fiestaturbo.com

[curly]

right i fitted a brand new engine last wednesday,, timed it up, fitted it, did all the checks and it was running sweet,,

weds night i went to the dam in it, friday i came back,, car was purring all the way, never felt such a nice responsive cvh before,, thought brilliant fudgekin class
went and put some petrol in it yesterday, and as i set of from the station,, i got in to second gear and loads of white/blue smoke started billowing out and the engine cut out,, got the recovery wagon to come and collect it,, the recovery guy said he thinks the engine has seized,

the whole car is brand new apart from the block,, i timed it up perfectly and it has not missed a beat for the 800 miles i did in it weds to friday,
water tank is empty,, oil is fine, no mayo,, engine will not turn over at all, starter clicks, but wont turn,, and its free roling in neutral but will not physicly move in any gear when pushing, and you cant see any of the tappets/rockers rocking when you try and push it in gear,,

i have got 2 spare cvh 1.6 engines that i am going to strip and rebuild in to one decnet one,, i was just wondering if anyone had any idea what could have caused this,,
it was literally started up 3 mile drive to the petrol station, filled up went to set off home and it died,,
what i am dreading is the big ends welded to the block,, or worse,, the valves hve smashed themselves to the pistons,,
the belt is still on there,,i just dont understand how the water has pissed out, and wether it was through the engine, or through the head,,

im going to have to do an overhaul,, but i dont particularly want to rip the engine out again after it took me 2 days to do last week, and the 2 other engines ive got are old and past it, and i dont want to rip 3 engines apart to make one good one,,

does anyone have any idea what has caused this,, and how easy it is to fix,

[curly]

i found out what it was,,

basicly the inlet manifold gasket, the one between the manifold and the block,, which is only 3 days old,, had failed at the water port resulting in the water being sucked through the valves and bending the pistons,,

heads allright,, pistons are bent to fick,,

next question,, how easy are the pistons to take out,, how do i get at them,, and what tool do i need to get the rods of??

the heads off and im debating dropping the sump and getting at them that way,,ited be easyer for me to do that rather than take the whole engine out,,

am i rght in thinking there female hex head bolts for the rods??

and would it have scored the block if the pistons are bent??

[rs220bhp]

Block will most likely be knackard aswell mate, will have bent the rods trying to compress the water. Best of getting a second hand block and rebuilding that id say. Maybe damaged the crank aswell

[FRSJON]

sounds terminal and such a shame a simple gasket failier has caused it get the sump off ,undo the big end bolts and (if you can) push the rods/pistons up out of the block ,then you can see the exstent of the damedge

[curly]

yeah its a real shame cos the engine was mint,, i got on to the company that sold me the gasket set and i will "get a phone call" about whats going to come from it,,

i want a new engine from it as it was a new engine going in, the heads fine,, and ive got 2 spare engines, im guna drop the pistons out of one of the spare ones, and wack it in this one, providing the blocks not scored and the cranks not f**cked, cos the crank was new and ited had work done to it aswell,

ill take some pictures of the damage when i know,,

[jayrs]

nasty mate, as soon as i read white smoke my first thought was head gasket, but the inlet gasket, thats not good at all.

as jon said, thats the way to get pistons out.
as for gettign them off the rods, your need some pressure to push the pins out, when my pistons were taken off the rods 10 tonne of pressure was needed to take the old piston pins out! i paid the guy £40 to fit the new pistons to the rods, and its prob the best money i spent, as theres a risk your damage the pistons, they could be fcuked anyway though, if there not, you will prob need new rings at least!

as for swapping pistons, if your block is ok and isnt damaged then it could be reused, but if its been bored then the chances of the pistons from the other engine fitting is slim, as there prob be standard size.

as for company that sold the gasket, dont hold ya breath mate, there find a way round it, prob say it wasnt fitted right or some $hit, but keep on, even at worst that foot a 1/4 of the rebuild cost, its better than nothing

[curly]

i ripped the sump off and lobbed the pistons out,, ive got pictures of the damage,,

no damage to the block, i bent rod 2 pretty badly allmost to the verges of snapping,, 13 and 4 where fine,,

ive taken all 4 out as a matter of course, and ive taken 2 and 3 out of my other engine, vernier says the same size, so guna swap the seals over from the fubard 2 n 3 to the not so shagged 2-3 and refit,,

ive to pay for a gasket set yet again so told the company i want a decent set this time, so its comming from shefffield somewhere

and the company have been notified, there guna test the gasket which is stupid,, as its in 2 peices,, and i am going to take them too the cleaners,, cos im a qualified mechanic and i know my stuff and everything was tightened and torqued to the right settings,,

looks like another bettle on my hands,,

soon as ive been sent the pictures of he rod thats bent, u can have a gander at them ,, very lucky i didnt snap the rod or sink the piston in to the block,,

[mikeymikeyp]

id be thinking about running a bore honer up and down the cylinders before fitting just for a quick clean and a set of rings if your sure the blocks okay

[curly]

you can still see the swirls where its been lightly honed prior to the f**k up,,

there is no lip on the top of the block ports like u get when the ports have been honed out, or any carbon deposit ,, and the rings where new,, i am just guna swap the new rings over and stic the 2 older pistons in and hopefully itll be fine,,


does anyone know how i can go about getting carbon deposits off the piston heads?? i was thinking brake cleaner and a stanley blade,, and scrape away,,

the ones in it where nice and clean, the older pistons have got deposits left on them,, so want to make them clean like the other lot

[jayrs]

sounds like you got away fairly light mate.

the frst and xr2i rods are the same so can be swapped over, i take it no piston damage at all, not even round the ring grooves no?

what sort of veriner you using? tbh you wanna use a mic, theres only about 20 thou difference betwwen standard and next stage over size, a cheapy veriner may well not pic up on such small size

[curly]

duno bout the vernier m8, which ever snap-on man gave me lol,,

as for piston nah nothing just the rod really fudgekin bent taking all the streign thankfully,

its bent nearly 90 degrees and distorted around5 % i think it happened at the length of the stroke, and as its pulled down, pulled in all the water which has filled, then wedged at the bottom and bent,, cos if it wedged at the top, ied have scored the sides, no scoring what so ever in the whole port

[jayrs]

might be worth just double checking the size of pistons to be on safe side.

you were lucky then mate, i cant belive theres isnt more damage!

[curly]

i amaze myself with inovation,,

2 pistons are back in thanks to a jewbellie clip off the air box,

new ring just to keep clean,

2 more to do then sump,, zaust,, inlet!! with a new clean gasket starter,, timing,, rocket cover,, oil and water,, oh and a quick clean, and its off to marina for a test drive,,

i am having it done by tonight, nothing else to do other than clean my room

right i did 800 miles and it went bang, doing no more than 60 mph max, that should have been run in by then surley,, should i go about the same thing about another 200 or so cos has basicly been overhauled again and will be fresh again so

run it in,, or drive it normal,, last trip ran it in??

[jayrs]

your using the same rings in the same bores so that will be ok, im guessing your using new big end bearing though, so i would say take it easy for 100 miles or so

[curly]

sacked it of for tnight n got dominos in,, not bad with staff discount

start again tmorrow

[jayrs]

[curly]

day 8 in the bubi house,,

the pistons are still not in, guna wake up abit more and give them another go,once there in, itll take me an ho ur tops to fit it back together,, just them blastid rings,,

[jayrs]

your be alright mate, just dont crack a ring

[curly]

all 4 fitted, bolted to cranck, sump on,, time to swap stat housing over from old one so i can fit the right temp sensor, then h/g in/out gaskets, rocker,, oil her up, time it coolant fiddley bits then fire her up and the rain hasnt stopped me once,, once ur wet u cant gt wet anymore,, just using a babys waterproof cot matress as a bed n led under haha

[jayrs]

ive used cot mattress before too

[curly]

right well after battering the storm with my stubberness to fix it back together,, did it all and timed it up, went round 360, went round again and got tighter,, so im guna leave the timing to my ex boss so he can do it, or depending on how i feel tomorrow, sit on the soggy ground again and do it myself,

im thinking its out by one tooth, so if i set tdc, and this time take the crank pully off, and use the guide lobe instead of the mark on the pully, wil get it exact,,

good job i didnt just turn it over

i manually turned the head and the block prior by hand before fitting the head gasket,, then used the 0 on the crank pully,, and the arrow/ dot on the cam,,

othe than that its back together,, im fat full of a mean curry complements of my other m8s curry house, and im greated with an empty home so guna blair the telly and have a brew and warm up
on to day 9

[jayrs]

correct way to time these is TDC on both top and bottom pully.
thats base timing, the ecu works out the best time to fire the plugs, so stick with that mate

[curly]

yeah i used the mark on the pully some one kindly left me,,

ive spoken to my old boss(who origionaly built the engine) and he said that from the description i gave him, it shounds like there was slack on the belt

on the (technical bit) " on the belt run from cam to crank, tensioning it up has reversed the cam by a fraction, or the engine blowing has bent the valves,

well i checked the whole block span over nicely as a must,, first priority!! then the cam spins over nicely and all 8valves open and close,,

hoping itll be just a bit out so itll fire up nicely again,, dont have the effort to get cold and wet with arm ache and neck ache,,

bastid gaskets,, im not guna let this go!!

[Smo]

What make was the gasket?

[curly]

smo m8 duno cant think now, been over a week since i last looked at that kit,, as its been sent back,,

as for the new kit its a british gasket company one,,

time dit up,, and as im turning it over, notice the new timing belt i put on a week ago had a slice in the center off it, so drove it to get a new one

and drove it home ,, fitted new timing belt,, and boshed everything back together, and its running perfectly again,, no tappet noise and a nice wooshing noise picking from 3 the sound all 2i`s are ment to make and although i still yet to take it past 3.5k it is certainly responsive at the bottom end!!

i think i was really well and truelly fudgekin lucky with the events,, and im hoping, touch wood, fingers crossed, no standing on lines or black cats and pinch of salt and all that superstition crap,, im hoping it doesnt blow again or a torch is getting thrown at it,, and itll be a quick end to that fes!!

next problem ive got is the temperature,, it climbs and climbs and the fan wont kick in, running perm live to the fan works,, and where ive bridged it before,, the fans on its last legs and the bearing has gone and makes that sad scraping noise,,

does anyone know as to how i can get it so that the fan kicks in again, same stat housing and sencer ive used that came off working before the engine changed,,

just wont kick in now,??

[4992jk1]

only thought i have is i was told when the fans get like that they start to draw more current so it could have blown the fuse

[jayrs]

if the fans like that, replace it.
the plug on the thermo switch on thermostat could be iffy, its a common problem, the burn out, corroed, or the wire breaks in side where people tug the wires to pull them off

[curly]

i think im guna have to get another loom for the stat and fan,, god knows where from,, the sensor isnt telling the fan to come on and shoots the temperature up past n, even tho the fan is on constantly,, is there any other temperature units?? all the same sensors on as it was on the origional engine which worked fine,,

everything still works fine bar the temp and the fan cutting in,


feels like a beast tho,, still not really opened it up,,, only to 4k

[mikeymikeyp]

i think im guna have to get another loom for the stat and fan,, god knows where from,, the sensor isnt telling the fan to come on and shoots the temperature up past n, even tho the fan is on constantly,, is there any other temperature units?? all the same sensors on as it was on the origional engine which worked fine,,

everything still works fine bar the temp and the fan cutting in,


feels like a beast tho,, still not really opened it up,,, only to 4k

if the fan runs constant and you still overheat obviouly the fan wont kik in if its running 100%

so there must be a prob somewhere else flush you water system and take out the theremostat and check if it works

need more details on what you are running engine wise and "yes" im drunk
lol lol lol

[mikeymikeyp]

i think im guna have to get another loom for the stat and fan,, god knows where from,, the sensor isnt telling the fan to come on and shoots the temperature up past n, even tho the fan is on constantly,, is there any other temperature units?? all the same sensors on as it was on the origional engine which worked fine,,

everything still works fine bar the temp and the fan cutting in,


feels like a beast tho,, still not really opened it up,,, only to 4k

if the fan runs constant and you still overheat obviouly the fan wont kik in if its running 100%

so there must be a prob somewhere else flush you water system and take out the theremostat and check if it works

need more details on what you are running engine wise and "yes" im drunk
lol lol lol

[mikeymikeyp]

i think im guna have to get another loom for the stat and fan,, god knows where from,, the sensor isnt telling the fan to come on and shoots the temperature up past n, even tho the fan is on constantly,, is there any other temperature units?? all the same sensors on as it was on the origional engine which worked fine,,

everything still works fine bar the temp and the fan cutting in,


feels like a beast tho,, still not really opened it up,,, only to 4k

if the fan runs constant and you still overheat obviouly the fan wont kik in if its running 100%

so there must be a prob somewhere else flush you water system and take out the theremostat and check if it works

need more details on what you are running engine wise and "yes" im drunk
lol lol lol

[mikeymikeyp]

i think im guna have to get another loom for the stat and fan,, god knows where from,, the sensor isnt telling the fan to come on and shoots the temperature up past n, even tho the fan is on constantly,, is there any other temperature units?? all the same sensors on as it was on the origional engine which worked fine,,

everything still works fine bar the temp and the fan cutting in,


feels like a beast tho,, still not really opened it up,,, only to 4k

if the fan runs constant and you still overheat obviouly the fan wont kik in if its running 100%

so there must be a prob somewhere else flush you water system and take out the theremostat and check if it works

need more details on what you are running engine wise and "yes" im drunk
lol lol lol

[mikeymikeyp]

i think im guna have to get another loom for the stat and fan,, god knows where from,, the sensor isnt telling the fan to come on and shoots the temperature up past n, even tho the fan is on constantly,, is there any other temperature units?? all the same sensors on as it was on the origional engine which worked fine,,

everything still works fine bar the temp and the fan cutting in,


feels like a beast tho,, still not really opened it up,,, only to 4k

if the fan runs constant and you still overheat obviouly the fan wont kik in if its running 100%

so there must be a prob somewhere else flush you water system and take out the theremostat and check if it works

need more details on what you are running engine wise and "yes" im drunk
lol lol lol

[mikeymikeyp]

i think im guna have to get another loom for the stat and fan,, god knows where from,, the sensor isnt telling the fan to come on and shoots the temperature up past n, even tho the fan is on constantly,, is there any other temperature units?? all the same sensors on as it was on the origional engine which worked fine,,

everything still works fine bar the temp and the fan cutting in,


feels like a beast tho,, still not really opened it up,,, only to 4k

if the fan runs constant and you still overheat obviouly the fan wont kik in if its running 100%

so there must be a prob somewhere else flush you water system and take out the theremostat and check if it works

need more details on what you are running engine wise and "yes" im drunk
lol lol lol

[mikeymikeyp]

i think im guna have to get another loom for the stat and fan,, god knows where from,, the sensor isnt telling the fan to come on and shoots the temperature up past n, even tho the fan is on constantly,, is there any other temperature units?? all the same sensors on as it was on the origional engine which worked fine,,

everything still works fine bar the temp and the fan cutting in,


feels like a beast tho,, still not really opened it up,,, only to 4k

if the fan runs constant and you still overheat obviouly the fan wont kik in if its running 100%

so there must be a prob somewhere else flush you water system and take out the theremostat and check if it works

need more details on what you are running engine wise and "yes" im drunk
lol lol lol