Every one should know that this way is a shore fire way of burning your car to the ground!
Below is one of four different ways to do it using ford parts,
This guide is for the XR2I, RS Turbo and RS1800 Fog lights with Driving lamps.
Go out and find a Higher spec Fiesta from a scrap yard for this guide its either XR2I, RS Turbo and RS1800, the ones with the two lights at either side of the fog lights.
We’ll start inside the car. What you need is the switch, the relay and all wiring.
To start, remove the ashtray, the heater slider controls and the heater control knob, simply pull all these out.
Remove the radio if its there, although sometimes it can be left in and pulled out with the panel.
Then remove the panel that surrounds all the above, done by removing two screws at the bottom and one in the middle inside the ashtray aperture, using a small flat bladed screw driver, prise out the top of the panel.
The switch you require is on the right of the switch row, the one with the picture of a light shining down at an angle.
Put your hand up behind the switch via the radio hole and push the switch out, or use a screwdriver to prise it out from the sides. DO NOT pull the switch with the button part, as it WILL DAMAGE it.
Disconnect the wiring multiplug and the single illumination wire. Put the switch safe so you don’t loose it.
Disconnect the other switches, as it will make the next bit a little easier.
Release the fuse box from the dash and cut all the cable ties under the dash at the driver’s side and pull down the complete wiring loom.
Unclip the wiring from the dash and pull the switch section of wires free from the bottom of the dash.
With the wires in full view, you now must cut away the insulation tape to show the wires(use a Stanley knife or scalpel).
First thing that you will notice is that the single illumination grey/yellow wire is attached to the solid grey wire coming from the blue multiplug. This wire is also attached to the side light circuit and all the other illumination wires connects to this, the grey from the rear fog light switch all attach to this also.
Cut this wire just after the join so the grey/yellow and grey wires from the switch are connected together.
The next wire is the earth, the brown one, follow this wire to the solder join and cut it there.
Here’s where it starts getting tricky, you will notice the grey/black and black/yellow wires now. Do not cut these unless absolutely necessary. Follow these wires through the loom to the fuse box.
Now you are at the fuse box you will need to separate the two halves, fuse side and relay side.
With the fuse side in hand, find fuse 14, it’s the 3rd one in on the top row from the left.
Take out the fuse, use a small flat screwdriver and poke each side of the connector to release the barbs and push the connector back. Hopefully the wire that you just released is black/red, that connects directly to a relay, Relay C to be specific.
You will also need the positive feed to fuse 14, this is on the fuse box and the connector covers fuses, 12, 13 and 14. If you look at the back of the fuse board you will see this, you will also see that there is a black/brown wire going to fuse 5, this will also need to be poked out, the black wire from the connector is connected to the ignition relay pin 87, this wire will need to be removed. The simplest way is to pull the relay out, release the relay holder, pull it up, using a small screwdriver, poke down either side of the connector and pull it free from the relay board.
With that wire released, look at the relay side of the board, find relay C, its a little white one slap bang in the middle.
Pull out the relay and keep safe, in fact, take them all, you never know you may need them. Using a screwdriver, prise down the tab at the side of the connecter block and push it up from behind using the black/red wire.
Now that the connector is free from the relay board, use a very small screwdriver and poke down either side of the connectors to release them all. Pull the wires back through the relay board. Keep the black connector block as more than likely you wont have this.
The brown Earth from the relay will need to be cut at the solder joint and removed.
The grey/black from the relay is the same as the grey/black from the switch so simply pull it out of the loom from the switch end.
Notice that the black/yellow wire connector from the relay has 2 of the same wires into the one connector
The thinner one is to the switch, if you can; free this wire from the loom. If the scrappers wont let you cut the rest of the wires, you will need to cut it to remove it.
The thicker wire goes off up the loom out into the engine bay, so that’s where we are going now.
The best place to start is at the front of the car, in front of the radiator in the lower valance. Unclip the wires from the valance and unplug the fog lights if there, either remove them or take the bumper, up to you.
Now you can remove the fog light loom and the simplest way I found to do this is to unplug the headlight, indicator and side lamp from the driver’s side. Unbolt the earth point on the inner wing and then remove the header water tank to gain access to the rubber grommet behind it. The lighting passes through this separately to the main loom.
Unclip the wiring from the inner wing and cut the rubber grommet so that the wires and plugs can be pulled through into the car.
Pull the wires through and proceed to cut the insulation tape away where the clump of wires joins to the main loom.
The wires that you need to keep intact are one white wire and one black/yellow. The rest can be cut off inside the car.
The reason I say to keep the single white wire is because it connects to the headlight wiring from fuse 10. Simply cut this off at the solder join from fuse 10 where the white is connected to the white/blue.
Also the black/yellow wire connects to the relay as previously mentioned so don’t cut it.
Remove all the other wires and you should now have the complete but messy loom out of the car.
Refitting and loom making.
I could just say that refitting is removal, reversed. But it isn’t as simple as that.
Start with the switch, the grey and grey/yellow wires, remember they were soldered together, now you need to solder a small length to the end of these, long enough to reach the next switch in the panel. Insulate the join with heat shrink or insulation tape.
The earth wire from the switch needs to be extended to reach the earth point on the steering column, where the earth from the relay will join it. Terminate these wires with a suitably sized insulated or un-insulated ring.
The grey/black and black/yellow wires are left alone and the whole lot must be wrapped in black insulation tape to match the rest of the wiring, taking consideration to allow the grey/yellow and grey wires out of the loom quite close to the switch multiplug to enable it to be connected to the next switch wiring.
Stop wrapping the wire in the middle of the section and turn your attention to the relay section.
Extend the earth brown wire from the relay to join the earth from the switch.
The black/red wire is independent so requires no attention.
The black/yellow needs a little bit of insulation tape near the connector to reduce strain on it.
The grey/black also requires no attention as it is connected to the switch.
Wrap the wires and work towards the switch end making sure that the thicker black/yellow wire is not being wrapped as it goes to the fogs.
Next work on the loom from the head light. You need to strip out the wiring from the insulation and remove the indicator and side light section.
Cut these off at the earth point but leave the earth intact.
Leave the head light plug and wiring in place, blue/green and white..
From the fog lights multiplugs you will notice there are 2 white, 1 brown, 1 black/yellow and a cluster of 3 brown wires and you will notice that the single brown is connected to the blue/green from the headlight and the short white is connected to the white from the headlight.
The 3 brown are earths and need to be soldered to the earth eyelet that I told you to keep earlier. Heat shrink these to insulate them.
Next move onto the white wire that is connected to the white from the headlight, the best way I found to connect this was to cut the wire about 1cm past the solder join and fold the 1cm over on itself and insulate it with tape.
Do exactly the same for the single brown wire that connects to the blue/green from the headlight.
Cut off the head light plug right at the end so you are left with the 2 wires.
The other white wire that is left should be long; long enough to take back to the fuse box and connect to the solder join before fuse 10 where the white is connected to the white/blue. Do not connect yet.
Wrap the loom up nice and tight where the headlight plug is, back past the earth then it should reduce down to 2 wires, black/yellow and white. Continue wrapping until you get nearly to the end of the white wire.
And that’s the loom made up.
Start at the front of the car, lay down the wiring up the drivers side inner wing and direct the 2 multiplugs down past the headlight under the valance and clip it on just under the radiator with a plug at either side.
When I told you to make up the loom I made you leave the white and the blue/green wires exposed near the headlight, now its time to reconnect these to your headlight wiring. The best way is to bare the ends of the wires and wrap them around a insulation stripped section of the existing headlight wiring. Solder these and insulate them.
Unbolt the original earth point and re-bolt it with the fog light earth under the existing earth.
Remove the header tank and look at the grommet, and think you’ve dropped a clanger here well yes I did, there is no way you can get that plug and relay through there, the best way to do this is to cut the black/yellow and white wire halfway down the inner wing and rejoin it once you have got into the car and pushed the relay side of the wire through the grommet. I say rejoin as in soldering and heat shrink and rewrapped with tape.
Push the wires into the cable clips and return the header tank to its location.
Get inside the car and release the fuse box and unclip the wiring loom from the side of the box.
Separate the relay and fuse sides of the box as mentioned previously.
Take the relay section of wiring and insert the wires into the holes in the space for relay C.
The wires and positions are as follows:
Black/red in the very end large hole,
Black/yellow in the middle
Grey/black in the small hole towards the rear
Brown in the small front hole.
Bend the barbs back out and grab the plastic insert and push the wires up into it until the barbs grip, then push the insert back into the fuse box until it clicks.
Push the relay in and turn the relay board over and find the position of fuse 14.
Now an awkward section, remember that section of wire we removed covering fuses 12, 13, and 14 with the flying lead to fuse 5 and the ignition relay. Well yes of course you do, well its time to fit it.
Poke out your existing wire set up, this will cover fuses 12 and 13 with the lead going to the ignition and fuse 5. Use the method described above to do this.
On the new wire that covers all the above and fuse 14 the barbs need bending back ready to be accepted into the fuse box.
Make sure that the wires are the right way around and insert them into the box.
Now you will notice that in the position of fuse 14 there is only 1 connector, well this is where the black/red wire from the relay that you didn’t plug in lives. Bend the barbs back and push home.
DO NOT put a fuse in yet.
Now is the time to find the white wire from fuse 10 where it is connected to the white/blue.
This is where the single white wire from the fog light loom needs to be connected.
Just before the solder join, bare a section of wire and simply strip the end off the white from the new loom and solder it and insulate it here.
Route the wiring that’s left up under the dash to the middle, where it needs to be directed to the switch panel.
If not already done so, remove the switch panel surround to gain access to the existing switches.
Pop out the rear fog light switch from behind and unplug the switch.
Push the wiring multiplug through the right switch aperture ensuring that the single illumination wire is not in this aperture, it should come out of the next switch hole.
Strip a section of insulation from the illumination wire (Smaller connector) on the exposed section of wire. Strip the end of the single illumination wire from the front fog light switch and wrap it around the bare wire and solder it to make a good connection. Insulate this with insulation tape and fasten all the wires together to ensure they are secure and not able to move.
Refit both fog light switches and replace the trim panel making sure you remove the blanking plug from the panel.
Remove the lower steering column shroud, this is held on by 4 Torx or star headed screws in the plastic.
Remember that earth that I told you to make long enough to reach the steering column, well take it and push it up through the existing wires then either remove the existing earth screw on the right and put the ring behind the existing ring earth, or get another screw and earth the wire in the hole on the left of the column, entirely up to you. Ensure the earth is tight then refit the shroud.
Put the fuse box back together and put it back up into the dash along with all the wiring that will need to be cable tied to make it secure.
Go back to the fuse box and put a fuse into position 14 and reconnect the battery and hopefully everything should be ok.
To test the fog lights and driving lamps you first must plug the lamps into the multiplugs in the lower valance at the front of the car.
Put your key in and turn the ignition on, then put the sidelights on, they should work normally.
Flick the switch to normal headlights and they should also work normally, and then pull the stalk back as if you were flashing someone and the driving lamps should come on with the full beam but go off immediately when the stalk is released.
Push the stalk forward to make the full beam on all the time and the driving lamps will be illuminated as well.
The fog lights are independently switched on via the switch in the dash, but they will not work unless the main beam is switched on.
And that’s all for this guide, it must have been the most long winded guide I have ever written but as you may agree its worth it.
Hope it is of some help and happy Modding.
Guide written by AW3K Andrew Whiteman, 07th September 2005
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Thatnks for taking the time to write it, I'm sure it will be useful for quite a few people.
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AGAR wrote:After a brief run through all i can say is im not looking forward to trying it myself
why not mate, its not as hard as it looks
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