fiestaturbo.com

[b0yracer]

good stuff adjust the valve clearances befor you fit the had back on, or atleast before you fit the carb/inlet otherwise you need a very short spanner

[jonyb4]

any advice on how to do them?

[b0yracer]

you can adjust them on the bench, in a way its alot easier, because you can actually see that the valves are open

valves open valves to adjust
1ex and 4in 6in and 7ex
6in and 7ex 1ex and 4in
2in and 5ex 3ex and 8in
3ex and 8in 2in and 5ex

inlet is 0.20mm exhaust is 0.25mm

you want to just feel the gauge touching as it slides between lobe and follower i wouldnt say feeling it nipp, you want to be able to slide the feeler gauge in with out forcing it or tugging on it to get it back out

i would also once you think youve done them wind the cam round a couple of times and then recheck them

and just watch as youre locking off the 2 locking nuts (that your not actually adjusting the gap again as your nipping them together)

[jonyb4]

ok i think i get you

so just have a lobe face away from the follower and just set the gap to 0.20mm/0.25mm?

[jonyb4]

head is on

how the hell do i time this thing up?! haha

master confusion to me, haynes wasnt much help, cant get the crank, aux to meet the teeth on the cam


so i fitted it slightly slack on the cam and surprise surprise after 1 full rev of the cranik the cam is way out


cant i just put a screw driver down the cylinder 1 spark plug hole like on a zetec?... to find TDC that is



any advice guys?

[b0yracer]

firing order is 1342, timing wants to be 8 degrees BTDC,

take the cam belt off the top/cam pulley

look at the bottom pulley there is a series of marks/grooves, the biggest groove is TDC, line this up with the mark/pointer which is fixed (just under bottom hose area i think) youll see it though) now take number 1 plug out and check that the piston is at the top, because these engines can be 180 degrees out.

go to dizzy take off the cap rotor arm needs to be pointing to where number 1 plug lead fits, to adjust this if its wrong, loosen the 13mm bolt next to the dizzy and turn dizzy body untill it is in place (some dizzys do have a groove in the dizzy body for number 1)
notice the wheel which is nearest the dizzy which the cam belt fits to will turn, be carefull to keep this in place when it comes to refitting the belt or youll move the dizzy.

now the cam behind the cam wheel you should have a plate which went onits keyed so it only goes on one way, it also has a pointer on it, look through your cam wheel you will see this pointer, turn the cam pully (still without the belt on) so the pointer is at the bottom pointing up, now you should see the pointer pointing to a dimple/mark on the head behind it.

now with out disturbing any of these marks and with(obviously) the cam tensioner loose/out of the way carefully fit the belt adjust the tensioner

mark the TDC pointer and 8 with white tipex (the marks on bottom pulley go up in 2s, 1st mark is TDC then 2 4 6 8 10 12 )
plug a timing strobe light in line with number 1 plug lead, start the car it will start but may run a bit strange as its only TDC, point the strobe light to bottom pully turn the dizzy untill 8 lines up with the pointer

good luck. did you get the valve clearances set ok

[b0yracer]

see your on oldskoolford too i was going to suggest that to you, but youve found it yourself

ive been a member on there for years i left once but rejoined again used it loads for my escort and cortina

[jonyb4]

uh was that you that just commented lol?

[jonyb4]

ugh god...

this engine was lovely and simply till now lol

i have no timing light, nor know anyone with one, and thats basicly how i done things last night but the cam wouldn't line up with the teeth, after setting the other 2 pullies up

and yea clearances were all checked and rechecked

[b0yracer]

take the belt off (dont have to remove bottom pulley) get the cam belt tensioner right out of the way too so its not disturbing the belt, just let the belt off all the teeth, line bottom pulley timing marks up, then line dizzy up, then the cam pulley with the pointer

now starting at the bottom fitt the belt, then fit it on to dizzy wheel then over the cam wheel leaving the slack down the tensioner side

i cant really get it in to words any better, though i do know what you mean, i had to redo one for some one once that had the belt a tooth out because same as you they couldnt get the belt on and marks to line up

just persivere try a few times it will go on in place

strobe lights are cheap on ebay, id lend you mine but your too far away

ps if you really get the belt on bottom pulley well as youre fitting it on dizzy and cam wheel you can maybe very slightly move them to get the belt on, i mean very very slightly

all i can say is i do know what youre saying and it will go on believe me good luck

[jonyb4]

Update

got each of the tappets fitted and adjusted to 0.025mm gap on the exhaust, 0.020mm on the inlet




fitting the thermostat





cleaned the bolts up




fitted the head and gasket, the 10 bolts in place ready for torquing sequence






cam cover gasket




cam cover mucky old bolts...




... were given a new lease of life






fitted




new exhaust gaskets




on... new air ratchet makes such light work of nuts and bolts and will set them all to 50lbs/ft too




inlet gasket... notice the water inlet pipe between port 2 and 3?
in my mind its bad design to have water flowing so close to the inlet ports, if a leak happened it could destroy con rods letting water int he chambers




done for last night, got in at 1AM!




these arrived today, handy quick air line couplings









timed up and all together minus the air box





slight snag, i dont have a clue about distributors, nor how to time them up

im getting spark, but i dont know if its firing at the right time.. doesnt help that the dizzy is loose and turns by hand!

can any one give advice?

i know its fueling, plus ive been pouring petrol down the carb, only managed 1 hickup from it

[b0yracer]

it will start if all is set correctly to TDC but it will run rough as TDC is not the correct setting, so if it is all set to the marks i talked about earlier maybe theres a problem some where else

you can set the timing with a test lamp but im not sure how accurate it is

line up on the main pulley the 8 degree mark with the TDC pointer, take the + and - coil wires off, connect a test lamp inline with you coil wires (still not attatched to the coil) turn your ignition on, turn the dizzy until the light comes on, nip the dizzy up, should be then set roughly to 8 BTDC

i only ever tried this once just to see if it worked (ie lit the light up) i cant remember if it was exact set up as i will have also set it with my strobe light

i read it in a old fix it your self car magazine

but from what your saying im geussing either your dizzy is way out or youve got another seperate problem, providing you got the belt on with all 3 TDC/timing marks lined up

[jonyb4]

well it woudlnt start before i took the head off, so the last owners messed something up, but the dizzy is loose, and also ive timed it up slightly out as like i said i couldnt get the teeth to match, so the cam is a tooth out

ill do it again but set to 8 BTDC, thats 4 markings on the pulley yea?

[b0yracer]

yea thats right 4 marks in, but you really must get the belt on a tooth out is not good it will go on , how about taking the dizzy out it will turn (the rotar arm) slightly as it pulls out, so take note of how far and which way it turns, as it will turn back the other way when you refit it, also be careful the dizzy has some sort of plunger/rod on the end sometimes it comes out with the dizzy, sometimes it stays in the motor

now with the dizzy out try fitting the belt concentrating on lining up bottom pulley and cam pulley timing marks, then try fitting the dizzy and turn it back to number 1 (where number 1 plug lead will go on the cap)

[jonyb4]

ugh i hate that the guy has f**cked about with the dizzy as its a mile out and i have no idea where it needs to be (well i do but ya know )

almost got it running, it was trying to start

im having someone turn the key, and im twisting the dizzy, but by the time its tried to stat ive already moved the dizzy futher! agh

will re time the belt, get it closer to starting by turning the dizzy and then get my hands on a timing light to get it spot on, after that we will buy a electronic trigger for the dizzy, i dont like the mechanical one in it, they need gapping annually
and the electronic kit only costs £22

[EUFez]

The colour on that Mk1 is awesome!

Good progress mate. You've come a long way from the Mk4 days. You live and learn!

[jonyb4]

haha good old mk4, that was a valuable learning curve for me, without it id not have my patience, attention to detail or better understanding, and ofcourse know the things not to do!

cheers james, kind words

update on both to come!

[jonyb4]

Pictures of the paint job, its not 100% yet, bumpers are still being done, and its not been buffed up yet either

but i think you'll agree with me the colour is stunning and its so much better then before!

pics can dot he talking

some nice ones of the pair together
notice the RS splitter on the front

[rsturbonutter]

Is that a rs/xr bumper on your floor fella and do you want to sell it

[jonyb4]

haha random!

umm well have the pair of them, not sure, what would you offer for it?

2 lamps are knackered, 1 fog 1 driver

[rsturbonutter]

I am alright for the fogs but if you want to sell complete no dramas name a price fella just don't take the michael. My bumper is well past it and i don't really want to put a crappy bumper on when I spray it shortly. Could come and pick it up one day next week if thats ok, going to be flat out this weekend otherwise I would do it then

[b0yracer]

your dads cars looking good

[jonyb4]

umm not sure, not 100% i want to sell it tbh

[rsturbonutter]

Well let me know in the next week or so as it will be getting painted then

[jonyb4]

after days of trying to start this engine, im starting to believe it is knackered...


simply will not start

started with being an ignition timing issue, now thats all set up lovely and accurate as possible without it actually running to use the strobe
its not helped, even thought it might be a fuse problem, so had cleaned each terminal and fuse up




then i figured fuel wasnt reaching the cylinders, so i then took the carb off, checked it used compressed air to clean the jets etc, refitted with cleaned and new gaskets

still wont start


















cleaned up using my new air belt sander, can also see my new disc cutter which ill need for sorting the fiesta

gaskets on


so i then had an urge to remove the exhaust manifold and try it. so then it would pop and blow flames, seem as if it wants to start but never actually achieve it

so that passes the exhaust being blocked like i figured at first



i then took the cam cover off, and saw this:
very light brown oil that was only put in fresh 2 days ago...





(car is jacked up on the drivers hence the oil swaying)



now its hardly meant to be that colour!

i serviced my fiesta 2 months ago and thats still got golden oil :?


i presume this is water mixing and if it was running after a while it would turn white and mayonnaise like



so its starting to look grim for this poor pinto!

me and the old man are going to have a capri clued mate roudn to give a second opinion, but we are talking about what engine is going to be replacing this, another pinto? zetec? I4 8v? CVH?


any advice recommendation ors even if you know of an engine for sale, please let me know!

[b0yracer]

was going to start by saying it wont be a fuse, since its actually turning over and trying to fire

then was going to comment on your carb it looks very clean so cant see that being a problem, plus it would fire up with a slightly knackered carb but just wouldnt run right

youre right no the oil shouldnt be that colour, your heads cracked, it only needs a small hair line crack

options are imo anyway

1, head off take it to a engineering place and ask them to test it this costs about £30
if it comes back confirmed knackered you could just buy another head for your pinto

2, another pinto pref a 2.0 but a 1.6 would also go straight in using your accillories

3, v6 2.8 injection, youd need all the accsesories including gear box prop and fuel tank

4, zetec again youll need all the accsesories dont know what these are for this conversion

5, duratec again with accsesories not sure what they are

cheapest is pinto either head or full motor

pm a man called howierpm on oldskool ford he knows loads about what you need for zetec rear wheel drive conversion
he might even have a pinto or zetec for sale but he can deffinately give you loads of good advice

[andymac]

Bad luck pal, still, not the end of the world and not that bad to sort

[Turboboy67]

Only one engine for me to go in one of these, 2.9 24v V6 Cosworth out of a Scorpio

200+ bhp and lots of torque as standard.

Buy a complete car like this;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-FORD-SCO ... 46010de82d

So you know it's running and the engine is good before starting, it also has the majority of things on it you need to do the conversion .

Plenty of info around on the conversion as well.

[b0yracer]

Only one engine for me to go in one of these, 2.9 24v V6 Cosworth out of a Scorpio

200+ bhp and lots of torque as standard,

Buy a complete car like this;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-FORD-SCO ... 46010de82d

So you know its running and the engine is good before starting, it also has the majority of things on it you need on it to do the conversion .

Plenty of info around on the conversion as well

yes good call i cant belive i forgot about this one

or standard cossie from a sierra

[jonyb4]

thats an option!

be sa shame to brake such a well quipped car for the engine

will consider things

[andymac]

Shaun, fantastic call. Theres a 306 with ice racer kit runs a modded version of that engine goes rallying. Most amazing noise, can hear it literally a mile off. Jon, he's right, that'd be brilliant as a conversion.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

[jonyb4]

dont think it will happen hough, he doesnt want to spend that sorta money on it, i know most of that could be regained from breaking it

really like that scorpio tho, very nice car to use as a daily or family car

[andymac]

Not with the cost of fuel these days it won't be.

[jonyb4]

ha no your right

[jonyb4]

come home from holiday to be greeted by these pair of lovelys

number 1 is in bits, a 205 block and missing its bottom end, and a loose head









the other is a 2.0 non 205 block, has a selection of mods done to it and is ready to go, just needs freeing up after a years sitting









fast road cam, twin 40's i believe, 8mm silicone leads, and ported head (again im not 100% on that)



work will start soon then

fair play tot he old man for finding them, locally for £100, with tons of spares for the 205