in half to see the wall thickness of the ports :D ,i need to get hold of a standard head to start on for my car.

where do you live in in the north west, what kind of flow bench is it ?
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Re: head work

Postby freak power on Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:45 pm

Leeds and i will soon have a PTS/68 hybrid flowbench capable of 600cfm's if i get the right motors

Superflow's are just to much to buy brand new or even second hand
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Re: head work

Postby freak power on Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:49 pm

You also could do with one of these

http://www.olympus-ims.com/en/25-multi-plus/
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Re: head work

Postby freak power on Fri May 28, 2010 6:09 pm

Any news on the head?
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Re: head work

Postby freak power on Fri May 28, 2010 6:33 pm

Ok here is a BASIC guide for you



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------WARNING-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


THIS IS A GUIDE ONLY, I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR PERSONAL INJERY OR DAMAGE TO ANY CYLINDER HEADS DONE BY FOLLOWING THIS GUIDE, IF YOU ARE UNSURE THEN PLEASE SEND THE HEAD TO A SPECIALIST FOR THE WORK TO BE DONE.






Right lets get started

Health and safety is very important so get yourself some eye protection and a dust mask at least. You don't want aluminium swarf in your eyes or in your lungs from the dust produced by the emery cloth from the finishing.

The tools

Over the many years of doing head work you pick up you own ways of doing things and you make your own tools also but the the main tool you need is a air die grinder or a electrical one thats capable of 25,000 rpms, the one you will see I'm using is a electrical one. Don't even bother with a drill with a flex shaft as at the most it will run about few thousands rpm's and is only able to run at less than a hour before it starts to over heat if your lucky.

Here is what i use

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=792327&name=die+grinder&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=48

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Heavy-Duty-Flexible-Drive-Unit-20091.htm

Here is a few things you will need

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As you can see some of the stuff is self explanatory and some not but all of it will be covered as i go though this thread

Carbide burrs

I found that the good ones can last a life time if looked after, i Paid £25+ for each of these but i'm doing this a lot so the cheaper ones will be fine for you

http://www.cromwell.co.uk/quicksearch?search=carbide+burrs&x=0&y=0

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Cartridge roll test kit

Used for some of the head to reach places

http://www.cromwell.co.uk/YRK2059800K

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Scotchbrite/emery cloth roll, Flap sander, Scotchbrite roll, split rod to use with emery cloth and two of my tools i made for making sure the ports and round, smooth and uniformed and one that i use the most as to replace the emery cloth is easy and cheaper than the flap wheels.

flap wheel and scotchbrites found at www.rdgtools.co.uk

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Emery cloth 60 grit, 120 grit, 180 grit and 400 grit

[url=http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=retrieveTfg&binCount=38&[ERRR]=4294957561&N=4294962344+4294776144]http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=retrieveTfg&binCount=38&[ERRR]=4294957561&N=4294962344+4294776144[/url]

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spring calipers set is used to make sure every port is the same size and that each port is the same diameter run though

Found at any machine mart

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Spring compressor, this is a great little one that fits zetec, I4 and even Vag 20v head with small tappets, its light and come with different size fitting

Also found at machine mart

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Oil seal removal tool, loads better that a pair of pliers, trust me if you ever come to dismantling a 20v Vag head or motor bike head these are a must

I got these cheap on ebay at £20 they have been modified to get a small bore tappet holes.

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When dismantling the head you want to keep every valve component in the right order they came out of as that part is worn matched to the guide, if fitting new valves some time new guides and seats need recutting, if the old parts go back in the wrong order they will wear out faster. This is just a bit of MDF with holes drilled in it marked with what cylinder and valve number

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Digital caliper, i will show you what this is used for later in the thread

Also found in machine mart

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Magnetic pick up tool for when you remove the collets

Found in most Halfords and motor spares shop

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Head stand for disassemble and reassembling the head as this will make things much easier. found very cheap on Ebay

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You've now stripped you head and you've keep everything in order what you need to do next is clean the head and inspect it for any damage, seeing most of you will be reading this to do work on there I4 then you will be looking for cracks. You don't want to be doing hours of work on a head to find out its cracked and rendered useless.

When cleaning a head your best getting one of these but if not a old tube with lots of hot soppy water, a jet wash is another or your mother/other half dish washer.

You could also use brick acid or oven cleaner on stubborn dirt

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Right your about to start

Its not the easiest to see what your doing so some sort of light is needed the brighter the better, You can also in the picture a vacuum cleaner to keep the dust down

At this point if its a head i've never worked on i will make a mould of the port with silicone rubber to see were the restrictions are but this is something you wont be doing as its one of the advanced side of head portering.

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Right what are the bits that can be removed to increase flow, the guide is one but if the guide is short in the first place then you don't want to shorten it as this will increase wear anyway this one is small and fine to flatten and make flush with the port wall.

The next this is the siemese split on this 16v head

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Go round the head check the head and see where you could break though into the water jacket, you don't want that to happen, just use a scribe and your finger to get a idea

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When starting take a look at were the seat its and don't grind it or the head will be scrap

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If you cant see it because of carbon build up then do a bit of valve grinding with some engineering blue

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You can now see a light grey line were the seat is

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Use a correct size burr for the size of the port, too big of a burr in the port can snag in a sharp corner of a port and break damaging the head or yourself. This is were the best of the performance will come just behind the valve.

Keep the tool moving, don't stop in one place as you will get a uneven surface

Take it out to the valve seat were the valve sits

DON'T MAKE THE SEAT TO SLIM ON THE I4 AS THEY NEED BIGISH SEATS BECAUSE OF THE HEADS ARE PRONE TO CRACKS BECAUSE OF HEAT

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Tapper the port here making it flat will loose you bhp

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Use lube to cool the burr as it works best when cool and it will look after the burr

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Check your work all the time, stop and blow away all chipping with a blow gun

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This is were the caliper comes in

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take note of the size of the port and repeat on the rest of the ports

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Before you started the head will look like this

Before

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And what its looks like after

After

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I've opened the port a bit more on this head to match the gasket line

Repeat on the rest of the ports checking port sizes and valve seats as you go

Thats the main cutting done

Right emery cloth time

You can see other restrictions that can be removed with emery cloth or a flap wheel, starting with a 60 grit

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As again keep the tool moving and use WD40 to keep its lubricated

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Take a look at your work and this is what is should look like

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Now i swap tools to the one i made to do the ports, it make it easier to open the ports all the way though and not at the ends. Now with a 120 grit cloth.

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You can also use a split rod with emery cloth in it

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When doing the exhaust ports i spend more time on them and take out more metal than i would on the inlet ports, There tends to be less work done at the factory on the exhaust ports for economies of scale leaving more scope for gains, its is especially important with turbo engines as this will give better spool up for the turbo.

Here is what the the port should look like

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Going over the port with a scotchbrite to finish off the port

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I normally finish off the inlet port with 120 grit and the exhaust with 180 grit and depending on the engine i might go over the exhaust port with 400 grit to stop carbon build up

Going back to my own tool again i use it to clean up the manifold face

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The same goes for the exhaust side so just repeat the steps above one that side

Next step with be modifying the combustion chamber and removing valve shrouding

Right now we go onto the combustion chamber

Most people that do head work over look the chamber and leave it as standard but not me or some others out there.

Why are we doing this? Valve shrouding.. Whats thats you ask.

Anything thats near the valve head is shrouding

As seen below near the spark plug, also we are smoothing the chamber to stop carbon build up

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Right this is what you need to smooth the chamber

Find some old valves and ground the face down

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Place them in the head and as you can see the valves sit lower in the head


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Using your tools seen on page one start to sand down the chamber

As you can see whats been done now

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As before start with a 60 grit and work your way down 80, 120 and then 400

Standard

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Modified

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Once thats done you need to CC the chambers to make sure there all the same and if not you need to even them up

( no pictures of this as i forgot )

Cleaning the valves

Us a wire wheel to get the worst off

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Then stick the valve in a piller drill and lube it up and use some 80 grit emery cloth

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When there all done its time to lap the valves in with a grinding stick or if you do loads of head like i do then i use a drill but dont run it to fast and make sure the valve steam is lubed up when in the guide.

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Now thats all done its time for a skim

Just to finish off when it comes to the rebuild use some good quality engine assembly lube/paste that can be found on ebay, use loads on the valve before you install them and lots of you cam/cams, tappets/lifter and cam caps

The last thing you need to do is give the head a skim as i bet when you work on your head you will most likely scratch of scuff the face.

Also seeing it is at the machine shop you may want to get the seats recut depending on the head it may also be a good idea to get the seats recut to 3 or 5 angles

The finished this ready to be sent out to the customer


If people like this then i might go on to flow bench work and how to use one and make your own flow bench and design your own software

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Last edited by freak power on Thu Jul 08, 2010 10:52 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: head work

Postby crazycage on Fri May 28, 2010 8:11 pm

freak power wrote:Any news on the head?

yes its done and been on the engine for the last 3k :) doing about 370hp @19psi on my little gt28 :D pulled a 123mph terminal last month at the pod with a fooked box and really slow gear changes .
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Re: head work

Postby freak power on Fri May 28, 2010 8:15 pm

Bit late with the guide above then lol

Go's better don't you think with that valve set up don't you think
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Re: head work

Postby crazycage on Fri May 28, 2010 8:29 pm

freak power wrote:Bit late with the guide above then lol

Go's better don't you think with that valve set up don't you think

lol no worries ,it makes interesting reading for manny people i would think :D .

yeah its going well for a home built and home mapped car :)
but i kept the standard size valves for now but i will be building a drag only engine for next year that will have bigger valves and a much bigger turbo 500hp will be the target :o
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Re: head work

Postby Ruishy1 on Sat May 29, 2010 8:24 am

very nice guide there, very comprehensive.
this needs to be added to the guides section :)
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Re: head work

Postby freak power on Sat May 29, 2010 9:27 am

Ruishy1 wrote:very nice guide there, very comprehensive.
this needs to be added to the guides section :)


I'm sure a mod or admin will do so
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Re: head work

Postby dangerousdave on Sat May 29, 2010 9:38 am

yeah a good read! might give it a go one day :)
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Re: head work

Postby freak power on Sat May 29, 2010 2:34 pm

if you plan on doing it yourself then be very careful and try on a scrap head
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Re: head work

Postby Excursion on Sun May 30, 2010 12:45 pm

Superb Guide, really really good.
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Re: head work

Postby Ruishy1 on Sun May 30, 2010 2:29 pm

would it not be beter to run a reamer through the valve guides after, incase of burrs on the lip after grinding it down :)
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Re: head work

Postby freak power on Sun May 30, 2010 7:23 pm

no need for a reamer, the finer cloths normal cleans them up

Thank you excursion
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Re: head work

Postby FRSJON on Mon May 31, 2010 10:30 pm

great guide and lovely work :Q
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Re: head work

Postby Smo on Mon May 31, 2010 11:50 pm

That's a fantastic guide, really enjoyed reading through that :D

Not sure I'd attempt it myself yet, however I do have a couple of only Zetec heads I could certainly practice with, so possibly!

Definitely needs to go in the guides section :)

Out of interest, what do you typically charge for that sort of work?
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Re: head work

Postby freak power on Tue Jun 01, 2010 6:56 am

Smo wrote:what do you typically charge for that sort of work?


As i'm not a trader on here i'm not allowed to say

PM me
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Re: head work

Postby freak power on Tue Jun 01, 2010 7:43 am

FRSJON wrote:great guide and lovely work :Q


All done on a ST170 head too
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Re: head work [guide] Page 3

Postby freak power on Tue Jun 01, 2010 6:01 pm

If you have any questions then please post them here or PM me
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Re: head work

Postby FRSJON on Tue Jun 01, 2010 9:25 pm

[quote="freak power"][quote="FRSJON"]great guide and lovely work :Q[/quote]

All done on a ST170 head too[/quote]
keeping that in mind for the future
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Re: head work [guide] Page 3

Postby freak power on Tue Jun 01, 2010 9:38 pm

I'll have to do a guide on a CVH
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Re: head work [guide] Page 3

Postby freak power on Wed Jun 09, 2010 10:36 pm

Will be starting a CVH one next week
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Re: head work [guide] Page 3

Postby freak power on Wed Jul 28, 2010 7:53 pm

Could someone have a look at my post as i've edited it and now the picture won't show?
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Re: head work [guide] Page 3

Postby soundboy93 on Sun Aug 01, 2010 12:47 am

[quote="freak power"]I'll have to do a guide on a CVH[/quote]

hey mate, did you do a cvh head atall?

thanks
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Re: head work [guide] Page 3

Postby freak power on Sun Aug 01, 2010 1:36 am

Not yet as i'm still waiting for the person to send it to me to be worked on

It will be posted when its done
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Re: head work [guide] Page 3

Postby soundboy93 on Sun Aug 01, 2010 2:15 am

okay mate, thankyou in advance then :]

about the coding problem; it says at the side 'BBcode is OFF' could you/thread starter have possibly disabled it somehow?
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Re: head work [guide] Page 3

Postby freak power on Tue Oct 26, 2010 10:58 pm

I was unable to do a CVH head yet sorry

May be some time
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Re: head work [guide] Page 3

Postby freak power on Mon Nov 22, 2010 1:10 am

Some pictures of a Golf V5 head

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Re: head work [guide] Page 3

Postby freak power on Mon Feb 14, 2011 7:41 pm

Well it looks like i will be doing a CVH head soon so i'll post a how to on that when done
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Re: head work [guide] Page 3

Postby Wittmann on Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:22 pm

Thats nice!
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