[guide] Free power: removing pulse air system on the Zetec-E

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[guide] Free power: removing pulse air system on the Zetec-E

Postby bcracknell on Mon Apr 04, 2005 11:05 pm

Ok here it is, hope it makes sense....

Why do I want to do this?

To be honest...I'm not sure, personally I'm building a track car and want as little clutter and crap in the engine bay as possible. Also the pulse air injectors have something to do with emmsions and probably economy, something I'm not to worried about as the car is to be used on track.

Some people say theres a performance gain but I'm not convinced but for a total of £4.70 and about 30mins work you can't go wrong really.


What do I need?

Spanners/sockets/toolkit
4 x 6732263 - Copper washers (see pic below)
4 x 1008597 - Blanking Plugs (see pic below)

Image

Image

What do I need to do?

ok you need to start by removing the MAF sensor and inlet/crossover pipe so your engine now looks a bit like this (only less blurry and probably cleaner!)

Image

Once thats removed you also need to remove the fan, you can do this by removing the 10mm bolt from the top mounting. It's easier to get out if you unclip the starter motor wiring and fan wiring from it first so it doesn't catch on the water piping nearby.

Next remove the manifold heat shield, first undo the 2 8mm bolts holding the metal water pipe in place and then theres only 4 bolts - 2 into the head and 2 into the manifold to get the heatsheild off. You can now see what we're trying to remove:

Image

Then it's just a case of getting a 19mm spanner and undoing the pipes 1 by 1....if your car is anything like mine then they are probably a bit difficult to remove so I decided to get a 19mm 6 sided socket on them. The pipes are very thin and cut easily...as you can see:

Image

To remove the pulse air piping follow the 2 metal pipes down towards the starter and you'll see a big black box bolted to the block infront of the crank position sensor. Remove the 2 10mm bolts and unplug the vacum hose then carefully remove the whole assemby making sure you don;t damage the radiator.

This is what we've removed...you can see the pipes that go inside the mainfold here:

Image

This is it all removed:

Image

now all you need to do is get the 4 washers and blanking plugs and an 8mm allen key and screw them into the holes in the maifold.
Also, remember that vacum hose you unplugged? All you need to do is follow it back to the solonoid on the bulk head and cut the pipe short, then all I did was block it off with a bolt...If anyone has a better suggestion then please let me know.

And in true Haynes manual fashion......re-fitting is the reverse of removal!
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Postby jdfiesta on Tue Apr 05, 2005 1:47 am

excellent guide, was considering doing this to mine, any faults with it yet?
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Postby Percy! on Tue Apr 05, 2005 2:05 am

Will be doing this myself soon.

I think there may be a slight power gain as there will be less restriction in the exhaust manifold.
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Re: [guide] Free power: removing pulse air system on the Zet

Postby PaulC on Tue Apr 05, 2005 8:52 am

bcracknell wrote:All you need to do is follow it back to the solonoid on the bulk head and cut the pipe short, then all I did was block it off with a bolt...If anyone has a better suggestion then please let me know.

From that solenoid I have about half an inch of pipe and I put a bolt in it, works fine and has passed MOT fine :) The EGR I believe is just to get the engine and cat up to temperature quicker so it makes no difference once the engine is warm. This is the only thing I could come up with as unplgging the solenoid isnt an option.
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Postby Max M4X WW on Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:59 am

Cool. Will be usefull if i 2.0 mine.

The plugs look like plastic though :-?

If you change to an aftermarket exhaust manifold, do they have mounting holes for the water rail and heatsheild?
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Postby bcracknell on Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:26 am

Max M4X WW wrote:Cool. Will be usefull if i 2.0 mine.

The plugs look like plastic though :-?

If you change to an aftermarket exhaust manifold, do they have mounting holes for the water rail and heatsheild?


I think the plugs are painted ally, or mild steel. I guess the paint will probably burn off over time but I doubt that matters.

The heat sheild has 2 bolts into the head and 2 bolts into the manifold, the water pipe bolts onto the heat sheild. You'd still be able to use the 2 bolts into the head if you change the manifold so I should think that would be enought o hold it in place.
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Postby bcracknell on Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:29 am

jdfiesta wrote:excellent guide, was considering doing this to mine, any faults with it yet?
oh and...
you need a stainless water rail, click link in my sig
JJ

Cheere mate,

No faults as yet, starts fine and runs axactly as before. Can't really comment on any power gains as I havn't used the car much as it's a track car.

The water rail is fine for now, it's not actually as coroded as it looks....besides the engine will be a 2.0l very soon :D
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Re: [guide] Free power: removing pulse air system on the Zet

Postby Ollybee on Thu Jul 21, 2005 11:07 pm

PaulC wrote: as unplgging the solenoid isnt an option.


Why is that then?

bcracknell wrote:4 x 6732263 - Copper washers (see pic below)
4 x 1008597 - Blanking Plugs (see pic below)


And which company would understand these codes? Ford?
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Re: [guide] Free power: removing pulse air system on the Zet

Postby Ollybee on Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:57 pm

ollybee wrote:
PaulC wrote: as unplgging the solenoid isnt an option.


Why is that then?

bcracknell wrote:4 x 6732263 - Copper washers (see pic below)
4 x 1008597 - Blanking Plugs (see pic below)


And which company would understand these codes? Ford?


So can anybody answer these two questions please?
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Postby Max M4X WW on Thu Jul 28, 2005 1:10 pm

Ford!
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Re: [guide] Free power: removing pulse air system on the Zet

Postby PaulC on Thu Jul 28, 2005 1:12 pm

ollybee wrote:
PaulC wrote: as unplgging the solenoid isnt an option.


Why is that then?

I had mine unplugged and it literally drank fuel
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Postby Ollybee on Thu Jul 28, 2005 1:36 pm

Mine doesn't seem overly thirsty. I'm getting about 250 miles to a tank on an 1800. How significant was your increase in economy. I have just left the pipes off. Could you tell me which pipe you plug into the solenoid and which spur off the solenoid you have blocked up. Many thanks.
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Postby javablu on Thu Jul 28, 2005 1:45 pm

TBH 2 people I know have them done to their 2L and they say no difference, only an exhaust note.. but they have full systems probably adding to that :)

Still, good mod
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Postby PaulC on Thu Jul 28, 2005 1:47 pm

I'm getting about 300 miles to a tank mate, so not much different.

It was very thirsty, cant really explain but used alot more than it should have. The solenoid is still plugged into the ECU, the pipe to the manifold is still there, just the pipe that went to the pulse air is blocked off.

My guess would be the ECU was still using it for some kind of measurement? All I know is plugging it back in fixed it!
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Postby Max M4X WW on Thu Jul 28, 2005 1:49 pm

I personally like removing as much as i can, Makes things a bit simpler lol.

Anyone care to explain to me what this carbon canister thing in my drivers side wing is? :oooh:
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Postby LiamMc on Fri Jul 29, 2005 3:40 pm

I'd like to know what the carbon cannister thingy is aswell. No point putting it back if its not needed.
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Postby PaulC on Fri Jul 29, 2005 3:42 pm

Not 100% fully sure on the workings but I believe its relating to fuel vapours and emmisions. Sure somebody else will know tho :D
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Postby sailorbob on Fri Jul 29, 2005 4:35 pm

The carbon canister is to temporarily store the fuel vapours from the fuel tank (to avoid them going into the atmosphere). When the right engine conditions are met the ecu allows them to be vented into the inlet manifold and burnt off.
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Postby Max M4X WW on Fri Jul 29, 2005 4:38 pm

Sounds like a timebomb :lol:
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Postby PaulC on Fri Jul 29, 2005 4:50 pm

You learn something new everyday :D So now I know why its called a purge solenoid!
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Postby Captain Tightpants on Sun Jul 31, 2005 3:54 am

It's interesting, I've never noticed this post before now. I did remove my EGR system, albeit a different way.

The EGR reduces pumping loss by reducing manifold vacuum. It does, however, lower NOx by reducing the concentration of O2 in the cylinder. In essence, it lowers the oxygen content of the air by some 10-15%. This added 'inert' gas absorbs the energy from burning the fuel and oxygen, releasing it on the expansion stroke. It would be equivalent to raising the nitrogen content of air from 78 or 79% up to around 82 or 85%. The more dilute oxygen tends to lower the combustion chamber temperature.

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Postby FezzR on Sun Jul 31, 2005 9:30 am

Scort wrote:It's interesting, I've never noticed this post before now. I did remove my EGR system, albeit a different way.

The EGR reduces pumping loss by reducing manifold vacuum. It does, however, lower NOx by reducing the concentration of O2 in the cylinder. In essence, it lowers the oxygen content of the air by some 10-15%. This added 'inert' gas absorbs the energy from burning the fuel and oxygen, releasing it on the expansion stroke. It would be equivalent to raising the nitrogen content of air from 78 or 79% up to around 82 or 85%. The more dilute oxygen tends to lower the combustion chamber temperature.

Steve

as well as usually filling the inlet with carbon deposits and manufactures like to fire the egr at the back of the throttle body causing running problems, also raises inlet temps
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Postby sailorbob on Sun Jul 31, 2005 10:06 am

Mmm, this thread seems to getting all mixed up, secondary air injection, EGR and canister purge all together.

A point to bear in mind when getting rid of the secondary air injection is that the air pump is used at times other than start up, especially at WOT when richer AF ratios are being used. This is in order to protect the cat and reduce emissions. Also because the standard manifiold flows pretty abysmally the minor restriction offered by the tubes projecting into the line of the gas is minimal.
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Postby Ollybee on Sun Jul 31, 2005 10:24 am

sailorbob wrote:Mmm, this thread seems to getting all mixed up, secondary air injection, EGR and canister purge all together.


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Postby Ollybee on Tue Aug 02, 2005 9:14 pm

Good guide. Got my parts from Ford and it was about a fifteen minute job. Has anybody whos has done this noticed any difference? I haven't! :(
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Postby Luke_Si on Mon Aug 15, 2005 11:23 pm

I have done it sounds nicer now :) but no power.
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Postby javablu on Thu Aug 25, 2005 11:03 pm

Lovely old job.. My system didn't pop before.. now when it comes down it pops so definately more air going through.. irons out a few flat spots too.. revs harder through 3-4 :)
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Postby javablu on Mon Aug 29, 2005 11:11 am

:aaah:

Went for a spin in mine last night was going about 30 and one of the baxtered popped out!

Fixed it, went out again, and the same thing again another one popped out :cry:

I lost that one so gonna have to get some more from ford :rolleyes:

Getting then welded in this time.. bloody things.
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Postby Max M4X WW on Mon Aug 29, 2005 6:01 pm

I thought they screwed in?
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Postby javablu on Tue Aug 30, 2005 11:11 am

They do, they were tightened right up and they popped out. :(
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Postby Ollybee on Tue Aug 30, 2005 4:53 pm

That's weird!
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Postby javablu on Wed Sep 21, 2005 11:52 am

JB auto weld on the case and job done :D pops like a gooden again :D
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Postby luke89 on Tue Oct 11, 2005 2:05 pm

going to do mine now dosent look to hard and hope it sounds better than it dose now lol good guide :Q

edit : done mine sounds much better havnt driven it as i have no cluch, removed the heat shild also looks a bit better now :Q
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Postby jdfiesta on Tue Nov 29, 2005 10:14 am

Just rang my local ford parts. 97p each for blanking plugs, 11p each for washers. bank breaking. they're special order parts though
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Postby FezzR on Mon Jan 02, 2006 1:26 pm

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=EGR


oh look there is some that describe how EGR works that difficult aint it
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