fiestaturbo.com

[jonyb4]

swapped plug lead 1 and 2 around earlier and it started for a brief moment!

so going back to basics, points, gapped and checked, haynes to set the leads right, and checking the timing

if the first 2 cam lobes for cyl 1 are in a perfectly straight upward facing "V" does that depict TDC?

cant use timing marks for the cam as its using a vernier and it has none

[rsturbonutter]

You wouldn't want an 8o fella most engines optimum operating temp is 80 plus

[jonyb4]

IT LIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIVES!!

wooo so happy

[Ratspeed]

Video or it didnt happen

[jonyb4]

here we are



a few niggles to sort out like the timing advance, exhaust leak and what the knocking noise is coming from


seems i was right about the cam lobes being in a V to make tdc

but i had to remove the vernier pulley, and refit the old engines one to get the cam set, thanks to the keywayed cam pulley

after that swapped the vernier back on and set the timing, new spark plugs were fitted and then while the other half turned the key i slowly turned the dizzy to find the right spot for it to start, it was coughing and trying and finally roared to life





vintage, the factors i use found them at the back, old last stock



setting the timing, pulley off



setting using the old engines standard pulley



gap set to 0.6mm, copper greased and the lead caps fixed on

[AW3K]

looking good mate ,
some right work in this
still not seen the bloke with the recaros but i will do

Andy

[knuckles]

well done getting it going !

have you drove this auto monster yet ?

[jonyb4]

cheers andy

cheers clark, means alot, specially after the 2 month fight with it

not yet no, tempted to take it around the block to see if its all ok in the gearbox area, and to fill the torque converter back with fluid as it lost it all when it was removed



but

im afraid the bottom end might be gone on this engine, its making some horrid noises when you rev it, if so the guy who sold us it is a horrible horrible man, it sounds like its already half way toward death, he would have known this before selling it

or it could be something just loose, hard to tell, the starter isnt as tight as it can be as the bulbs are begining to round off but after bracing the starter the noise continues


how do i check the bottom end?

got the idea of taking the sump off and checking for play in each rod, and or removing the end caps and seeing how "meaty" the shims are, or even if the cap bolts are tight or not


any help with this will go far, we have plenty of spares, rods, pistons even a spare crank!
will buy new shims if needed

[knuckles]

how do i check the bottom end?

old skool way of doing it is either with a long tube placed on different places on the block and put your ear to it whilst its running

[Ratspeed]

how do i check the bottom end?

old skool way of doing it is either with a long tube placed on different places on the block and put your ear to it whilst its running

i always use this method, but use a really loooong flat head screwdriver and put the handle to my ear

Definately works

[jonyb4]

yea i got one of them , used it the other week to find my aunts focus had a fooked pas pump, only 6 years old too, common apperantly

ill get a vid up when the missus is done with the laptop... so never lol

[Ratspeed]

yea i got one of them , used it the other week to find my aunts focus had a fooked pas pump, only 6 years old too, common apperantly

ill get a vid up when the missus is done with the laptop... so never lol

Watchin pawn huh? Bevs the same.......

[jonyb4]

nah deleting fb pics i put up of her, "im so humiliated" she said... wtf lol its her face just general around the house pics women

[jonyb4]

heres the video, sucker wouldnt start for a moment

[jonyb4]

well i look an complete numpty, but you can hear the noise, it gets faster/louder the faster the engine revs, the exhaust is blowing a tad, trying to find a o ring for the bottom of the manifold, and the ignition timing isnt set up yet probably why it takes a while to start

[jonyb4]

managed to get the ignition advance set up earlier, turns out i was looking at the wrong crank marker!

so begs to question, which is the one you time the timing belt up with?!

is it this? (timing light was for this one atleast)



or is it this one? (ive done the cam belt to this one)




apart form how it runs, it doesnt matter really as a forum member pointed out the pinto is a Non interference engine, so i wont be bending any valves either way


filled the gearbox with automatic transmission fluid and attempted a shakedown around the lane, still didnt manage to fill the gearbox though, shall get more tomorrow

after it gingerly drove out the garage, seen a trail of red fluid, the cooler under the rad for the gearbox fluid was leaking badly, so clamped the previous owners bodge back up and stopped the leak, explains where my fluid has gone

anyway it doesnt hold revs well, and sometimes loses it all together and cuts out, something is deffo up

it sounds better but still has that knocking when its revved


next mission is to take the starter off, check inside the bell housing for any obstructions, see if its causing the noise, namely the bellhousing plate, after that remove the sump, somehow since i cant lift the engine out anymore and the crossmember is in the way

and it will need to be swapped as we noticed this sump is different to the other engine, drain plug is on the starter side and theres a buldge stopping the starter fitting flush, i knocked that in a bit with a mallet, so could cause

and then check the bottom end

[filtra]

Timing mark is on alternator side. IIRC 8deg advance on these engines.

If your engine sounds like it's knocking, make sure its nothing obvious i.e. things flapping around. Otherwise, chances are its knocking. I went to see a mint sierra once that had been stood for years and started to knock when it was started up again.

[MK2 Jamie]

In technical terms it sounds like the bottom end is knocking its funlumps off.

[jonyb4]

topped the rest of the gearbox up with fluid, not 100% full, but bang in the middle of the low and high marks

so it drives now


engine is beginning to sound better off also, dont know how, revs alright, slight knock now and then, just need to inspect it

[jonyb4]

i realised yesterday that my dad didnt tighten the nuts on the electrical connections on the dizzy, the wires were just wiggling around, which made it run quite bad, so ive sorted that and its much better

took it for a little shakedown round the park and back and it went well, got home and i realised i had left my mobile ont he roof!, luck it was still there as it didnt go far/fast


need to swap the carb to the old one now as this one is missing the auto choke and is leaking fuel from the side like no tomorrow, not helping how it runs at all!

i also painted the calipers gold after raising it on 4 stands with all the wheels off




today i welded a pair of brackets to support a fiesta zetec fan i had lieing around for years, works a treat after giving it some 12V supply, will wire that in and after getting a fan switch plumbed in, it will have been converted to electric fan

will but some paint on these soon

[jonyb4]

sorry for them crappy pics, heres a pair of better ones





once i get a fan switch kit it will be wired up good, its been earthed in this pic

[andymac]

Are you going to use a physical switch or a temperature switch ? If temp switch then I suggest you relay it out so you're putting less current through the switch.

[jonyb4]

which relay would i need?

[jayrs]

a 4 pin headlight relay will be ok

[jonyb4]

think id need more intel to wire that in

[jayrs]

na, should be a case of a perm live, a switched live, feed to fan, and a earth mate

[jonyb4]

the carb that come with this engine was leaking like a frightened school boy, so swapped it back to the original that come with the car, and it runs like utter dog s**t now

but atleast the leak had stopped, but i think its all clogged up from being stood, as if you rev it it just struggles and bogs down, think the jets need flushing out properly, so ill either strip that carb down, or swap it back to the one that come with this engine, but with the new gaskets, as that run fine tbh



today i fitted the nice new shock absorber to the O/S/R

bolt located here by a hunch


had to lower the car back on its wheel though, so the weight would prevent the shaft from turning

after some WD-40 and a littler hammertime, the old shock bolt come out nicely, and you can see the difference, and as to why were replacing it






comparison





back on with added coppergrease, not worried about the old nut and old on the bottom, it was very thick steel and wasnt even rusted up internally





i enjoy working on this car, its just so simply, easy, and rewarding to work on, i wish more needed replacing in a way, might nag the old man to renew the brake pads and discs, they're not at the end of they're life but still have bit of a lip


all for now

[jayrs]

sounds like the carb is set wrong or its just manked up, check the timing too.

you might wanna change them rear ARB bushes too mate, they look a bit past there best

[jonyb4]

yea i did spot them, seem to be letting the bar cut the corner a bit

tbh im suprised it has one, didnt think they worked on a live axle

once its road worthy it will be properly serviced, might even treat it to polybushes


and on the topic of it running, i cant honestly say its got much fuel in it, so im not doing anything else untill it has more in it

but before i figured that out i swapped it back to the new engines original carb and refit the airbox

[jayrs]

although ive looked throught her thread as its being updated, i cant recall seeing and save me looking back, does it have a fuel filter on it? if not, fit one mate, prob a load of mank in the tank, and you want that blocking the jets

[jonyb4]

yea have one ill put it in when i top the fuel up, hard to believe they didnt have a built in filter!

[andymac]

I'll do you a diagram tomorrow, it's a piece of piss - honestly.

[jonyb4]

for the filter? yea i know just fit it inline to the fuel pipe for the carb, my old man did fit it earlier, but to the return pipe llama

[jayrs]

i know mate, none of them came with them, although there peanuts, or were, like 50p for a small plastic one that fits inline, i got one somewhere still im sure, mind you got got lots of bits and bobs, but again, somewhere

[andymac]

A couple of quid now Jay, I used one as a temp breather at one point when I have a vac leak.

Jony, see attachment.

Typical fan current draw is 8-12amps however some draw much more on startup (you may want to swap the fuse for a 20 or even 30 amp item if it keeps popping).

In this diagram, one side of the fan is permanently live as is one leg of the relay coil. Basic idea is that you switch negative to the relay using the fan switch which closes the relay and turns on power to the fan.

The relay is leaf switch that's pushed open by a spring, when you put current across pins 85 & 86 it turns on an electromagnetic coil that pulls the switch shut (shorts contacts 30 & 87 on the relay).

HTH

PS you can use the same principle for high output headlights too, except then you've got a permanent negative onto the relay and are switching live onto the bulb. Or you can buy a ready made loom off of me for a few quid.

PPS You can add multiple fan switches in parallel; so you can have manual control if you want as well as the thermostatic switch.