Guide to silencing those noisey HCS tappets of yours

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Postby PaulC on Thu Apr 21, 2005 3:49 pm

VUK wrote:i find changing oil harder :rolleyes:

:o :oooh: :rolleyes: :P
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Postby Badgerboy on Thu Apr 21, 2005 4:05 pm

Fiesta LX wrote:
RS_Rawli wrote:if you dont want to do it, dont fouquette do it, i dont care.


Its not I dont want to do it, I want to make my Fiesta quieter. Its just I dont to do it before knowing that its safe to do and wont fouquette up my car. I cant afford to get another car just cause some guy over the internet said its fail safe.


I think 'buying a new car' is a little extreme, or do you have visions of the car exploding becuase the tappets were not set correctly? If so, I would advise not driving a car again.

I heard if you put too much air in the tyres, the doors can fall off!
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Postby VUK on Thu Apr 21, 2005 4:36 pm

PaulC wrote:
VUK wrote:i find changing oil harder :rolleyes:

:o :oooh: :rolleyes: :P


llama

I was only joking :lol:
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Postby VUK on Thu Apr 21, 2005 4:38 pm

IF! if you break something, which can be either tappets or conrods you can pop down your local scrappy and get new set for like £5
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Postby Fiesta LX on Thu Apr 21, 2005 7:37 pm

I suppose, just dont want to f**k up my car. Just being more careful than I need to be I guess.
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Postby Ollybee on Thu Apr 21, 2005 10:55 pm

Badgerboy wrote:I heard if you put too much air in the tyres, the doors can fall off!


:lol: :lol: :lol:

I best go and check my pressures!!
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Postby James-UK on Sat Apr 23, 2005 3:07 pm

Fiesta LX wrote:Taken from here: http://www.fordfans.cz/download/manual/0686-02a.pdf

"It is seldom that the cam followers wear in their bores, but it is likely that after a high mileage, the cam lobe contact surface will show signs of a depression or grooving. Where this condition is evident, renew the cam followers. Grinding out the wear marks will only reduce the thickness of the hardened metal of the cam follower and accelerate further wear."


I haven't read the rest of that as i can't be bothered to download the .pdf, however, i'm thinking it'll priobably be for the CVH engine which uses cam followers in a bore driven from a rocker operated from the cam.

I do see what you are saying and your tutor does have a point as you shouldn't do this on something that has a hardened coating. However i think you will find the HCS rockers in yours and everyone elses don't have hardened rockers.
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Postby Fiesta LX on Sat Apr 23, 2005 9:34 pm

That web address I posted is about Fiesta HCS engine, not CVH. It doesn't have care hardning you say? I might have to do this somethime then.
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Postby James-UK on Sat Apr 23, 2005 10:34 pm

Oh in that case, the followers are burried in the block, i didn't know they ran in a bore of they're own?

As you've got the cam, then the follower on top of the lobe, then the pushrod, rocker, valve. It's the rocker clearence that you adjust. I'm pretty sure it isn't hardened, best check with ford though or a engine builder if you are concerned.
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Postby Fiesta LX on Sun Apr 24, 2005 8:01 pm

Ok just did this to my Fiesta and it made NO difference. Sounds exactly the same (like an old diesel). What do you guys think it could be?
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Postby Max M4X WW on Sun Apr 24, 2005 9:11 pm

Did you adjust the tappets? (properly!)
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Postby VUK on Sun Apr 24, 2005 9:23 pm

Max M4X WW wrote:Did you adjust the tappets? (properly!)


i guess he didn't

there is nothing to it, if done right it will be quet
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Postby Max M4X WW on Sun Apr 24, 2005 10:08 pm

I must admit i usually have to do mine a couple of times because i manage to mess them up.

I changed my oil recently, its cheap mineral stuff and probably the wrong grade. My dad got it. I think its made it louder.
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Postby Fiesta LX on Sun Apr 24, 2005 11:34 pm

Of course I adjust the tappets corret, 0.2mm on inlet and 0.3mm on exhaust. I might do them tighter sometime but there pretty tight already!
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Postby Max M4X WW on Sun Apr 24, 2005 11:37 pm

What you mean pretty tight :-? They should be that size lol.

How did you do them? i find jacking up the front drivers side wheel, in 4th gear is the easyest way to turn the engine over. Then adjust in 9's..

1 down adjust 8
2 down adjust 7
3 down adjust 6
4 down adjust 5
5 down adjust 4
6 down adjust 3
7 down adjust 2
8 down adjust 1
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Postby Badgerboy on Mon Apr 25, 2005 10:40 am

Remember, the exhaust and inlet valves swap halfway through.

If its still making a noise, then your valves are not seating properly, your timing chain is worn, or your engine is knocking. (Big End bearings)
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Postby VUK on Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:55 am

Badgerboy wrote:Remember, the exhaust and inlet valves swap halfway through.

If its still making a noise, then your valves are not seating properly, your timing chain is worn, or your engine is knocking. (Big End bearings)


or the camshaft is worn
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Postby Fiesta LX on Mon Apr 25, 2005 2:24 pm

I didn't jack up the car or put it in any gear. I just cranked the engine using a spanner. I set the gap in order (from left to right)...

1st = 0.3mm
2nd = 0.2mm
3rd = 0.3mm
4th = 0.2mm
5th = 0.2mm
6th = 0.3mm
7th = 0.2mm
8th = 0.3mm
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Postby Max M4X WW on Mon Apr 25, 2005 2:26 pm

How many miles has it done
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Postby Fiesta LX on Mon Apr 25, 2005 2:39 pm

about 86K
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Postby Ghost on Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:14 pm

this does work.........but saying that you are going to need alot of things in time with each other and some decent oil.

im doing this again tomorow as mine have got loader again, but i cant afford the oil :cry:

so i have to wait a bit or borrow some cash :rolleyes:
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Postby rolfy on Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:46 am

guys if any of you live in or near newcastle, a found place that will set ur tappets for £15!! hardly seems worth gettin dirty when it that cheap. n they done a good job too.
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Postby Max M4X WW on Tue Sep 06, 2005 11:19 am

You dont have to get dirty, Just wear latex gloves. Only takes 30mins!
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Postby mk3phill on Thu Sep 08, 2005 7:02 pm

will try this myself when i get the right tools but there are many different clearences going around,......my fez has about 110,00 on the clock and so can anyone suggest the best clearences for me?????

please :D
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Postby Badgerboy on Thu Sep 08, 2005 7:30 pm

Use the proper ones, they are in the Haynes manual.
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Postby mk3phill on Thu Sep 08, 2005 7:40 pm

ok thx man :D
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Postby Max M4X WW on Thu Sep 08, 2005 8:46 pm

Badgerboy wrote:Use the proper ones, they are in the Haynes manual.

I keep meaning to try haynes and steve's settings back to back but i can never be bothered :lol:
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Postby AGAR on Sat Apr 15, 2006 1:55 pm

Just started doing this today.

Im stuck as to what rocking means exactly - i know its when the two tappers are at the same height, in the guide on here called "Adjusting your tappets" it said its when the left tapper is closing (ie coming up) and the right tapper on the same cylinder in opening (ie about to move down). Is the rocking position where this is a tansistion between the left coming up and just before the right begins to move down?

Its really difficult to tell on mine as the clearances are miles out.
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Postby Max M4X WW on Sat Apr 15, 2006 2:10 pm

The way i do mine is to get number 1 right down, theres usually two 'down' but one is lower.

When one is right down, do 8, then turn it till 2 is down, do 7 etc etc.

Id strongly advise using fiesta_steve's settings of..

Inlet.. 0.10mm
Exhaust.. 0.15mm

I did mine to ford settings for a change the other week and it was slow and very loud. A lot quieter now and a bit quicker.

HTH
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Postby AGAR on Sat Apr 15, 2006 7:48 pm

Max M4X WW wrote:The way i do mine is to get number 1 right down, theres usually two 'down' but one is lower.

When one is right down, do 8, then turn it till 2 is down, do 7 etc etc.

Id strongly advise using fiesta_steve's settings of..

Inlet.. 0.10mm
Exhaust.. 0.15mm

I did mine to ford settings for a change the other week and it was slow and very loud. A lot quieter now and a bit quicker.

HTH


That way seems alot better than the "rocking" way. I'll try those settings too.

Off to do it now 8)
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Postby Max M4X WW on Sat Apr 15, 2006 7:50 pm

After reading cheby's guide i think as long as the two are moving the one you adjust will be in the same place regardless.
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Postby AGAR on Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:47 am

Engine not firing now :x

Please see my post on the other tappet topic.
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Postby al_ on Wed Jan 24, 2007 6:16 am

Max M4X WW wrote:Inlet.. 0.10mm
Exhaust.. 0.15mm

HTH

these are good settings if they're worn (which they will be on any engine over 50k) as it takes into consideration the fact that the feeler can't register the worn out bit where they make contact.
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Postby RS_Rawli on Wed Jan 24, 2007 7:58 am

al_ wrote:
Max M4X WW wrote:Inlet.. 0.10mm
Exhaust.. 0.15mm

HTH

these are good settings if they're worn (which they will be on any engine over 50k) as it takes into consideration the fact that the feeler can't register the worn out bit where they make contact.


think you need to read the guide mate :lol:
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Hello all, i am a fellow hcs rattler

Postby roadwarrior on Mon May 21, 2007 5:48 pm

Hi guys. I am new to this forum, but as my Ford Escort has the old HCS engine, which I abuse horribly,but is stiill going strong at 142K, thought I would share my two bits worth.

All these engines rattle . Its a fact. The engine design is 40-odd years old.Primitive, but reliable. If u want quiet, get a zetec.

You are all correct that the pushrods wear grooves in the rockers which makes setting them more difficult. I have found that the rocker shaft off the 1.3 Endura-E KA engine fits my 1.3 HCS CFI J6 engine. These are often in better nick if u get em from scrap yard.

Grinding them down will quieten things down but you will remove the case hardening. For those who don't know, case hardening is where things which need to be really hard like cam-shafts and rockers etc are heated in an atmosphere of Nitrogen. This gets absorbed into the surface of the metal (don't ask me how) and makes the outer surface REALLY hard. But this is only skin deep, if you grind it down you will get down to the softer inner metal. So FIESTA LX is correct. It is then likely to wear more severley later on.

I am gonna try it though. :-) I can't see that it will do it any harm. What I do is put a few mobile phone magnets around the outer surface of my oil filter to catch any er... shavings.

Also, be careful not to adjust your valve clearences too tight. If too loose, they are noisy, and you will lose power, but that's it. If they are too tight, when the engine is hot or running fast, the valves will not close completely. Sure it will be nice and quiet, but it will burn away at the valve seats and the valves, which is more serious. And if you are really un-lucky it could crack or warp the head cos valves carry heat away into the head through the seats.

If your timing chain "jingles" especially at idle or when u blip throttle it is worth slackening the alternator drive belt a bit. People often run these too tight and it can cause the crank end bearing to wear slightly and make crank move a tiny bit, making chain rattle. I took mine apart and found tensioner was fine and hardly worn... turned out it was the alt that did it.

Anyway, I won't rattle on any more for now... want to see if I can make my camshaft disintergrate... :-0 ;-) tHE HAND OF GOD WILL COME DOWN AND STRIKE THE UNROADWORTHY!!
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